Red River Gorge Quilt Instructions

The instructions I put together for making a down underquilt are now up and running. A big thanks to Jeff for all of the html coding on it. Also thinks to the people that helped me proof read it.

Red River Gorge Quit Instructions

A side note. This is the way that made the most sense to me. There are other ways of doing some of the steps, especially when dealing with the down.

If you use them and find them helpful, post something on this thread. I'm kind of curious to see how much use this will see.

Good luck and enjoy.

That's a great set on instruction you got there, HE. I can't wait until I get mine finished. I really like the name also. :)

Thanks. Depending on how well these go over, other directions for future projects may come to be.

Nice easy steps to follow. I might just have to make one. Thanks. :D

Nate kept getting requests for the link to his Red River Gorge quilt instructions, but he can't answer them for weeks since he's hiking. So attroll put a link under the articles section. When we eventually get it changed over to HF format we'll change the link.

http://www.tothewoods.net/RedRiverGo...orgeQuilt.html

Am in the midst of putting my own together and have used your instructions (and Jeff's superb coding skills) as a guide.

My thanks to you both for provided such clear cut directions, quality pics of the project - which are invaluable for this visually oriented gearmaker - and the time invested in making them available for all of us to benefit from!

I'll post pics once I've finished as long as you promise not to make fun of the slight curve of the baffle seams ;)

I have sleeping bags with curved seams...just tell people it's artistic! :D

WHAT? Seams are supposed to be straight?

I guess I will have to go buy one of those high priced "straight" needles.


DIY sewing will only get better with much practice.. I have been sewing for years and I still have curved hems and seams... Just look at the critic and say, and who sewed yours? your mom?!

Thanks for getting that posted. I didn't want people to think I was ignoring them.

My seams only tend to turn out straight when I can follow a ripstop line. That's why I color code the thread. Hides a lot.

Yep - me too. As long as it holds together it doesn't matter anyway. And if someone is inspecting my gear that closely, and decides to comment on it, well they can go inspect someone else's!

You seen any girls with lasers on their heads out there yet?

These quilts looks very nice. Good detail in the instructions. I have been thinking of making one. However, either I am miss understanding something, or there is an error in the calculations. It says

Total Down Used = [ 7488 / 750 ] x (.15) = 15 oz

I would think it should be

Total Down Before Overstuff = [ 7488 / 750 ] =10 oz

Amount for Overstuff = [ 7488 / 750 ] x (.15) = 1.5 oz

For a total of 11.5 ounces. So I save 3 ounces of weight and the price of the down? Am I missing something?


My stitches are every bit as straight as the trails I hike.

Following those dimensions, it looks like 11.5 ounces would be correct.

Jerry

How do you attatch this to the hammock?

With JRB-style suspension:
http://www.tothewoods.net/JRB.html

Thanks for the info.

I am thinking about making 1 of these. I see that the baffles run "around " the quilt. Would it be better to make them run the length of the quilt? Does it not really matter?

I'm about to make another set of quits. The 2 I made are nearing the end of their lifes. They don't loft as much as they used it. But I got a couple hundred uses out of them.

There is a Speer quilt that goes the long ways. One of the thoughts is the down settles more with the long way. I think the down settles more than I like with the baffles running width ways. The sides get really cold if I don't put my top quilt over me on the inside.

I think on my next one I am going to make box baffles and see how that goes.

On the directions I made mine came out a little short if you want to pull it over your head as a top quilt. I'm planning on making it 8 or so inches longer than I am tall.

Think the .15 should have been 1.5

Quote:

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Originally Posted by krugd

These quilts looks very nice. Good detail in the instructions. I have been thinking of making one. However, either I am miss understanding something, or there is an error in the calculations. It says

Total Down Used = [ 7488 / 750 ] x (.15) = 15 oz

I would think it should be

Total Down Before Overstuff = [ 7488 / 750 ] =10 oz

Amount for Overstuff = [ 7488 / 750 ] x (.15) = 1.5 oz

For a total of 11.5 ounces. So I save 3 ounces of weight and the price of the down? Am I missing something?


My stitches are every bit as straight as the trails I hike.

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PS Just realized I answered a post from Feb '10:)

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Coffee

I'm about to make another set of quits. The 2 I made are nearing the end of their lifes. They don't loft as much as they used it. But I got a couple hundred uses out of them.

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What is the problem? I have down sleeping bags that are 15+ years old and still work great. I've washed them dozens of times over the years using down cleaner, and it always seems to perk them right back up. I'll admit that the one I use most has lost a little loft, but I suspect it is due to losing feathers over the years. What is lacking in your old quilts that makes you inclined to replace them? btw, I do understand if you are replacing them just because you want to make new ones and try a new design ;)

Maybe this is a stupid question, but would this quilt also work as a top quilt?

Yes. I was going to send you to this thread in your new top quilt thread. I've made two quilts using Coffee's design as a template. Well within your skill set based on what you've already built.

I know this is an older thread but figure I would comment on this question with my experience. I made one very similar to this with the baqffles that run around the hammock vs in line with the hammock and I do notice that the down seems to migrate towards the bottom leaveing only a little down along the sides. This does not bother me to much b/c my TQ takes care of that but I do think that if the baffles ran parralel withe he hammock it would eliminate this. I started to make one like that but failed to double check my baffles before

I started sewing and didnt realize until I got to what I thought was the last baffle that I realized that I sewed my first baffle where the second one was supposed to go :cursing: soo that being said I do not have a true side by side to compare with but I have a feeling that having the baffles run parralel withthe hammock would be the way to go.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Roadrunnr72

I am thinking about making 1 of these. I see that the baffles run "around " the quilt. Would it be better to make them run the length of the quilt? Does it not really matter?

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Quote:

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Originally Posted by freakfx

I know this is an older thread but figure I would comment on this question with my experience. I made one very similar to this with the baqffles that run around the hammock vs in line with the hammock and I do notice that the down seems to migrate towards the bottom leaveing only a little down along the sides. This does not bother me to much b/c my TQ takes care of that but I do think that if the baffles ran parralel withe he hammock it would eliminate this. I started to make one like that but failed to double check my baffles before

I started sewing and didnt realize until I got to what I thought was the last baffle that I realized that I sewed my first baffle where the second one was supposed to go :cursing: soo that being said I do not have a true side by side to compare with but I have a feeling that having the baffles run parralel withthe hammock would be the way to go.

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I'm happy to see people are still using these directions.

Earlier this year I made a couple new quilts. I made one with baffles parallel to the hammock and one with the box baffle design. The box baffle design is a lot more work. But I think it gives the best of both designs.

With the way I did the baffles perpendicular to the hammock I always felt my shoulders were a little cold if I didn't cover them more with the top quilt.

thread drift.......coffee is alive.....welcome back!!

Maybe I am misunderstanding the directions, but I thought the same baffle was sewn on the inside and outside layer of the quilt? These directions make it sound like the baffles are just kinda free floating in between the two layers. Maybe i'm missing something. I really want to start making one of these and I'm new to the whole DIY thing.

Very nice, thanks

Thanks for the writeup, Coffee! I just ordered my materials to make an UQ, and Im going to base my design on yours, only with lengthwise baffles, and grosgain channels on the sides to allow for a little bit easier fine-tuning.

I was tossing around the idea of making an asymmetric setup, but instead I'm going to keep it simple since this will be a full length quilt.

Thanks for the instructions Coffee. We've used your instructions for 2 underquilts (me & hubbie) that worked very well for our New Years Eve hike on the Pinhoti trail. We were warm and toasty in the upper 20s. Now we are sewing a 3rd for our daughter for a 4 day Mardi Gras hike on the AT.

I'm still confused by baffles. Could I just sew the inner and outer layer together. Sew three sides together. Then sew lengthwise up to the fourth edge that's not sewed. Fill the opening and then sew the remaining edge?

Quote:

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Originally Posted by joemcc

I'm still confused by baffles. Could I just sew the inner and outer layer together. Sew three sides together. Then sew lengthwise up to the fourth edge that's not sewed. Fill the opening and then sew the remaining edge?

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I think you have it. You dont sew the two "shells" together other than at the edges. You sew the baffles into place on the one layer, then sew the other edge of the baffles into place on the other layer. Then, sew the end and two long sides of the layers together. Your open end is then stuffed, and sewn shut.

If it helps to vizualize things, make a scale model with paper. I built my own, and tried to document everything here: http://www.hammockforums.net/forum/s...ad.php?t=44783

Its still hard for me to picture the baffle. My question is why not just sew the inner and outer layer together not only on the edges but where the baffles should be. For example every 7 inches sew a line connecting the inner and outer layer and then filling the down into the new "channels" of the inner and outer layers. What is the significance of the baffles in place of what I describe.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by joemcc

Its still hard for me to picture the baffle. My question is why not just sew the inner and outer layer together not only on the edges but where the baffles should be. For example every 7 inches sew a line connecting the inner and outer layer and then filling the down into the new "channels" of the inner and outer layers. What is the significance of the baffles in place of what I describe.

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You are describing "sewn through" construction. It's used on some summer weight quilts. The problem with sewn through is that no matter how much loft you have in between the stitch lines, you will have zero loft at the seams. Baffles allow the quilt to fully loft across it's entire width and length without the "cold spots" that sewing through would create.

sweet deal.

I love these instructions, I have 4 quilts on the go right now so that I can induct my wife and kids into the "hanger's" club in the spring. I have made them all hammocks and tarps already so this is all that is standing in the way of a complete set-up for all of us.

One thing though, on Jeff's sight, at the top of the article on this quilt, he says:

"The quilt is made with an outer shell of a down proof fabric. This can be 1.1 oz DWR ripstop nylon or Momentun90 available at www.thru-hiker.com as used in this project. The outer shell is chosen to be a lighter color to keep radiant heat loss to a minimum, and the inner shell material is chosen to be black to help absorb your radiant heat."

I think Jeff has this color scheme backwards with respect to radiant heat retention or loss. Dark colors absorb energy, and the idea of insulation is to retain heat. A light color near the hanger will reduce radiant heat loss by the camper and a dark outer color will potentially absorb any available radiant energy from radiant sources. But the real function of the under quilt is to stop or slow the loss or heat energy through convective means, and in this case, color has no influence on convection energy transfer. That is where the down come into play.

Sorry, I had to get my geek on. That's what being an engineer will do to you.

done with 20$ uq and 5$ nylon summer tarp......... who says a 12 year old cant fire up a thread injector and make some afordable gear! got my sights on a diy winter tarp.your cheap 12 year old hanger nutty squrirrel

I used to think it matters but probably not enough on which color where for most of us to notice. No hard facts, just a feeling.

My last set of quilts were the same green on both sides.

Glad this could help.

Referenced these instructions for my DIY uq. A couple of weeks and 40oz of down later, I have a professional looking uq.

just too add, i have taken my uq down to the teens which is about as cold as it gets here, i will be adding grossgain channels and ridgeline stays for the middle of the uq. aside from the weight this is a great quilt.

About how much was total cost to make this? I have no sewing skills but I do have friends with skills. I also have a machine at my moms I may steal and try this on my own if its not too expensive.

Thanks guys!

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Originally Posted by kikoraa

About how much was total cost to make this? I have no sewing skills but I do have friends with skills. I also have a machine at my moms I may steal and try this on my own if its not too expensive.

Thanks guys!

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I was also just wondering if. I could get arough cost.of materials on this

You can go for quality and weight saving or can make it cheap. I have
Made both. For about 20 dollars in fabric from Joanne's and a 4
Dollar down blanket from the thrift store, I have one weighing in at
22 oz. good down to mid to high 30s for $24 dollars is hard to beat.

Thanks for the great instructions! I'm really proud of mine.

https://www.hammockforums.net/forum/...4&d=1374852186

https://www.hammockforums.net/forum/...7&d=1374852259

Just finished mine last night. I skipped the velcro (couldn't figure out what it was for) and put in mitered corners (thanks doogie https://www.hammockforums.net/forum/...ad.php?t=67042). Some (all...?) of the long stitches aren't exactly what some would call "strait" but I'm excited about it. 2.25" or so of loft using 800 FP and Momemtum 90 from ThruHiker, should be good to go as soon as I can get a night out in the woods! Thanks for the great instructions!

Whats up with the velcro? Do you need to sew a strip of velcro onto your hammock for the head and foot ends to stick to?

Thinking about a down UQ for my next project. Is this the best instructional around?
Just want to make sure I'm using the best info.

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Originally Posted by GadgetUK437

Thinking about a down UQ for my next project. Is this the best instructional around?
Just want to make sure I'm using the best info.

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I LOVE THE FACT THIS THREAD HAS BEEN AROUND SINCE JULY OF 2007. WOW

Now, it's still around in 2017. Great thread, great instructions.