Tarp DIY guides - Feedback appreciated

**ripstopbytheroll** · 07-23-2015, 20:07

So I've been working on some new step-by-step instructions for making both hex and winter style tarps with doors. I say I but it's really been myself and Justin (aka hk2001) working together on these. Without him, these may have been possible, but not necessarily made available in this lifetime.

Anyways, I'm looking for some feedback - crap, super crap, too much/not enough detail, things you'd like to see added, etc. This is just a first cut but the meat is there. We do have plans for adding more content, including a video, extra tips/tricks, more design resources, and then obviously adding in the parts that are missing (e.g. panel pulls).

Would love to hear some suggestions and start a discussion. Thanks

HEX12 instructions HERE

WINTER12 instructions HERE

**Japhy Ryder** · 07-23-2015, 20:18

Hey Kyle, Great guides.

I just looked briefly, but two things I noticed.

#1. Any details on how to add re-enforcement patches on the ridgeline for the tie-outs. The two tarps I made, I felt like this was one of my biggest weaknesses.

#2. Aesthetically, I think it looks nicer if you attach the other re-enforcements before the rolled hem.

Just my thoughts.

Edit: sorry I read too quickly. I noticed the note on hemming the patches in. sorry.

**tjayblues** · 07-23-2015, 20:38

Motivates me to start "DIY"ing ... is this a not so subtle sales tactic?

**ripstopbytheroll** · 07-23-2015, 20:50

Originally Posted by Japhy Ryder

Hey Kyle, Great guides.

I just looked briefly, but two things I noticed.

#1. Any details on how to add re-enforcement patches on the ridgeline for the tie-outs. The two tarps I made, I felt like this was one of my biggest weaknesses.

#2. Aesthetically, I think it looks nicer if you attach the other re-enforcements before the rolled hem.

Just my thoughts.

Edit: sorry I read too quickly. I noticed the note on hemming the patches in. sorry.

#1: The process of adding the reinforcement should be the same for ridgeline and ground tie-outs. What did you have trouble with exactly?

**ripstopbytheroll** · 07-23-2015, 21:05

Originally Posted by tjayblues

Motivates me to start "DIY"ing ... is this a not so subtle sales tactic?

Yes motivating you to start is the point! One of my things is trying to lower the barrier to entry when it comes to trying new stuff, in this case making your own tarp. Getting started is more than half the battle. I sucked when I started at DIY. I'm still not the best in the world, but I do enjoy it a lot.

If I can make it less intimidating to start by providing info/resources/what have you, it's a win.

**punkisdead** · 07-23-2015, 21:07

Not quite understanding how Step #3 in the flat felled seam is optional?

**ripstopbytheroll** · 07-23-2015, 21:30

Originally Posted by punkisdead

Not quite understanding how Step #3 in the flat felled seam is optional?

That's just an option. It's how I've always done mine with no problems. Leaves a "nipple" standing up and then you seal the other side.

**Boston** · 07-23-2015, 21:30

Originally Posted by punkisdead

Not quite understanding how Step #3 in the flat felled seam is optional?

Seems he's saying you can just sew a french seam, instead of felling it.

Kyle, FWIW, have you tried this without sealing? It's something I wanted to experiment with, since it's very similar to the bound ridge seam I use, which doesn't require sealing.

A few things I noticed on a quick glance:
1) The drawings aren't fully dimensioned. May be confusing for someone who isn't very technically oriented.
2) The drawings could use a scale indicator (1 box side= 6in)
3) The way you show to cut the fabric generates a lot of waste.
4) You're also instructing to cut twice. Why not mark the cat cut before cutting the first time, and only cut once?

**ripstopbytheroll** · 07-23-2015, 21:57

Originally Posted by Boston

Seems he's saying you can just sew a french seam, instead of felling it.

Kyle, FWIW, have you tried this without sealing? It's something I wanted to experiment with, since it's very similar to the bound ridge seam I use, which doesn't require sealing.

A few things I noticed on a quick glance:
1) The drawings aren't fully dimensioned. May be confusing for someone who isn't very technically oriented.
2) The drawings could use a scale indicator (1 box side= 6in)
3) The way you show to cut the fabric generates a lot of waste.
4) You're also instructing to cut twice. Why not mark the cat cut before cutting the first time, and only cut once?

I have and I personally think it works better than felling if you aren't going to seam seal.

1) You're right and I need to add something like this:

WINTER12-dimensioned.png

2)Will add that.

3) Yes it does. In my head I was trying to make it as straightforward as possible, but in reality it's not that hard to make the initial cuts efficient. Then you're left with 2/3 of a yard to make your sacks instead of odd shapes. I'll look at changing that.

4) Yeah we could. I guess I was looking for a clean break point where you could decide to do cat-cuts or not.

Thanks for the suggestions.

**latriper** · 07-23-2015, 22:15

Hey Kyle,
The pages look great!
Just a couple of observations.

First, I agree with Boston on cutting once on the cat curves. I make my marks with a grease pencil and connect the marks. Find the center point of that line and measure down (in) how ever deep the cat cut is. You might include the string method of finding the curve. It is pretty simple and gives good results.

Second, I always thought you seam seal the outside. Sealing the inside could let water penetrate the fabric from the outside only to be stopped by the seam sealer on the inside. Sealing the outside would prevent any penetration.
I have also heard of people dusting the areas that have been sealed (after the alloted curing time) with baby powder or corn starch to reduce the tackiness. Just an option.
Really glad you are adding this type of content!