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  1. #1
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    Sewing Tyvek and our friend the basting stitch *PICS*

    There are many different opinions on Tyvek home wrap and whether it can be sewn or needs to be taped, or both. I came into a good quantity of Tyvek home wrap for free a few weeks ago and have been experimenting with sewing it. Some sources will tell you that you need a special wedge-shaped needle that actually cuts slits in the material, but I am here to tell you after rigorous testing that Tyvek holds up very, very well with a regular sewing setup. I sewed test pieces together over and over again testing different stitch lengths and patterns and I'm here just letting you know what turned out the best for overall (human pulling) strength on stitched seams.
    Below I have a few pictures of a small stuff sack I made for my 9x11 silnylon tarp. I used Gutermann Mara 70 thread and a Schmetz Microtex 80/12 needle. I have a 70's model Kenmore machine and used the basting stitch for all the hems/seams. The great thing about Tyvek is it does not need a rolled hem anywhere (unless you prefer) because any way it's cut the edge is finished and will not fray. I also made a fitted top cover for my WBRR from Tyvek, but I am waiting to tweak a few details before posting it. Hope this helps someone and happy hanging!


  2. #2
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    I sew tyvek using the same setup I sew 1.9oz ripstop. So far all my gear has hung together with no issue.

  3. #3
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    Quote Originally Posted by geneaut View Post
    I sew tyvek using the same setup I sew 1.9oz ripstop. So far all my gear has hung together with no issue.
    Yes same here... Tyvek HW is 1.85oz according to the DuPont Website... For those gram weenies out there!

  4. #4
    Senior Member Ramblinrev's Avatar
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    There are good reasons to use a leather needle (the wedge you refer to above). You are correct, it is not required but that does not mean it does not offer some benefits. Tyvek is a non-woven material. It is very tough and takes a lot of abuse. It also dulls sharps in nothing flat. If you don't mind sewing with a dull needle, knock your self out. If you want to get the longest use out of you tools, a leather needle is recommended. Dull needles, particularly sharps can develop a burr on the tip. This can cause all sorts of nasty problems in terms of stitch quality. You do not ever want to use a dull needle on lightweight wovens because you can snag the threads and that does not yield a nice product. A leather needle also is less wear and tear on the machine when using a heavy duty non- woven material. Granted, you will not trash your machine with the extra effort but you will notice a difference.

    Tyvek appeals to some folks because it is easily and securely taped using the proper tyvek tape. That means no need to seal stitch lines.

    While the set up used for normal gear making is adequate, it may not be the best option if you are looking for optimal results. The key warning here is never use a leather needle on woven fabrics. That is not good. Regular needles can be used on non-wovens but with possible limitations.
    I may be slow... But I sure am gimpy.

    "Bless you child, when you set out to thread a needle don't hold the thread still and fetch the needle up to it; hold the needle still and poke the thread at it; that's the way a woman most always does, but a man always does t'other way."
    Mrs. Loftus to Huck Finn

    We Don't Sew... We Make Gear! video series

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  5. #5
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    Quote Originally Posted by Ramblinrev View Post
    There are good reasons to use a leather needle (the wedge you refer to above). You are correct, it is not required but that does not mean it does not offer some benefits. Tyvek is a non-woven material. It is very tough and takes a lot of abuse. It also dulls sharps in nothing flat. If you don't mind sewing with a dull needle, knock your self out. If you want to get the longest use out of you tools, a leather needle is recommended. Dull needles, particularly sharps can develop a burr on the tip. This can cause all sorts of nasty problems in terms of stitch quality. You do not ever want to use a dull needle on lightweight wovens because you can snag the threads and that does not yield a nice product. A leather needle also is less wear and tear on the machine when using a heavy duty non- woven material. Granted, you will not trash your machine with the extra effort but you will notice a difference.

    Tyvek appeals to some folks because it is easily and securely taped using the proper tyvek tape. That means no need to seal stitch lines.

    While the set up used for normal gear making is adequate, it may not be the best option if you are looking for optimal results. The key warning here is never use a leather needle on woven fabrics. That is not good. Regular needles can be used on non-wovens but with possible limitations.
    Valuable information... Thanks

  6. #6
    Senior Member hikenbike's Avatar
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    I've done a fair amount of sewing tyvek and I ended up using a much longer stitch length than you are displaying. I found the shorter length ends up making too many perforations resulting in the 'postage' stamp effect. I also started taping up the seams with mylar tape. Works really well. Looking forward to seeing your cover creation....

  7. #7
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    Quote Originally Posted by hikenbike View Post
    I've done a fair amount of sewing tyvek and I ended up using a much longer stitch length than you are displaying. I found the shorter length ends up making too many perforations resulting in the 'postage' stamp effect. I also started taping up the seams with mylar tape. Works really well. Looking forward to seeing your cover creation....
    What stitch length do you use? The basting stitch is as long as I can go on this machine... Ends up being about 4-5 stitches per inch.

  8. #8
    Senior Member hikenbike's Avatar
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    Seems about what I used. Perhaps just appears shorter in the pics

  9. #9
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    IMG_1810.jpg

    Stuff sack for my 10' white ripstop hammock. One of about 8 tyvek stuff sacks I've made.

    I have a nice ( to me ) double ended Tyvek sack I've made for one of my orange hammocks with a bug net. I'll find a photo of that somewhere.

    Rev hit on some of the great tips concerning sewing tyvek. I wouldn't have thought about having a special needle for it, so I will implement that change.

    I bought one of those 3' x 150' rolls at Home Depot using a gift card so I may never run out. In addition to stuff sacks I've made the following:

    > wallets
    > ridgeline organizer
    > bivy sack
    > hammock booties
    > drawstring backpack
    > sleeping bag sack
    > phone case
    > Kindle Fire sleeve

  10. #10
    New Member androidm's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by geneaut View Post
    IMG_1810.jpg

    Stuff sack for my 10' white ripstop hammock. One of about 8 tyvek stuff sacks I've made.

    I have a nice ( to me ) double ended Tyvek sack I've made for one of my orange hammocks with a bug net. I'll find a photo of that somewhere.

    Rev hit on some of the great tips concerning sewing tyvek. I wouldn't have thought about having a special needle for it, so I will implement that change.

    I bought one of those 3' x 150' rolls at Home Depot using a gift card so I may never run out. In addition to stuff sacks I've made the following:

    > wallets
    > ridgeline organizer
    > bivy sack
    > hammock booties
    > drawstring backpack
    > sleeping bag sack
    > phone case
    > Kindle Fire sleeve
    Sweet list of homemade gear geneaut! I would love to see some pics and instructions for the Tyvek wallet!

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