DIY Hex Tarp - questions

[Cedar1974]

You know, the no seam RL idea would also make putting tieouts in easier, just slip it on along the side seams.

[MrPopper]

Thats a great idea florida. I really like that. I may have to use that as well. I have some ideas.

[Cedar1974]

You know, the no seam RL idea would also make putting tieouts in easier, just slip it on along the side seams.

I didn't sew the RL on my tarp.

I used the full panel for the top and cut the second panel in half. I used the half panels for the bottom on both sides. That makes a flatfelled seam on both sides of the tarp. My thinking was if there was a failure of the seamseal or I pulled a stitch, etc. that any leaking will be halfway down the tarp and not over me. It also made it easier to sew the pullouts before I sewed the bottom panels on since the pullouts were near the edge.

Gee, I should have read your post better, you pretty much said what I did. Don't I feel like a goofball

[slbear]

Why is the side seams better for sewing the side pullouts? Seems like you are now sewing and sealing 2 long seams, and I'm not clear how the pullouts get incorporated into the double rolled seam.

[Floridahanger]

I made my own sil for the entire tarp so I dunked the tarp in a bucket instead of seam sealing, but, I did have to make 2 seams instead of 1.

The pullouts are about 3 inches above the seam, put easily into place before I connected the panels.

Another forum member that asked about my tarp went a step farther and made his a 2 tone tarp with the bottom panels a different color than the top. It turned out very nice.

[Mouseskowitz]

If you can find some sil argon it should be light enough. My sil argon 11' winter tarp is 14.5 oz w/o suspension. I'll try to remember to weigh my hex when I get home. It's a true 11' hex with a flat felt seam. I've used grosgrain on my winter tarp and think I prefer that for ease of construction and not needing sealing.

[Mouseskowitz]

My hex is 15.8 oz with the ridge line and no tie outs. I'm sure not having grosgrain going all the way around the edges would cut a couple ounces off.

[slbear]

The OP had a SF and was looking to shave some ounces. I have a HH Hexfly (heavyweight - 25oz w/ snakeskins) and want to lighten up as much as possible for backpacking. If I was going to attempt my first silnylon tarp, would you start with a winter (SF style) tarp first or are you finding you only need that in winter conditions? I may get surprised by some winter-like conditions, but it will be a surprise here in SoCal.

-Slbear

[Floridahanger]

The doors are not just for snow management, but, for storm management. High winds, blowing rains/snow come in different seasons and the doors are a great help when the tarp direction is limited by the tree location.

Usually, you can find trees that help to minimize the wind/rain/snow by turning the tarp, but, not always. Some hex tarps are long enough to close the ends, but, you need to add pullouts to the tarp in from the ends 1.5-2 feet in to allow the tarp to open enough to have just the ends meet.

I like the doors better for foul weather or unpredictable weather. In good weather to mild winds with rain/snow, the hex is great.

[Hammonkey]

If the goal is creating a lighter good weather tarp to compliment your foul weather superfly, why not make a diamond asym? Easier to make, less materials needed, and even lighter weight.