Questions About Making a Continuous Loop

[Phantom Grappler]

I made continuous loops with locked brummels and spliced back into the same side they originated--and hung for two years--being supported by locked brummels for the most part. Since then I've made new continuous loops with locked brummels and crossed the lines so lines continue onto the other side rather than folding back on themselves. I don't do the pass through buries with stitching because I don't want to stitch--even though that way is probably strongest. So at least several ways can work for hammocks.

[TominMN]

I made continuous loops with locked brummels and spliced back into the same side they originated--and hung for two years--being supported by locked brummels for the most part...

I would contend, that with that configuration, you were supported solely by the locked Brummel. Speaks to the strength of the (I assume) Amsteel.

... Since then I've made new continuous loops with locked brummels and crossed the lines so lines continue onto the other side rather than folding back on themselves. ...

Unless I'm mistaken, there is no "lock" in that scenario. I wish there were. I'd love to see a photo. I used to believe that it might be possible to have a locked Brummel in a CL by somehow doing various inversions in the same way that you can do so with an eye splice when there is only access to the working end. I can practically do THAT with my eyes closed now (no pun intended.) I've come to believe, as Aero-hiker has stated, that it is "topologically impossible" to accomplish a locked Brummel on a CL. I wish that were not so but I have succumbed to that truism.

[Phantom Grappler]

I thought I did a locked brummel and had lines crossed so they were not folded back on themselves--but I could be mistaken, thanks TominMN.

[TominMN]

Just my effort to de-myth this whole thing and have people make the best possible gear.

[Phantom Grappler]

I'm almost positive that I did locked brummel and did bury on other side, so that each side was not folded back into their original side.
I remember going to great effort making sure after LB to make buries not spliced back into themselves.
My finished splice did not look very neat. As AmSteel had to be contorted. I went to that effort because I was reading another thread on Hammock Forums about the same topic. When I realized I'd hung for two years on locked brummels with a cosmetic splice back to the same side. I enjoy the free exchange of ideas and I don't get mad if my ideas are different than others. Since I've noticed after further study that my ideas did not work as well as I had dreamed them to be.

[Phantom Grappler]

I will watch above videos when I get into town. I'll have coffee first.

[TominMN]

I enjoy the free exchange of ideas and I don't get mad if my ideas are different than others. Since I've noticed after further study that my ideas did not work as well as I had dreamed them to be.

We all fall on our faces a few times while learning to walk. I'm surprised I have most of my teeth and that my nose isn't flatter.

[Jucee]

Didn't mean to open a can of worms; as a newbie I wanted to clear up some confusion on my part, and I think, after all the discussion, that was achieved. As TominMN stated, "de-myth this whole thing and have people make the best possible gear."
I thank all of you for your input on the topic.
As a very short summary I see it this way;
1. After cutting to the appropriate length, taper the ends.
2. Insert your splicing tool, push down the center of cordage towards the short end, and exit. Measurements are important here.
3. Pull end through to create a bury. Repeat for other side.
4. Finish off with a few threads or some heat shrink (obviously heat shrink would have gone on after step 1).

[Boston]

I'm almost positive that I did locked brummel and did bury on other side, so that each side was not folded back into their original side.

When you do this, the "lock" doesn't actually lock. It's basically the same as a standard splice. Which, like I said above, really doesn't need anything backing it up. It mostly prevents purposefully pulling the splice apart. I've never had one accidentally come apart.

You can see this for yourself. Make a locked brummel splice (loop on the end of a cord) but don't bury the tail. Pull on the loop and it's locked - it doesn't come apart. Now the the same "locked brummel" pattern with the CL, and don't bury the tails. Pull on the loop and it will come apart.

[Phantom Grappler]

I just now did a locked brummel and splice, with line crossing to other side ( not folded back to side it originated). If your locked brummel can be pulled apart by pulling on loop from inside ( like putting fingers inside a rubber band and stretching rubber band) ; then there are two possibilities: 1 locked brummel is done backwards and was never locked in the first place or 2 locked brummel was done correctly and it was partially undone by splicing back through the same entry points used by locked brummel.
Several ways will work and the way I use does not test as the strongest way. And the way I use--splice does not look as neat. That alone tells me that the way I've used is weaker than the pass through method (no brummel, no locked brummel) with stitching, allowing the strong splice to do a great job.
Thanks for your exchange of ideas TominMN and all y'all hammock hangers. I'm sorry for the lack of pictures. And when I post ideas that are too far out there, it's great to get feedback to bring me back to reality.