Questions About Making a Continuous Loop

**TominMN** · 12-18-2015, 09:08

Originally Posted by Phantom Grappler

I just now did a locked brummel and splice, with line crossing to other side ( not folded back to side it originated). If your locked brummel can be pulled apart by pulling on loop from inside ( like putting fingers inside a rubber band and stretching rubber band) ; then there are two possibilities: 1 locked brummel is done backwards and was never locked in the first place or 2 locked brummel was done correctly and it was partially undone by splicing back through the same entry points used by locked brummel.
Several ways will work and the way I use does not test as the strongest way. And the way I use--splice does not look as neat. That alone tells me that the way I've used is weaker than the pass through method (no brummel, no locked brummel) with stitching, allowing the strong splice to do a great job.
Thanks for your exchange of ideas TominMN and all y'all hammock hangers. I'm sorry for the lack of pictures. And when I post ideas that are too far out there, it's great to get feedback to bring me back to reality.

I really would love to see a photo or sketch. Pretty or not, if you have something that's working, please share.

**Phantom Grappler** · 12-18-2015, 09:17

Jucee the method you describe is probably the strongest. Plus one on the stitching, not sure about heat shrink tubing. Be sure to use a long enough buries as that's all that is keeping you in the air. The stitching is there to keep accidental un-splicing while not under tension.

**Phantom Grappler** · 12-18-2015, 09:27

Sorry no pix as that is another of my weaknesses. I did a locked brummel (that holds all by itself, good enough to hang with nothing added, if a locked brummel can be pulled apart by pulling on inside of loop with fingers, then that "locked brummel is backwards and is not really a locked brummel).
Then I spliced both buries with entry points inside the loop and did not use the same entry points in locked brummel to make sure I was not changing locked brummel. It's all great fun!

**TominMN** · 12-18-2015, 11:13

Originally Posted by Phantom Grappler

Sorry no pix as that is another of my weaknesses. I did a locked brummel (that holds all by itself, good enough to hang with nothing added, if a locked brummel can be pulled apart by pulling on inside of loop with fingers, then that "locked brummel is backwards and is not really a locked brummel).
Then I spliced both buries with entry points inside the loop and did not use the same entry points in locked brummel to make sure I was not changing locked brummel. It's all great fun!

But you do vids...

**Phantom Grappler** · 12-18-2015, 11:16

Possible in next video, but unlikely. I get my techie friend to film and upload to YouTube and the I get my friend TallPaul to put on Hammock Forums. I don't know how to do any of that.

**Jucee** · 12-21-2015, 09:26

PG, on thread no. 32 from you; it's not my method-it's what everyone has probably been doing already. I was simply questioning a step that I've seen in several instructional videos on making CL's and not finding it necessary to pass the tail all the way thru when you're just pulling it back in. BUT, as a newbie making my first CL's the step actually helps with understanding the whole "method." After I made a few practice CL's and understood the measurements, where to insert and exit my splicing tool, that's when I realized I didn't need to do that.
Heat shrink is used in place of stitching; to prevent accidental un-splicing. Again, none of these are my ideas but I like the response that my question generated.

On thread no. 31; I think we would all like to see photos.

**TominMN** · 12-21-2015, 10:57

Maybe TP could take a pic of PG's CL(?)...

**Phantom Grappler** · 12-21-2015, 22:31

There are at least 3 ways to make continuous loops--and they all 3 work for hammocks. The first video on this series of posts does not have a completely locked brummel-it locks when pulling the tag ends but does not lock when pulling from inside the loop. And it works just fine. I have friends that use this method successfully for several years.
The second video on this series of posts does not use locked brummel--it uses stitching to keep from getting undone while not under tension--stitching with no brummel is probably strongest.
I used Grogg Sling as seen on app Grogg Knots. It has a real locked brummel and I used it for two years. After reading posts on Hammock Forums about Grogg Sling I stopped using Grogg Sling --even though it worked fine--the posts said the tag ends were folded back into their original side--so I was hanging on locked brummels for two years and spliced were mostly cosmetic.
So I spliced new continuous loops-first I used locked brummel exactly like Grogg Sling in Grogg Knot app. Then I did not splice tag ends into same sides as Grogg Sling--I turned the AmSteel tag ends 180 degrees and spliced them in opposite side--that way they are crossed rather than folded back into original sides. I thought this was stronger--and now have doubts.
All above continuous loops work for hammocks and all have been successful over time.
Sure their is a strength rating--some methods make stronger loops. Barring catastrophic failures, I think all methods that work will continue to be in the pack.

**TominMN** · 12-22-2015, 00:19

Thanks for this. I now understand your CL.

My feeling about #1 is that the pass-throughs are not only accomplishing nothing, they actually weaken the splice.

Stitching is best, but I don't like how it's done in #2.

I go back to my statement that the reason we aren't seeing failures attests to the margins we employ in cord size and just how strong Dyneema can be in smaller cordage sizes.

CL splices in anything much smaller than 7/64" (2.5mm) Amsteel need to be picture-perfect to be safe.

**Phantom Grappler** · 12-22-2015, 05:46

On Grogg Knots app with Grogg Splice there is an info section written by Dan Lehman of International Guild of Knot Tyers. Great info--I did not understand the last line about Brion Toss rebraided brummel splice. I think there is a book on splicing AmSteel etc by Brion and Margie Toss. I've not read it and would have a hard time understanding it. I watch animated videos of the inversions they make when eye splicing and don't have access to the other end of rope. I'm too lazy to follow their technique when it's hard for me to understand.