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  1. #21
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    Quote Originally Posted by BrRabbit View Post
    I wonder if anyone can recommend a strong thermally-conductive adhesive (epoxy) designed to work on higher temperatures than 300F under $15?
    I'm going to keep testing this one. I DO fear that after a nice long burn I'm going to pick up my Imusa and the heat syncs will just fall off... because it DOES say that 150C is it's upper limit. We all know that fire is somewhere far above 330 degrees Farenheit/America. I'll keep trying, but I'm so extremely happy with the results so far!

  2. #22
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    Quote Originally Posted by Trees company View Post
    Do you really use ever clear? I guess that is a good use its too strong for me. Neat idea by the way. I wonder if you could make a heat sync/pot stand somehow if the glue doesn't hold up.
    Sir. This is a brilliant thought. Before I ordered my heat sync glue I had this fantasy that the heat sync itself could be a wind-screen. That perhaps I could set the heat sync directly onto my stove and it would A) channel the flames upwards safely amidst the wind and B) transfer ALL KINDS of heat directly to the water or mixture in my camp pot. In my very first tests outside it simply failed every time. The heat sync would snuff out the fire.

    I've since retreated to a more classical approach of using it at a distance to absorb way more heat. Looking at it now, you (we) may still have an idea there but it would definitely be an accessory to a specific stove/fuel apparatus, and might not be as universal a solution as the one I've ended up with thus far.

    Don't stop thinking, let's try the options! - Rocket

  3. #23
    Senior Member sidneyhornblower's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Rock-It View Post
    Also, I'm pretty proud of my hi-tech Imusa lid! It's made entirely from a CD, a little circle of reflectix, and duct tape.

    Attachment 126577
    That's genius! And I'm gonna steal that idea.
    "...the height of hammock snobbery!"

  4. #24
    Senior Member Snowball's Avatar
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    This is a cool idea.
    However I think the designs have to be pared with specific stoves.
    If a stove burn in a ring and no flame in the center I can’t see the benefit of having Heatsink in the center. Heatsink will do one of two things. It will distribute heat if there is a heat source but if there isn’t a heat source it will try to cool the area and then its wasted weight and bulk.

    Another way to do it could be forget the glue and make it a separate unit you put between the stove and the pot so it will act as a heat distributor (flat bottom pot is required for best result because of the contact surface).
    heat D.png
    just a thought
    If there is nothing left to learn it’s time to die.
    Live and learn.

  5. #25
    Senior Member Trees company's Avatar
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    I never thought of using ever clear for multiple uses like that but if a party breaks out in camp you ain't having breakfast. Well you probably wouldn't want breakfast after that.
    visualize whirled peas.

  6. #26
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    Quote Originally Posted by Snowball View Post
    This is a cool idea.
    However I think the designs have to be pared with specific stoves.
    If a stove burn in a ring and no flame in the center I can’t see the benefit of having Heatsink in the center. Heatsink will do one of two things. It will distribute heat if there is a heat source but if there isn’t a heat source it will try to cool the area and then its wasted weight and bulk.

    Another way to do it could be forget the glue and make it a separate unit you put between the stove and the pot so it will act as a heat distributor (flat bottom pot is required for best result because of the contact surface).
    heat D.png
    just a thought

    My old pot cozy still fits her like a glove so I'm not worried about that.

    Perfect contact is so essential, but this definitely sounds like a follow-up experiment!

  7. #27
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    Quote Originally Posted by Trees company View Post
    I never thought of using ever clear for multiple uses like that but if a party breaks out in camp you ain't having breakfast. Well you probably wouldn't want breakfast after that.
    I tend to bring plenty! I transfer everclear into those 375mL plastic flask-shaped bottles that crappy diluted vodka comes in. It's miraculous how a full size liquor bottle fits entirely into just two tiny and lightweight bottles. I've obviously soaked the old label off and written Spring Break in its place, because proper labeling and all.
    Attached Images Attached Images

  8. #28
    Senior Member BrRabbit's Avatar
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    Hmmmm, I ran some more math. 2*7$7 (for heat sinks) + $6 (for the glue) + $6 (for the IMUSA).... = $26 ?
    Now, it doesn't seem such a no-brainer... Although savings in fuel are impressive, if the glue holds long enough.

  9. #29
    SilvrSurfr's Avatar
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    I just don't think the glue would hold up - better off using a sautering gun? I think that would come off eventually too.
    "A foolish consistency is the hobgoblin of little minds." Ralph Waldo Emerson

  10. #30
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    Quote Originally Posted by Rock-It View Post
    I tend to bring plenty! I transfer everclear into those 375mL plastic flask-shaped bottles that crappy diluted vodka comes in. It's miraculous how a full size liquor bottle fits entirely into just two tiny and lightweight bottles. I've obviously soaked the old label off and written Spring Break in its place, because proper labeling and all.
    I tested Everclear as a fuel - nothing wrong with it. However, it's an expensive option as a fuel. I probably pay $30 for 750 ml (25.36 ounces) at the liquor store, but denatured alcohol is $8 for 32 fluid ounces (946 ml). So it's .04 cents per milliliter for Everclear, and .008 cents per milliliter for denatured alcohol? Um, I think I'm gonna cook with denatured alcohol!

    Besides, I don't want anybody (including me) drinking my fuel.
    "A foolish consistency is the hobgoblin of little minds." Ralph Waldo Emerson

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