All confused now...
I know I'll need some insulation for my HH for anything other than summer use. Looking at their site, the newer 'Super Shelter' is an open-cell foam insulation in silnylon.
Here, almost everything I read tells me not to use a waterproof material for an underquilt. And almost everything I read says to use either down or a synthetic lofted insulation. One reason given on the HH site is that is lofted insulation is used, it has to be quilted to keep it in place.
Which leads me to a couple of questions.
Does anyone have the HH underquilt and how does it perform?
Should I use a silnylon material if I do make an underquilt?
Has anyone, rather than stitch the insulation in place, used some type of a
spray adhesive to keep the Polarguard from shifting?
Do the 'V' shaped cuts in the KAQ pattern give enough curvature to the underquilt that it fits snug or has anyone tinkered with this pattern for a tighter fit? (two small cuts/side rather than one bigger one, etc.)
It's almost time to set up that old, grandmother-inherited sewing machine and have at it!
Underquilts are not suppose to fit snug. The air gap helps keep you warm. If it is snug, cold spots form.
The super shelter is not an underquilt. It is a combination of a closed cell foam pad and an undercover. I have heard good things about the super shelter, but have never used one.
HHSS pros cons
There are several of us here and at Whiteblaze that have come to appreciate the SS, though it doesn't seem very impressive to look at. I find it quite useful for the weight and cost. You also get considerable additional protection from wind and rain.
Some others here are quite unimpressed with them. I think experience with them really helps get the full potential from them. Especially learning the tricks re: adding insulation either from coats or vests/whatever that you are not wearing to bed. And/or adding the optional torso kidney pads. Or using a trash bag by itself or with a space blanket to get a whole lot of extra loft for miniscule extra weight. There are several threads where it is all debated. Here is one:
For me, the most basic SS sytem (pad, undercover) is certainly good into the 40s, with the suggested space blanket maybe the 30s. Easily augmented to lower from there. I got some test reports from 18* to 38*, and what I needed to add below 38*, somewhere on here or on WB.
I think they have great potential, however I have never used one.
i have tried the spray adhesive, didn,'t go that route, but there night be something there. i have found though, that if the insul is continuous filament like the climashield and polarguard, that simply stitching the insul to the edge of the shell does pretty well at stabalizing the insul, no quilt loops needed. i read somewhere that you could do that with continuous filament. my uq is not that old, but it seems to be working fine like that. i roll it instead of stuff it though.
has anyone experienced problems with insulation that is only stabilized at the edges, or does everyone use quilt loops?
you can use sil for an uq, i do.
you do want a completly snug fit, big air pockets release hot air right through the ripstop, up through your hammock from below, and if the sleeping bag doesn't cover the whole air pocket, the heat just passes right through the hammock fabric (which is not insulative) and is lost.
I have constructed two Potomac UQs from the instructions posted on the KAQ site. The darts allow a good fit when using a HH. The shock cords around the perimeter allow you to adjust for warm or cold weather use. You want to adjust it so it eliminates large air pockets but too snug and it will compress the insulation. I used 1.1 DWR to allow it to breath thus keeping down condensation. I also used quilting loops to keep the insulation in place when stuffing it. I would not feel comfortable without them. You will find pictures in my gallery.
Originally Posted by gstepclassical
Non-sewing person asking dumb question- what is this "dart"?
A dart is the "v" cut in the fabric that when sewn together gives the UQ a bathtub shape.
i haven't tried it yet, but i've often thought that w/ the sheet type insulation, being sewn around the edges should be all that's really needed.
Originally Posted by warbonnetguy
i don't see any way it's going to come loose & shift.
Wiggy's bag are all Lamilite which is continuous filament and he only "attaches" the insulation at the "edges" - the shell material just "floats" on the insulation. He advocates that anything penetrating the insulation partially defeats the insulation. Not his exact words, just what I have distilled from reading his material.