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  1. #1
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    DIY Down Underquilt (UQ) - baffle design question

    Here is the design I created after looking at many existing underquilts.

    The details:
    3 Season - 20 Degree
    3/4 Underquilt
    7.0 oz. of 850 FP GD
    48"W x 60"L
    14 baffles 4 1/4" wide

    Underquilt-baffle-layout.png

    According to my calculations this would require 6.77 oz of 850 FP down. To make the math easy I rounded up to 7.0 oz and doubled that number to create the number of baffles.

    I have two questions for anyone who may have tried this before.

    1) Is there an advantage to the baffles being across the long side vs the short side?
    2) Would there be any advantage to adding a baffle divider down the middle (long side or dotted line in the diagram) to keep the down more distributed? This doubles the sewing work and baffle weight both of which long term seem to be negilble.

    Thanks,

    Dave

  2. #2
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    1) Most people (and cottage vendors) choose to run the baffles vertically along the length of the UQ. I believe this is because of the shape the UQ takes when you lie in the hammock. While lying in the hammock, the sides of the UQ are raised higher than the middle/bottom. With horizontal baffles, this may cause the down to shift/fall towards the center, potentially leaving you with cold shoulders.
    2) I can't see much of an advantage to the baffle divider. Instead, I'd recommend adding an extra ounce of down to bring your quilt out to a 20-30% overstuff. This will help prevent the down from shifting.

    How tall are you going to make your baffle height to achieve the 20 degree rating?

  3. #3
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    I see from your picture that you intend to use 2" for the baffle height, sorry I missed that. I'd consider using 7.5-8oz of down and would highly recommend looking into making a differential cut for the outer and inner shells if you aren't already planning on it.

  4. #4
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    Quote Originally Posted by CC_Cinci View Post
    1) Most people (and cottage vendors) choose to run the baffles vertically along the length of the UQ. I believe this is because of the shape the UQ takes when you lie in the hammock. While lying in the hammock, the sides of the UQ are raised higher than the middle/bottom. With horizontal baffles, this may cause the down to shift/fall towards the center, potentially leaving you with cold shoulders.
    That certainly makes sense to me now. I will keep looking around.

    Quote Originally Posted by CC_Cinci View Post
    I see from your picture that you intend to use 2" for the baffle height, sorry I missed that. I'd consider using 7.5-8oz of down and would highly recommend looking into making a differential cut for the outer and inner shells if you aren't already planning on it.
    I assume you mean that the inner shell should be smaller so that the underquilt wraps more when suspended? I had certainly intended to dart the inner shell to make it smaller but I haven't yet decided on a final design.

  5. #5
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    Quote Originally Posted by raneyda View Post
    I assume you mean that the inner shell should be smaller so that the underquilt wraps more when suspended? I had certainly intended to dart the inner shell to make it smaller but I haven't yet decided on a final design.
    Yes, that is what I meant.
    Here is a link to an excel sheet where you can plug in your desired final dimensions (48x60x2) and it calculates the differential cut: https://www.hammockforums.net/forum/...ial+calculator

    I remember coming across another similar excel document that goes much more in depth but I can't seem to find the link right now. Anywho, good luck with your project!

  6. #6
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    Quote Originally Posted by CC_Cinci View Post
    Yes, that is what I meant.
    Here is a link to an excel sheet where you can plug in your desired final dimensions (48x60x2) and it calculates the differential cut: https://www.hammockforums.net/forum/...ial+calculator

    I remember coming across another similar excel document that goes much more in depth but I can't seem to find the link right now. Anywho, good luck with your project!
    Whoa! That calculator is awesome!!! I will have to play around with that a bit more to make sense of it all but that is a great place to start.

  7. #7
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    FYI
    You may have to go to the last page in that thread to get the corrected, up-to-date calculator.

  8. #8
    Senior Member Cedar1974's Avatar
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    How exactly do you sew baffles into a UQ? I've seen one persin just sew straight across two pieces, but the method shown in the spreadsheet, how does that work?

  9. #9
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    Quote Originally Posted by Cedar1974 View Post
    How exactly do you sew baffles into a UQ? I've seen one persin just sew straight across two pieces, but the method shown in the spreadsheet, how does that work?
    The recommended method would be to have an inner shell and an outer sheel. In between would be the baffle material. In my case that will be noseeum. If are looking at the calculator then you specify a baffle height and you sew the noseeum between the sheels that matches the height of your baffles. The other measurement in the calculator is the overall loft height. This implies that the distance between baffles (not the height) would have more material on the outer shell to allow the loft to be greater than the baffle height. Did that make sense?

  10. #10
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    Quote Originally Posted by Cedar1974 View Post
    How exactly do you sew baffles into a UQ? I've seen one persin just sew straight across two pieces, but the method shown in the spreadsheet, how does that work?
    Instead of sewing the top piece of fabric directly to the bottom piece to create chambers to fill with insulation (down or synthetic), a baffle is used to connect the two pieces:
    baffle.jpg
    Long story short, this approach is used when making colder weather quilts. The height of the baffle and fill amount will affect the amount of loft, which is used to estimate the temperature rating.

    Here's a picture of me connecting the top and bottom pieces of my quilt with a baffle:
    sewing.jpg

    Hope this helps.

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