Simple RidgeRunner Suspension Mod for Easy Spindrift Install/Removal

Here's an easy way to modify the RR suspension so that it is easy to install or remove a Spindrift Bridge Sock.

Simply replace the Apex Buckle between the suspension line and the fixed-eye loops on the dog bones with a full-size Dutch Biner. That way you can disconnect the dog bones quickly and easily.

Note: The full size Dutch Biners are only available at Jacks R Better. The biners on Dutch's site are only for ridge lines.

Good idea!

Cheers

Very nice!

Yep, I did this about a month back. Great mod! :thumbup:

http://www.hammockforums.net/forum/s...ht=dutch+biner

I recently decided to remove the apex buckle (dremmel tool) and replaced it with a Dutch biner. For a tiny weight gain, I think this would be a much easier option for those who want to rig the spindrift on the fly AND it allows a user to remove the webbing should they get wet, dirty, etc.

HC

thank you so much for posting this.i have been trying to come up with a zipper mod so i wouldnt have to sleep with a roof over me unless i needed it.i think your way is better,and im going to use it.happy hanging.:)

I like it, definitely would make it easier. What doe Dutch rate that biner at for weight limit?

Nice bit of rigging, simplicity.

David

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Originally Posted by Yukon

I like it, definitely would make it easier. What doe Dutch rate that biner at for weight limit?

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400 lbs.

http://www.jacksrbetter.com/shop/dutch-biners/

just be careful with the two suspension lines - biners are designed to be loaded on-axis, and it could be fairly easy for this configuration to become cross-loaded in a way that does not correctly bear your weight.

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Originally Posted by Mustardman

just be careful with the two suspension lines - biners are designed to be loaded on-axis, and it could be fairly easy for this configuration to become cross-loaded in a way that does not correctly bear your weight.

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This is what I was thinking, hence the design of Brandon's original piece. I could see a failure happening...

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Originally Posted by Mustardman

just be careful with the two suspension lines - biners are designed to be loaded on-axis, and it could be fairly easy for this configuration to become cross-loaded in a way that does not correctly bear your weight.

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I guess I'm just thick but I don't quite understand that statement. Specifically, I don't understand what "loaded on axis" means and/or "cross-loaded".

It seems quite simple to me....I'm having a hard time figuring how you could screw it up.

Can you describe the problem in some other way? I have a couple of those biners and am considering making the mod.

Thanks, Miguel

Generally, I think the weight rating is meant for the load in a straight line end to end. With that setup it introduces two different loads going in two different directions which pulls the biner in ways it wasnt quite meant for. Doesnt mean it wont work, but the weight rating just wont be exact anymore.

I was thinking maybe have a biner on the end of each line and hook them on the fixed end of a whoopie?

To expand on Ferret's explanation - a biner is designed to take forces pulling straight along the long direction, but there are lots of ways this setup could pull in other directions. The most worrisome in my eyes is the chance for things to shift around while the hammock is not loaded. A little wind whipping the suspension lines around, and they could easily end up pulling on a weird direction and doing something like pulling sideways on the thinner section of the metal.

This is one of the most common types of failure for rock climbers - if you do a google image search for "cross load carabiner", you get some nice images on the first page of biners that broke because they were'nt loaded correctly.


Again, I'm not saying it won't work - I am warning you to be careful about it.

How about using soft shackles made out of Amsteel instead of the biner? That would solve the cross-load issue. What do you think of that solution?

I've used the Dutch Biner in this fashion for about a month now with zero fears. The inside of the Biner is rather slim so it channels both of the amsteel lines longways vs a wider area that would allow for more sideways pull. I've also attached the biner using a larkshead which transfers the pull/force outside of the Biner... This is handy for attaching whoopies, but sort of recreates the problem of extra steps in attaching the spindrift.

I'm still using it... But in the end I found an $85 solution. A 2nd RR - netless.

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Originally Posted by HobieCat

I've used the Dutch Biner in this fashion for about a month now with zero fears. The inside of the Biner is rather slim so it channels both of the amsteel lines longways vs a wider area that would allow for more sideways pull. I've also attached the biner using a larkshead which transfers the pull/force outside of the Biner... This is handy for attaching whoopies, but sort of recreates the problem of extra steps in attaching the spindrift.

I'm still using it... But in the end I found an $85 solution. A 2nd RR - netless.

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yes, i think using a girth hitch/LH to attach the dogbones to the biner and to attach suspension to the biner as well would help keep the dogbones and suspension attached where they should be(at the ends) lessening the chance of crossloading.

i think mustardman is correct, you'll want to make sure crossloading does not occur, if things are left to slide around freely that could indeed happen.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Mustardman

To expand on Ferret's explanation - a biner is designed to take forces pulling straight along the long direction, but there are lots of ways this setup could pull in other directions. The most worrisome in my eyes is the chance for things to shift around while the hammock is not loaded. A little wind whipping the suspension lines around, and they could easily end up pulling on a weird direction and doing something like pulling sideways on the thinner section of the metal.

This is one of the most common types of failure for rock climbers - if you do a google image search for "cross load carabiner", you get some nice images on the first page of biners that broke because they were'nt loaded correctly.


Again, I'm not saying it won't work - I am warning you to be careful about it.

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thanks for the heads up.

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Originally Posted by ferret

Generally, I think the weight rating is meant for the load in a straight line end to end. With that setup it introduces two different loads going in two different directions which pulls the biner in ways it wasnt quite meant for. Doesnt mean it wont work, but the weight rating just wont be exact anymore.

I was thinking maybe have a biner on the end of each line and hook them on the fixed end of a whoopie?

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would it get rid of this risk if the loops were wrapped together or sewn together.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Miguel

I guess I'm just thick but I don't quite understand that statement. Specifically, I don't understand what "loaded on axis" means and/or "cross-loaded".

It seems quite simple to me....I'm having a hard time figuring how you could screw it up.

Can you describe the problem in some other way? I have a couple of those biners and am considering making the mod.

Thanks, Miguel

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Thanks to all for the explanations...much clearer now. :)

Miguel

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Mustardman

To expand on Ferret's explanation - a biner is designed to take forces pulling straight along the long direction, but there are lots of ways this setup could pull in other directions. The most worrisome in my eyes is the chance for things to shift around while the hammock is not loaded. A little wind whipping the suspension lines around, and they could easily end up pulling on a weird direction and doing something like pulling sideways on the thinner section of the metal.

This is one of the most common types of failure for rock climbers - if you do a google image search for "cross load carabiner", you get some nice images on the first page of biners that broke because they were'nt loaded correctly.


Again, I'm not saying it won't work - I am warning you to be careful about it.

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If there are any other knuckleheads out there that are still confused about this...Mustardman's suggestion of the Google "cross load carabiner" search will make it crystal clear. I already knew this but apparently didn't know the correct terminology for it.

Thanks Mustardman. Miguel

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Originally Posted by hairbear

would it get rid of this risk if the loops were wrapped together or sewn together.

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you could just girth hitch them together as one like they are on the apex buckle. but i think even girth hitched independently and then tightened should keep them from moving, if you sewed them together you would negate the purpose of using the biner in the first place which is having them easy to take apart for sock install

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Originally Posted by Yukon

I like it, definitely would make it easier. What doe Dutch rate that biner at for weight limit?

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1000 pounds

According to an Oregon Fire Department testing of Carabiners, a 3-way load on a 10,000lb rated carabiner broke when loaded to 4700lbs.

Hi folks, I have been reading this forum for a while now, but I haven't posted yet. This is my first post :) There is a wealth of information here which I have greatly benefited from! Thank you to everyone who has posted over the years. I love that some of my favorite gear suppliers are here as well such as Dutchware and Warbonnet. I also am a big fan of Shug's videos :D

I know this is an older thread, but I was wondering how the Dutch biner mod to quicken the assembly of the Spindrift has held up ? Any failures ? I have a Spindrift in the mail and on the way to me so I have been brainstorming how I want to install it on my RR. I was thinking that this Dutch Biner mod might do just the trick. Have you found that the Larks head is essential ? Sounds like it would be a much safer option. Also, is installing and removing an under quilt (I have a new Lynx Four season that I am dying to try out) pretty straight forward with the Sprindrift installed ? Thanks ahead of time! -Lochlainn

Or you could use these from Dutch, Bridge Hammock Whoopie Hooks.

http://www.dutchwaregear.com/bridge-...ooks-pair.html