Single end Locked Brummel

Many times I need to make a locked brummel eye splice with bury using only a single end of the rope. Usually this is necessary when I want the eye splice but do not know the exact total length of rope needed. I want to make the eye splice with the locked brummel and bury, pull it tight and then pull the rope off the spool and determine the total length needed against the actual site use. Previously I have been forced to do either:

1. use a plain bury splice with stitching, or
2. use more rope than really needed and discard the excess. This option really hurts at the price per foot for good dyneema rope.

Following the directions that Samson Ropes has, it is necessary that both ends of the rope be available to make the splice.

New England Ropes has a method for making a locked brummel splice using only one end of the rope. I have tried this method several times. Maybe on large diameter rope it works, but for the small diameter rope that we use for hammocking, 1/8" and less, I have found it impossible to undo the pull through as in step #8 in the linked page. I usually end up totally destroying the strands at the pull through in trying to undo the pull through.

In going through TeeDee's copy of Brion Toss's book on working rope, book 5, Basic Braided Splices, I found his "McDonald Brummel" splice. The McDonald Brummel splice is a method for making a locked brummel using a single end of the rope. The McDonald Brummel splice is actually a chain of locked brummels, one right after another.

What I find exciting about the McDonald Brummel isn't the locked brummel itself, but their method of making the locked brummel. It uses only one end of the rope.

It is much easier and faster than the method that New England Ropes describes. It does involve inserting the rope through itself and pulling through as described by New England Ropes, but then you do not have to undo it and pull the rope back out from itself.

This method allows me to make a locked brummel with bury eye splice quickly and easily using just one end of the rope. I can then pull only what is needed off the spool.

I have emailed Brion Toss for permission to scan the pages from his book and post here. I received a reply and they said that Brion was deep in a rigging job in Florida and would not be able to reply for some time. They had sent my request to their lawyer also.

If they give me permission I will scan and post the pages.

If they say no, then I will do the McDonald splice step by step and using the scanner, make images for posting. I think scanning their illustrations would be the better option since the illustrations very clearly depict what you are doing. Their illustrations would be much better for that than images from either the scanner or even a digital camera since it is hard to distinguish one part of the rope from another part in such images.

For those that have the book and want to learn to do the McDonald Brummel, it is listed in the table of contents.

Okay - we don't really have to wait.

Oldgringo found an illustration of the McDonald Splice here. Scroll down to post #40.

Brion Toss published his book containing the McDonald Splice in Feb. 2004 and the post in the above link was done on 7-12-2008. I'm kind of disappointed in the poster in that they do not give explicit credit to Brion Toss for previously publishing the Splice.

Brion actually gives credit to his illustrator, Margie McDonald, for developing the splice and names it after her. That's class.

I still think the drawings done by Margie McDonald for Brion Toss are better at illustrating the splice. It is easier to discern different parts of the rope and where the eye loop gets tucked in photo #4 of the post.

If Brion gives me permission, I will still scan and put the scans in the gallery and post them here.

I have been looking for a way to makea peice of line wiht a locked brummel on each end. I was able to do it by pulling the one brummel through but it was tough. This should make it easier.

Good stuff TF.... The learning never ends.

This Video is a little long (two or three parts) but actually shows a very clear step by step version of what you're talking about, I believe. I had found this on the Colligo Marine website while looking for info about soft shackles, and tossed it in my bookmarks (they are actually embedded on the Colligo Marine site as sidebar tutorials) but sorta forgot about it. When I first started splicing (I say that like it wasn't just a month ago) I tried one, but it didn't look as nice as the brummel using both ends pulled through. Then again, I think it was the second splice I ever tried, so that may have had something to do with it. ;)

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by silentorpheus

This Video is a little long (two or three parts) but actually shows a very clear step by step version of what you're talking about, I believe. I had found this on the Colligo Marine website while looking for info about soft shackles, and tossed it in my bookmarks (they are actually embedded on the Colligo Marine site as sidebar tutorials) but sorta forgot about it. When I first started splicing (I say that like it wasn't just a month ago) I tried one, but it didn't look as nice as the brummel using both ends pulled through. Then again, I think it was the second splice I ever tried, so that may have had something to do with it. ;)

---

Yes - that's the method.

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by TiredFeet

New England Ropes has a method for making a locked brummel splice using only one end of the rope. I have tried this method several times. Maybe on large diameter rope it works, but for the small diameter rope that we use for hammocking, 1/8" and less, I have found it impossible to undo the pull through as in step #8 in the linked page. I usually end up totally destroying the strands at the pull through in trying to undo the pull through.

---

Trying this method with dynaglide I had the same problem, but solved it by putting a loop of heavy thread through each of the loops before I turned them inside out. It made it easier to pull just the strands needed to turn the loops right side out again.

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by WV

Trying this method with dynaglide I had the same problem, but solved it by putting a loop of heavy thread through each of the loops before I turned them inside out. It made it easier to pull just the strands needed to turn the loops right side out again.

---

Thanks, that solves the problem, but then using the McDonald method avoids the problem altogether. :D

Any developments on being able to post the mcdonald brummel TiredFeet?
Tom
AND
is this the title?
The Complete Rigger's Apprentice: Tools and Techniques for Modern and Traditional Rigging

DUH! I see it
Book 5, - Working Rope - Basic Braided Splices

as stated above in your post....
Tom

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by TOB9595

Any developments on being able to post the mcdonald brummel TiredFeet?
Tom
AND
is this the title?
The Complete Rigger's Apprentice: Tools and Techniques for Modern and Traditional Rigging

---

Nope. Since links were posted to 2 videos, I haven't pursued the matter. Don't know if my request was just lost by Brion or, more probably, the spam filter shoved it into the spam folder and it got deleted.

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by silentorpheus

This Video is a little long (two or three parts) but actually shows a very clear step by step version of what you're talking about, I believe. I had found this on the Colligo Marine website while looking for info about soft shackles, and tossed it in my bookmarks (they are actually embedded on the Colligo Marine site as sidebar tutorials) but sorta forgot about it. When I first started splicing (I say that like it wasn't just a month ago) I tried one, but it didn't look as nice as the brummel using both ends pulled through. Then again, I think it was the second splice I ever tried, so that may have had something to do with it. ;)

---

When I click that link, I get "this video has been removed by the user"?

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by BillyBob58

When I click that link, I get "this video has been removed by the user"?

---

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by silentorpheus

(they are actually embedded on the Colligo Marine site as sidebar tutorials)

---

They're still working on Colligo Marines website. Right side halfway down "how to videos" Looks interesting. http://www.colligomarine.com/

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by TwoShoes

They're still working on Colligo Marines website. Right side halfway down "how to videos" Looks interesting. http://www.colligomarine.com/

---

Yes - the video titled "Modified Brummel Splice, Part 1" shows how to do the McDonald single end Brummel splice.

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by TwoShoes

They're still working on Colligo Marines website. Right side halfway down "how to videos" Looks interesting. http://www.colligomarine.com/

---

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by TiredFeet

Yes - the video titled "Modified Brummel Splice, Part 1" shows how to do the McDonald single end Brummel splice.

---

That works great videos!

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by BillyBob58

That works great videos!

---

Yes, they are...well worth watching, even if you never anticipate using the McDonald.:) I will be watching the rest of the Colligo Marine vids, just because they are so well done and informative.

Hah! I just made one of these suckers w/1.75mm Lash It...not something I want to do often, but it can be done.

Just found this link today:

http://www.neropes.com/SPL_12Strand_...ceBrummel.aspx

It creates a single-ended locked Brummel, much as the McDonald. The difference, per the illustrations, is NOT having to push a full-size eye loop through the little 'football' opening.

I haven't tried it yet (will this evening), but I expect it to work better in smaller cord like Lash- / Zing-it.

Good luck!

Mark

Yep, that's the same link as in the first post.

The trick to using the NE Ropes method is to use a small piece of whipping twine to pull the line back though itself. It's a little finnicky, but nothing that can't be done.

If you're making a sling with an eye on each end...
Another method that works great in 7/64" and 1/8" amsteel as well as vectran lines is to push the eye on the other end of the line through just as you would the tail. It hurts nothing to enlarge the opening a little and when splicing larger line, drastically opening the line is required.

but my question is WHY??

Locked Brummels are not required. You can use a straight bury or a regular brummel, both of which are stronger. Locked Brummels are WEAKER than the other splicing methods. Some may disagree on how much weaker, but no one with any experience will say they are as strong or stronger.

The reason for locking the brummel is to prevent the splice from working loose under low load conditions. The same thing can be done with a little whipping twine, sewing thread, or dental floss. Either stitch the bury for a couple passes or whip the beginning of the bury. Both methods keep the splice from working loose under low load.

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by nacra533

The trick to using the NE Ropes method is to use a small piece of whipping twine to pull the line back though itself. It's a little finnicky, but nothing that can't be done.

If you're making a sling with an eye on each end...
Another method that works great in 7/64" and 1/8" amsteel as well as vectran lines is to push the eye on the other end of the line through just as you would the tail. It hurts nothing to enlarge the opening a little and when splicing larger line, drastically opening the line is required.

but my question is WHY??

Locked Brummels are not required. You can use a straight bury or a regular brummel, both of which are stronger. Locked Brummels are WEAKER than the other splicing methods. Some may disagree on how much weaker, but no one with any experience will say they are as strong or stronger.

The reason for locking the brummel is to prevent the splice from working loose under low load conditions. The same thing can be done with a little whipping twine, sewing thread, or dental floss. Either stitch the bury for a couple passes or whip the beginning of the bury. Both methods keep the splice from working loose under low load.

---

You are correct. Locked Brummels are, strictly speaking, not necessary, but having made quite a few stitched eye splices, the locked brummel is a heck of a lot easier for me than the stitching.

As for the locked brummel vs the regular brummel or plain bury for strength - I'll take Brion Toss's word on that. He writes of Locked Brummel:

Quote:

---

Properly done, this splice will approach 100% efficiency in strength and security.

---

I don't think the regular Brummel or plain bury is going to improve on that. Also, the regular Brummel is far from secure.

Also, I have experienced times when stitching a splice is simply not feasible due to lack of needle and/or thread. But doing a locked Brummel was feasible since the splicing tool was readily at hand.

Just tried this and it is very handy to redo the fixed eye on a whoopie sling without having to undo the adjustable bury. Thanks!

I talked to Old Gringo about this method of Brummel splice this past weekend. I was not aware he was talking about the McDonald Method, I thought he was referring to the NER method. I have been using the NER method for some time and just tried the McDonald Method; pretty slick. Now that I look at it it seems like I have seen it tied before, but I just can't recall exactly where or why. Anyway, now I have two methods for splicing a Brummel locked eye splice!

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by TiredFeet

You are correct. Locked Brummels are, strictly speaking, not necessary, but having made quite a few stitched eye splices, the locked brummel is a heck of a lot easier for me than the stitching.

As for the locked brummel vs the regular brummel or plain bury for strength - I'll take Brion Toss's word on that. He writes of Locked Brummel:



I don't think the regular Brummel or plain bury is going to improve on that. Also, the regular Brummel is far from secure.

Also, I have experienced times when stitching a splice is simply not feasible due to lack of needle and/or thread. But doing a locked Brummel was feasible since the splicing tool was readily at hand.

---

I don't want to start an argument on the merits of each splice. I use locked brummels almost exclusively on my boats. Toss is a well respected rigger and he says "...it approaches 100%." I disagree with him on that point because of the shearing forces created in the locked brummel as opposed to gripping forces. I do agree that it's strong enough for anything we will use it for on a hammock. I also use an "aussie splice" (pictured) on the water. It is a locked brummell without the bury. I know it's not as strong becuase it's a "mechanical" splice. The tails must be equally loaded. By the way, the reason you bury on a locked brummell is to help ensure the tails are equally loaded.


A properly done brummel or straight bury is stronger than 100%. When properly done, the point of failure is always on the line itself -outside of the splice. When improperly done (usually a bad taper), the point of failure is always at the base of the splice where the taper ends.

I totally disagree about the others not being as secure, when properly done. Take a look at tug boat lines, synthetic lifting slings, and all sorts of lines used in industy. It will be very hard to find a locked brummell anywhere. You will find lots of stitched splices. I mention again for the less experienced that the stitching is for the low load condition, not for adding strength to the splice.

Came upon this old thread researching something else. Just for reference then, here is a writeup on the McDonald Brummel along with pictures and text. There is a bit of "magic" coloring (Photoshop) that helps to keep clear what is going on. http://L-36.com/brummel2.php

That said, I prefer lock stitching to the Brummel. My limited testing was a sample of line with one of each kind of splice and it broke in the middle away from either splice. However, the stitched eye splice survived the impact of the break where the Brummel was really taken out of shape by the recoil.

Stitching should be a "S" stitch and not too tight. Don't use a speedy stitcher as the stitches need to stretch under load or they will snap.

Allen