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  1. #21
    Member jwygralak67's Avatar
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    Thank you for sharing these plans. The amount of detail is fantastic.
    I'm about to start work on my quilt kit from Ripstop by the Roll and this has exactly the information I needed.

  2. #22
    Senior Member FLScouthanger's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by jwygralak67 View Post
    Thank you for sharing these plans. The amount of detail is fantastic.
    I'm about to start work on my quilt kit from Ripstop by the Roll and this has exactly the information I needed.
    Hope your quilt meets your expectations. BTW, since I posted these plans I have made a couple additional quilts. I recommend omitting all the darting called out in the plans and have the short edge (head and foot ends) shock cord channel NOT have the opening in the middle; just make it one continuous channel. Additionally, I have found the one continuous shock cord channel on the long edges is overkill. I have since started just sewing on 5 grosgrain loops evenly spaced along those edges. These are just available to use to fine tune the fit. Furthermore, I have found there is no need to run a continuous piece of shock cord thru the long edges--just go from lineloc to lineloc on each end. Good luck and don't forget to post pics of the finished product.

  3. #23
    New Member jgray's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by FLScouthanger View Post
    BTW, since I posted these plans I have made a couple additional quilts. I recommend omitting all the darting called out in the plans and have the short edge (head and foot ends) shock cord channel NOT have the opening in the middle; just make it one continuous channel. Additionally, I have found the one continuous shock cord channel on the long edges is overkill. I have since started just sewing on 5 grosgrain loops evenly spaced along those edges. These are just available to use to fine tune the fit. Furthermore, I have found there is no need to run a continuous piece of shock cord thru the long edges--just go from lineloc to lineloc on each end. Good luck and don't forget to post pics of the finished product.
    If you are taking out all the darts then how are you making the differential cut outer layer match up with the inner layer and Apex layer?

    I am testing out my UQ completed recently (mostly with your plans and RSBTR) this weekend. I had already made the channel on the short ends just one long channel with the cord lock on one end. I will post pictures after my hang tomorrow night. I am testing all my gear for my thru-hike on the Border Route Trail in the BWCA in a month. Hoping I can get the UQ adjusted correctly so I stay nice and warm.

    Thanks for these instructions as they were vital in my being able to get the UQ completed!

  4. #24
    Senior Member Elementalscape's Avatar
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    My method, evolved-
    Cut inner/outer layers to (the same) length.
    Cut these down to the (same) unfinished width - these long cutoffs will become the channels - side channels will be perfectly sized after hemming, cut the two other pieces for the end channels to the full width which will make them sized correctly after hemming. (I hem these with a triple fold to add a little durability.)
    Sew channels to inner layer. Doing this not only makes it easier to assemble the final layers, it also reduces the dimensions of the inner layer by a small, uniform amount.



    When assembling everything, pin each corner first - then simply take up the little extra with each and every pin. And there's your differential. It's not much, but does the trick well enough.

    Having done both loops and channels, I much prefer the effectiveness of channels. Loops often cause bunching/gaps right in the middle.
    For the end channels - definitely put the cord locks on one side, not in the middle. (One lock per end channel.)
    As for not using side channels - I've gotten away with doing this on lighter quilts, although all my quilts now have them. The 'snugging' effect of side channels is beneficial.

    For 'secondary' suspension I use the JRB method. (Vid below)
    Prusik attached to primary suspension (pink) and tied to the sewn loop to avoid accordion effect. The loop also holds the end channel (green) cord lock in place.





    Using these methods I can get a full length, 30° Climashield quilt down to the mid twenties in ounces, including suspension and stuff sack.

    YMMV

  5. #25
    Member jwygralak67's Avatar
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    Ok, stop giving me new ideas. Every time I'm about to start, I find a new way to do it.

    I like the continuous channels on all edges. But rather than cutting the fabric off and sewing it back on, I'm just doing a wide rolled channel.
    Still going to put a grosgrain loop at each corner. But should I put cordlocks on the loops?

  6. #26
    Senior Member Speedogomer's Avatar
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    Any issues with the Clima shield getting stuck in the feed wheels? I have had problems with just regular fabric getting stuck in mine, I'd think the Clima shield would get sucked up right away.

    Every day is a good day.



  7. #27
    Senior Member FLScouthanger's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Speedogomer View Post
    Any issues with the Clima shield getting stuck in the feed wheels? I have had problems with just regular fabric getting stuck in mine, I'd think the Clima shield would get sucked up right away.
    I have never had any problems with the insulation migrating down into the bobbin area or getting tangled around the feed dogs. That said, I do compress the insulation and use lots of pins when sewing the perimeter seams. I've also seen someone's advice of using strips of newspaper or the like between the feed dogs and insulation and then injecting the seam. Once finished, you simply tear off the newspaper from the perforations caused by the needle.

  8. #28
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    Thank you for these plans. As a traditional quilter, it was difficult for me to think about the underquilt in these terms even after a great deal of research. (Traditional quilts are stacked with the insulation on the inside then bound with binding--so the 'envelope method' was hard for me to envision even after watching several Youtube videos.) I rec'd my 6 yards Hyper D 1.0 and 3 yards of Climashield 5.0 from RBTR yesterday (which I ordered late Monday--WOW!) for two 3/4 UQs. I'll be using some SIL Nylon I picked up a JoAnn's (at 40 percent off) for the channels and sewing them on before creating the 'quilt sammich'. I can't wait to stitch them up and see how far into the fall we can go comfortably (darn skeeters will carry you away around here this time of year). And for about $45 each!

  9. #29
    Senior Member kitsapcowboy's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by jwygralak67 View Post
    ...I like the continuous channels on all edges. But rather than cutting the fabric off and sewing it back on, I'm just doing a wide rolled channel...
    I do too. On my recent quilt build, instead of trimming the shell blank down to the desired width and then reattaching strips to form the continuous side channels on the long edges, I simply made an accordion fold out of the excess material to form a suspension channel on each side and taped everything in place on the right side of the shell blank with making tape to hold it while stitching the material stack together inside out. When I flipped the quilt right side out, my suspension channels were seen neatly into the seam without much fuss.
    Quote Originally Posted by KansasGirl View Post
    Thank you for these plans. As a traditional quilter, it was difficult for me to think about the underquilt in these terms even after a great deal of research. (Traditional quilts are stacked with the insulation on the inside then bound with binding--so the 'envelope method' was hard for me to envision even after watching several Youtube videos.) I rec'd my 6 yards Hyper D 1.0 and 3 yards of Climashield 5.0 from RBTR yesterday (which I ordered late Monday--WOW!) for two 3/4 UQs. I'll be using some SIL Nylon I picked up a JoAnn's (at 40 percent off) for the channels and sewing them on before creating the 'quilt sammich'. I can't wait to stitch them up and see how far into the fall we can go comfortably (darn skeeters will carry you away around here this time of year). And for about $45 each!
    Welcome, KansasGirl. That sounds like a very nice, very efficient DIY build. Please me sure to document your process and your results and post them to the forum. You will have lots and lots of little construction details to decide on with your Underquilts; you may build them exactly as laid out here or you may make some departures to this method. Everyone benefits from hearing about your experiences with what worked or didn't work for you...
    Last edited by kitsapcowboy; 09-02-2016 at 20:55.

  10. #30
    New Member
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    Quote Originally Posted by kitsapcowboy View Post
    I do to. On my recent quilt build, instead of trimming the shell blank down to the desired width and then reattaching strips to form the continuous side channels on the long edges, I simply made an accordion fold out of the excess material to form a suspension channel on each side and taped everything in place on the right side of the shell blank with making tape to hold it while stitching the material stack together inside out. When I flipped the quilt right side out, my suspension channels were seen neatly into the seam without much fuss.
    Does this not leave the channel with the ends being just the raw edge?

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