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  1. #1
    Senior Member Merganser's Avatar
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    Webbing... how do you roll?

    I've made a prototype bridge hammock with cord (amsteel blue). I found that the arcs are just a little sharp. My plan was to use narrower cord for my production version. Pretty sure that will be worse. So I'm going to re-do it with webbing.

    So my question is how do you roll? so the webbing winds up in the inside or outside? Anybody notice a difference? finish, comfort, stress on stitching etc?

  2. #2
    Senior Member Ramblinrev's Avatar
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    I rolled mine outside so the inside was smooth to move my legs up and out. But I doubt it really matters. Just a personal tweak.
    I may be slow... But I sure am gimpy.

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  3. #3
    Senior Member GrizzlyAdams's Avatar
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    I tend to roll it so the webbing is on the outside. I might have had a reason once, but I fergit. For the ones without bugnets I've hung a given hammock inside in and also inside out. Can't tell much difference.

    For webbing...I like the sailrite stuff. Pretty much the equivalent for weight and strength is 1/2" mule tape, some people have easy access to bits of that. Used to pull cable through conduits. Need to be careful though, some of it comes lubricated, and some with an embedded wire to make remote detection of position easy...

    Grizz

  4. #4
    Senior Member Merganser's Avatar
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    I ordered webbing from sailrite. Too bad they didn't have the 3/4in rings, seems like its the only place with the webbing.

    I want to sew the end caps (parabola) onto the body before rolling the webbing. That way I can have the top of the end cap level with the top of the webbing. Real nice finish detail. If I roll to the outside I can do that but its not an option rolling to the inside.

    I could see that if the webbing tended to stay vertical rolling to the outside would wind up with any more stress on the stitching. I sort of expected the weight on the fabric would rotate the webbing parallel to the fabric, which would eliminate that, but wasn't sure.

  5. #5
    Senior Member ExPXGUY's Avatar
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    On my first bridge, I rolled so webbing was to outside and had stitches tear out at the ends, the webbing wanted to stay vertical at the poles and the fabric pulled away (inward). Switched to webbing on inside on later models and haven't had a problem since.
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  6. #6
    Senior Member Merganser's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by ExPXGUY View Post
    I rolled so webbing was to outside and had stitches tear out at the ends...
    Was the end of webbing folded back from the ring (assuming you used a ring) on the inside or outside, or did you roll it in?

  7. #7
    Senior Member GrizzlyAdams's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by ExPXGUY View Post
    On my first bridge, I rolled so webbing was to outside and had stitches tear out at the ends, the webbing wanted to stay vertical at the poles and the fabric pulled away (inward). Switched to webbing on inside on later models and haven't had a problem since.
    That's an interesting point. I think that in all my bridge designs, unintentionally the webbing could rotate with the tension (because the ring could, back when I used rings, or now that there isn't anything rigid holding onto the webbing).

    Now on the JRB hammock the rings go very horizontal because the spreader bar hooks onto an edge of the ring and so it flattens out. In that case I think the opposite of what happened with your first bridge occurs. Your rings are pretty rigidly vertical it seems.

    Grizz

  8. #8
    Senior Member ExPXGUY's Avatar
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    Webbing... how do you roll?

    Hope these photos show what I was talking about.

    The earlier grey hammock (inside view) shows webbing rolled to outside. ( I wanted to be able to attach loops under the seam on the outside for underquilts etc.) But the webbing tended to stay very vertical and the force of the crossways "U" shape of the hammock tended to rip the seams and/or pull the fabric uncomfortably tight.

    The camo/grey hammock (inside view) shows webbing rolled to the inside and it worked better. I used the inside seam to sew 10" grossgrain loops for pulling myself to head of hammock so I am not tempted to grab spreader bars (a no-no).

    Grizz is right in that various spreader bar setups will position the end loop at different angles and your situation may differ.
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  9. #9
    Senior Member Merganser's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by GrizzlyAdams View Post
    ... back when I used rings, or now that there isn't anything rigid holding onto the webbing.Grizz
    Are you just attaching cord directly to the webbing then? I got the impression there were concerns about the cord rubbing on the webbing. I would be just fine NOT using rings if they aren't actually necesary.

  10. #10
    Senior Member GrizzlyAdams's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Merganser View Post
    Are you just attaching cord directly to the webbing then? I got the impression there were concerns about the cord rubbing on the webbing. I would be just fine NOT using rings if they aren't actually necesary.
    yes. ExPXGUY does something nice, you can see it in his photo, of putting some kind of shielding over the cord.

    My arrangement is a bit different than his...been meaning to write it up but just aren't getting excited about a "Here's Grizz's Summer Rig 2009" post...

    Hmm, a picture is worth a thousand words, more actually because people won't read a thousand words...the motivation is to make a suspension I can switch between the 2-3 bridge prototypes I'm tinkering with easily, and also to make my bugnet moveable between them. So through that loop goes a stub of cord whose ends have stopper knots in them. I slip
    loops of the suspension cord behind the stopper knots, the loops are really bights that get tightened down with a bit of LashIt tied in a whipping knot (that slides along the bight). The nubs of my spreader bars get pinned down just beyond that.

    Anyway, to the point, there isn't much sawing action here from cord to webbing. I do always inspect my gear for wear, no visible issues there yet.

    Grizz

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