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  1. #21
    Senior Member Tarheel Hanger's Avatar
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    I had the same issue when I got my tarp set. At 1st it was to loose then I had it so tight I couldn't adjust it. But afree a few hangs it worked itself out. Works great now!

  2. #22
    Phantom Grappler's Avatar
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    My prusik loops are tied with alpine butterfly loops. Tightened first with the loose ends before trimming and then tightened by ring loading to make it less likely to unravel. I ring load by trying to stretch the loop from inside both ends. All 2.2 zingit . A prusik under tension tends to jam and when not under tension jamming less of a challenge. Good luck.

  3. #23
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    Quote Originally Posted by Phantom Grappler View Post
    My prusik loops are tied with alpine butterfly loops....
    I'm struggling to visualise this, have you got a picture?

  4. #24
    Senior Member
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    Quote Originally Posted by Red Langford View Post
    Am I the only one that uses continuous loops to make my prusiks?
    Nope.

  5. #25
    Phantom Grappler's Avatar
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    MARTYN oops sorry for the confusion. My tarp ridge line has spliced continuous loops for prusik loops which is common except they are all 1/8 amsteel both the loop and the ridge line. And my tarp guy lines are 2.2zingit and 2.2 Zingit prusik loops. These 2.2zingit loops are not spliced but instead are small alpine butterfly loop knots. Maybe you can see them in my utube video Listed under Phantom Grappler and or David Hughes No Knot Tieouts and No Knot Tarp Suspension. I will have a new video soon with a better less complicated no knot no hardware tarp ridge line. I don't remember if there is good detail on the alpine butterfly loops. But they are just a small loop made with a knot and not a splice. Because I don't have a splicing tool for that size cord.

  6. #26
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    Quote Originally Posted by Phantom Grappler View Post
    Maybe you can see them in my utube video...
    Got it, thanks. That's a novel way to rig your gear. I dont think I'd swap my Dutch bling, but it's very innovative, especially if you are working to a tight budget. The 'no knots' thing for me is about simplicity, speed and convenience. Dutch hardware delivers that with a very low weight penalty (if a higher financial penalty). I think if I wasn't using hardware, I would revert to basic prusiks, siberian hitch, taughtline hitch and truckers hitch. They are all dead simple to tie, quick release and work well.
    Last edited by Martyn; 04-17-2015 at 04:00.

  7. #27
    Senior Member MAD777's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by GreatBigDave View Post
    Have you tried a Kleimheist? Perhaps it's uni-directional nature would help.
    I never use prusiks. Always the Kleimheist. Makes much more sense for our application.
    Mike
    "Life is a Project!"

  8. #28
    Senior Member Cadenza's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by MAD777 View Post
    I never use prusiks. Always the Kleimheist. Makes much more sense for our application.

    Absolutely true!
    The Klemheist is best when resistance is in only one direction, and for most applications involving a ridgeline this is the case.

    I use a klemheist on Figure-9 where it ties off to the tree under extreme tension.

    I prefer prusiks where tarp attaches to ridge line and for other items that I want to move along the ridge line because they are easier to release and adjust. They hold well enough for that purpose.

    As mentioned above the prusik should be smaller diameter than the ridge line.
    I find 1.75 mm 3-turn prusik holds just fine on 2.2 ridge line,.....even when new and slick.
    My tarp tie-outs are also 1.75 3-turn prusiks larks headed to tarp with 2.2 tie-out line. This allows me to tension tarp from underneath it instead of going out into the rain.

    I like contrasting colors. On my lighter cuben tarps I use gray Lash-it! 1.75 prusik on yellow Zing-it! 2.2 line.
    On larger/heavier sil tarps I use yellow Zing-it! 1.75 prusik on gray Lash-it! 2.2 tie-out line or on a green amsteel ridge line.

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