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  1. #1
    Senior Member Wkerber's Avatar
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    DIY Hex Tarp - questions

    I have a Superfly, which I like very well, but thinking about making my own 11' hex tarp to save a few ounces for longer hikes in good weather. Looking at using the guide at DIY Gear Supply and making it with 1.1 SIL. Has anyone done this before that can offer up a finished weight? I'm hoping that 11-12 oz is a reasonable expectation. Also, I'm interested in any of those "next time, I'd change ..." type insights. Suggestions for other guides or patterns appreciated.

    I've made my own hammocks, quilts, bugnets and backpacks. Really not sure why I haven't gotten around to a tarp yet. But, need to get it done so I can be 100% DIY, at least in fair weather.

    Thanks for any feedback!
    Bill

  2. #2
    Senior Member Boston's Avatar
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    I'd estimate 13-16oz depending on material, ridge line style, reinforcement style, and hardware.

    If you reduce the width, you can probably hit the 10-12oz range.

    Remember 1.1 sil is not 1.1. That's the fabric weight prior to silicone being applied. It usually more like 1.3-1.5.

  3. #3
    SilvrSurfr's Avatar
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    I made one per Fronkey's DIY Hex tutorial - came in around 13.2 ounces.
    "A foolish consistency is the hobgoblin of little minds." Ralph Waldo Emerson

  4. #4
    SnrMoment's Avatar
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    12 - 13 ozs is about right. That can vary some based on the extremes of your catenary cuts. I have a DIY based on the Tadpole from Wilderness Logics which weighs in around 11.5 oz.
    Love is blind. Marriage is an eye opener.

  5. #5
    Senior Member Wkerber's Avatar
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    Thanks. Definitely planning to skinny it up some. Thinking of making it about 8' wide with about a 5" catenary curve on the sides. Did you use grosgrain on the ridgeline or just a flat felled seam. I'm leaning towards just a flat felled seam.
    Bill

  6. #6
    Senior Member Boston's Avatar
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    Prefer a bound ridgeline. Easier to sew for me, and doesn't require seam sealing.

  7. #7
    SnrMoment's Avatar
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    No seam on the ridge line. I bought the tarp used from one of the members here. It's a first class piece of work.
    Love is blind. Marriage is an eye opener.

  8. #8
    Senior Member Floridahanger's Avatar
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    I didn't sew the RL on my tarp.

    I used the full panel for the top and cut the second panel in half. I used the half panels for the bottom on both sides. That makes a flatfelled seam on both sides of the tarp. My thinking was if there was a failure of the seamseal or I pulled a stitch, etc. that any leaking will be halfway down the tarp and not over me. It also made it easier to sew the pullouts before I sewed the bottom panels on since the pullouts were near the edge.
    Enjoy and have fun with your family, before they have fun without you

  9. #9
    Senior Member Wkerber's Avatar
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    I think I'll try that. A full panel on top and 2 narrower ones on the sides with a flat felled seam. Great idea.
    Bill

  10. #10
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    Quote Originally Posted by Floridahanger View Post
    I didn't sew the RL on my tarp.

    I used the full panel for the top and cut the second panel in half. I used the half panels for the bottom on both sides. That makes a flatfelled seam on both sides of the tarp. My thinking was if there was a failure of the seamseal or I pulled a stitch, etc. that any leaking will be halfway down the tarp and not over me. It also made it easier to sew the pullouts before I sewed the bottom panels on since the pullouts were near the edge.
    That is a pretty good idea. I may have to try that on my next one.

    I sewed the "Winter Tarp" from DIY Gear Supply and love it. My seam is on the ridgeline, but the seam sealer has worked so far for me. I never have weighed it...

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