Bugs and warmth
The naked hammock. Attachment 178 Still working on finding the right ridgeline. 10’ stand and 9’ hammock doesn’t give enough room to experiment in the garage. This pix is in the yard. Haven’t cut the ridge line so you will see some excess cord in the following. Using ring buckle support and it works fine.Attachment 180
The bug net:
Mesh of your choice, 5’ wide, ideally 2’ longer than the hammock ridgeline. (Mine is 6” too short.)Attachment 179
Sew two tie out tabs on each side, one each, 2” below the mid point of the 5’ side. (Tie outs: ¾ inch grosgrain, 2” long, folded in half, sewed with bar stitches with about ½” loop.) One mini binder on each side. Slip tie outs thru mini binder, connect binder to descending ring. Tie the loose mesh in a simple overhand knot below the binder. I also sewed two Velcro “buttons” mid way down the sides.
Also sew tie outs at mid point on each of the long sides of the mesh. Connect 2’ of shock cord to one side, and another mini binder to tag end of shock cord. On this mini binder also tie a 3’ piece of string.Attachment 181
Climb in, holding on to the string, reach down, pull the string, and connect the mini binder to the tie out. Bug free! You will need to adjust the length of the shock cord to fit so that it is tight, but not taut.
Accept the fact that something more, i.e. more weight, more pieces, will be required for comfort in cooler weather.
Rather than an exotic double bottom system, just add another, longer hammock, but without all the hanging hardware. Since this hammock will only hold insulation, it can be made of extremely light fiber. My local outfitter had a 20% sale, and an 8 oz Travel Hammock for $20 ($16 total, 8 oz.) For cheap skates this was impossible to beat! The Travel Hammock is actually too short, but it works.
Sew 4 tie outs along each side of the Travel Hammock. Take off the heavy “S” hook included with the Travel Hammock and substitute a loop of shock cord about 6” long (14” of cord tied with a square knot.) Clip mini binders to the shock cord loops, hang your sleeping hammock, put the 2nd hammock underneath, clip the mini binders to the descending rings. Insert your choice of sleeping pad between the hammocks. Tie strings across the tie outs, either over the ridge line or not.
With both bugs and warmth, use the same mini binder.Attachment 185
Be happy.Attachment 186
Total weight including “Bishop Bag” and big biners on the support web, excluding pad, and tarp = 2lbs, 13 oz. I’m using “Ace Hardware” descending rings. Could shave some ounces with hi tech climbing rings, but can’t find them locally.
Yeah, you should save about 4 ounces or so using SMC descending rings.
Looks great tightwad. That Camo netting is starting to grow on me.
Camo is what they had, cheap, at Wally's world. This is what I also use for stuff sacks for the tarp, and ropes, and smelly socks, and ...
Originally Posted by headchange4u
I did not really want the camo webbing, but these two 1500 lb, 15' polyester straps came with a cam buckle tie down for strapping 4 wheelers, etc. to trailers. $9.99 at a local auto parts store. Just toss the cam hardware, and hack saw (drimel tool) off the -VERY- heavy S hooks.
Will do. I'm still tinkering with this, but wanted to post my thoughts and get some feedback before I walked off the edge of a cliff on this. The second hammock wasn't hanging as tight in the yard as it was in the garage. Thanks.
Originally Posted by TeeDee