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  1. #1
    Senior Member jofish's Avatar
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    What type of seams for a DIY quilt?

    I'm planning on making a down top quilt and was wondering what types of seams other DIYers use. I'm hoping to make a tapered quilt (58" wide at top, 42" wide at bottom).

    My plan of attack (so far) is this:

    -sew baffles onto inner and outer layers with a simple stitch
    -sew inner layer to outer layer with a felled seam (see http://thru-hiker.com/projects/basic_seams.php for a good diagram)

    What type of seams have you used on your DIY quilts? A felled seam? French? Other? Ideas? Suggestions?

  2. #2
    Senior Member GrizzlyAdams's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by jofish View Post
    I'm planning on making a down top quilt and was wondering what types of seams other DIYers use. I'm hoping to make a tapered quilt (58" wide at top, 42" wide at bottom).

    My plan of attack (so far) is this:

    -sew baffles onto inner and outer layers with a simple stitch
    -sew inner layer to outer layer with a felled seam (see http://thru-hiker.com/projects/basic_seams.php for a good diagram)

    What type of seams have you used on your DIY quilts? A felled seam? French? Other? Ideas? Suggestions?
    You're suggesting pretty much what I've done, modulo rolling the baffle edge either before sewing it down, or AS I sew it down. Schneiderlein had this great idea of using a rolling hem presser foot as you sew the baffle down. If you don't have one, they are less than $10 and available at any fabric store.

    Grizz
    Last edited by GrizzlyAdams; 09-04-2009 at 08:35.

  3. #3
    Senior Member jofish's Avatar
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    Great! More questions:

    Excellent. Thanks for the rolled seam suggestion on the baffles. Great idea! It should definitely make it more sturdy w/o adding any weight. I've got a few more questions, so please bear with this DIYer newb!

    Question on the felled seams; do you have the inner & outer layer "inside out"? Let me explain:

    1) I could sew the baffles onto one of the layers
    2) then sew the bottom (feet end of the quilt) and one side with felled seams
    3) then sew the baffles to the other layer
    4) then sew the the top (head end of the quilt) with a felled seam
    5) then stuff
    6) and finally sew the other side shut with a felled seam

    I could sew those first two felled seams between the two layers (#2 above) with the layers inside out and then sew the other two (#4 and #6) with the layers right side out - my only option with those two seams.

    OR I could sew all four of the seams with the layers facing the way they'll be in the end (right-side out). If I do that, then I could use the simpler order of: sew baffles to first layer, then to second layer, then sew 3 sides between layers shut, stuff, sew 4th side.

    Are there any advantages to either of these approaches? Hope my wording is clear.

    And my other question was about the baffles themselves. What height should I use? That is, if I want 3" loft should I have 3" baffles, 2.5" baffles...?

  4. #4
    Senior Member Ramblinrev's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by GrizzlyAdams View Post
    Schneiderlein had this great idea of using a rolling hem presser foot as you sew the baffle down. If you don't have one, they are less than $10 and available at any fabric store.

    Grizz
    YMMV... I have tried and tried to get a rolled hem foot to work on a variety of machines and a variety of fabrics. No luck whatsoever at all. zippo. nada. That is not to say they don't work. It is to say that _if_ you have trouble using one you will not be alone in the world. I think the idea is great and I have tried to make it work. But a_for me_ I get better results by hand. SYOS (sew your own seam). If you can get it to work more power to you.
    I may be slow... But I sure am gimpy.

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  5. #5
    Senior Member GrizzlyAdams's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Ramblinrev View Post
    YMMV... I have tried and tried to get a rolled hem foot to work on a variety of machines and a variety of fabrics. No luck whatsoever at all. zippo. nada. That is not to say they don't work. It is to say that _if_ you have trouble using one you will not be alone in the world. I think the idea is great and I have tried to make it work. But a_for me_ I get better results by hand. SYOS (sew your own seam). If you can get it to work more power to you.
    Indeed YMMV. I can make it work on no-seeum and on heavier fabrics like 1.9 oz rip stop. Not any kind of 1.1, ESPECIALLY NOT SIL.

    Grizz

  6. #6
    Senior Member TeeDee's Avatar
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    For a top quilt, the Karo step design is much easier. As for hems, I much prefer the box style edge treatment - gives full down protection to the edges and very simple to do. The Karo step is much easier than full baffles, both to sew and to fill with down.

    I wrote up a description here.

    Also, for a top quilt, I recommend the draft stoppers on the sides. The draft stoppers actually extend the side coverage without extraneous down. The sides are going to be tucked under your body anyway and, hence, like the bottom of a sleeping bag, the down would be compressed and lose most or all of it's insulating quality. Tucking the draft stoppers underneath allows the full down loft to the hammock side, no crushed down.

    Also, I have found that the draft stoppers make it possible to design a much simpler fox box. You no longer need a snap or Velcro up the side of the quilt for the foot box. The draft stoppers tuck under the legs and provide the same function. A simple draw cord on the end, in conjunction with the draft stoppers, provide a really effective fox box.

    I put a draw cord on the head end also and we have found the head end draw cord with the draft stoppers to very effective in sealing the top quilt around the shoulders and neck.
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  7. #7
    Senior Member TeeDee's Avatar
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    As far as sewing the steps/baffles to the covers - I've simply laid the step/baffle material on the cover material and sewed it down. No hems, nothing fancy. I allow a minimum of 1" edging so that even if the edges tend to ravel, the 1" allowance will still hold. A little raveling doesn't much matter for aesthetics - it's buried inside.
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  8. #8
    Senior Member Darby's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by GrizzlyAdams View Post
    Indeed YMMV. I can make it work on no-seeum and on heavier fabrics like 1.9 oz rip stop. Not any kind of 1.1, ESPECIALLY NOT SIL.

    Grizz
    I've had the same luck. I got sil to work using a scrap piece ONCE. I got so frustrated, I had to drink a beer !
    Beer won't solve problems, but then again, neither will milk !
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  9. #9
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    jofish, don't think the felled seam will work in this situation, you might be able to do a felled seam on 3 sides if you do it before you attach the baffles to the second shell, but it's going to make sewing the second side of the baffles on a real PITA, and i don't think it would be possible to sew the final edge with a felled seam at all as you'd be sewing all the way through your quilt.

    easiest is to just do all baffles top and bottom and then sew 3 sides together with a rolled hem, stuff and sew the 4th with a rolled hem. you could also sew the sides with a simple seam and cover it with lightweight edge binding if you thought that would be easier.
    Last edited by warbonnetguy; 09-04-2009 at 11:23.

  10. #10
    Senior Member jofish's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by warbonnetguy View Post
    jofish, don't think the felled seam will work in this situation, you might be able to do a felled seam on 3 sides if you do it before you attach the baffles to the second shell, but it's going to make sewing the second side of the baffles on a real PITA, and i don't think it would be possible to sew the final edge with a felled seam at all as you'd be sewing all the way through your quilt.

    easiest is to just do all baffles top and bottom and then sew 3 sides together with a rolled hem, stuff and sew the 4th with a rolled hem. you could also sew the sides with a simple seam and cover it with lightweight edge binding if you thought that would be easier.
    As for the last side felled seam, I was thinking of doing it by hand; indeed that would be a real PITA. Out of curiosity, do you use rolled hems for your Yetis (like the one I just ordered from you )?

    Teedee, I kind of like the idea of draft stoppers - I'll have to look into a good material for that. Did you just use a wide webbing? If so, where did you get it?

    Also, I think I'm gonna stick with the baffles. It may be a pain to actually make the quilt, but I'm worried about shifting/redistribution of the down. I can see the potential advantages of this, but I'm worried that I would unintentionally redistribute the down each time I stuff it. A personal preference, to be sure.

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