Continuous loops spliced into amsteel?

**vr6gno** · 12-17-2014, 17:12

I have a hammock with an integrated bugnet that has loops on top to hold the net up. With my structural driveline attached at the hammock the net is not as high as I would like. I don't want another line just for the net and want to keep this as simple and light as possible since it's for my wife. I want the line attached on one side ( larks head) and removable on the other. My thought was to splice in continuous loops higher up the suspension lines to attach the ridgeline and hold up the net. Any thoughts.

**Squid In The Woods** · 12-17-2014, 17:41

I'm having a hard time visualizing it but would a prusik knot work?

**SilvrSurfr** · 12-17-2014, 18:05

Originally Posted by vr6gno

I have a hammock with an integrated bugnet that has loops on top to hold the net up. With my structural driveline attached at the hammock the net is not as high as I would like. I don't want another line just for the net and want to keep this as simple and light as possible since it's for my wife. I want the line attached on one side ( larks head) and removable on the other. My thought was to splice in continuous loops higher up the suspension lines to attach the ridgeline and hold up the net. Any thoughts.

What type of hammock is it? In all likelihood, any hammock with loops on top to hold the net up is going to be heavy anyway (Skeeter Beeter Pro, Byer Moskito Hammock, Yukon), so I don't think a separate bugnet ridgeline is going to make much difference. Sounds like you're already using Amsteel 7/64 for your whoopie sling/UCR suspension, so I wouldn't start splicing line into that and affect its integrity (besides, where would you splice it in? not on the adjustable part so that leaves only the section with the fixed loop, which is already spliced). Better to larkshead some Zing-It 1.75 onto your whoopies/UCRs to support the bugnet.

If you want a removable bugnet ridgeline, I would think you'd need to larkshead a loop of Zing-It onto the whoopie and attach a biner to it.

**vr6gno** · 12-17-2014, 21:10

I'm using a single line suspension with 7/64 for a little clarification.
My thought on the purisk knot is that when not under load is would slip on the suspension.
I tried to make a purisk/ larks head type loop in the suspension and larks headed the ridge line to that but again when not under load it slipped. Hopefully that make since.
I know I could use a toggle or something like that on both ends but I'm trying to keep setup more simple with less stuff. I would like to find a way to have one side attached and the other connecting with a soft shackle.
Thanks for the input and ideas

**Tacoma96** · 12-17-2014, 21:19

If you can, put a picture up here. That would help.

**freesince83** · 12-18-2014, 07:16

What about a butterfly knot on the suspension line? This knot will take a load in three directions.

**vr6gno** · 12-18-2014, 09:27

http://i1209.photobucket.com/albums/...ps90877153.jpg amsteel.jpg
this is an example i made last night. a locked brumeled loop with the legs buried in the suspension line. they come out and are burried back in to hold the burrie when not under load. i dont think the suspension is weakend by doing this but the concern would be will the burried loop slip when under load.
just like all of our suspension, the burry should depend on the load so make them longer if needed. ideas, concerns?

**vr6gno** · 12-18-2014, 09:35

Originally Posted by freesince83

What about a butterfly knot on the suspension line? This knot will take a load in three directions.

just looked up the butterfly knot. pretty cool and i think that would work without adding anything to the suspension. i will go that rout for now. that being said im still interested in splicing loops into the suspension and will play around with it a little longer if there is still intrest here.

**hppyfngy** · 12-18-2014, 09:52

I don't see a reason to splice anything in when a zing-it prussik will do the job. Yes, they move, that's the point. They're feather light, and always adjustable.

ssprusik3small.jpg

**gmcttr** · 12-18-2014, 11:50

FWIW...

If you are burying the CL ends into the same section that the adjustable bury is located, the breaking strength will be lowered considerably due to excessive deformation of the fibers in the constrictor. Doubling up buries is not a good idea.

Knots derate the breaking strength of amsteel considerably more then standard ropes. Best guess is the alpine butterfly will derate amsteel to ~35% of listed minimum breaking strength. For 7/64" Amsteel Blue, this would be MBS = 1400 lb x 0.35 = 490 lb.