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  1. #1
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    Alternative descender ring suspension questions

    Hey HF, I was brainstorming about different suspension setups for a new hammock, and remember stumbling across something like the picture below. I couldn't find any info on it in my research so I had a few questions because it does seem to solve several problems that I have with whoopies in that it drastically shortens the point between adjustment and the hammock allowing me to save about a foot or so on both sides which was the distance between the locked brummel and where the whoopie ajustment exits thus giving me more flexibility on trees that are closer together and also creating a drip stop.

    My questions were:
    1. Is this viable, will it hold my weight?
    2. How many loops would be needed?
    3. Does it create any damage to the amsteel?
    4. Any damage to the descender ring which is rated at 14kN?
    5. Does the way I have it looped through the sewn end and larks headed to the ring decrease the force exerted on the loops locking the line?

    Last edited by Hammonkey; 03-22-2016 at 18:01.

  2. #2
    Senior Member goobie's Avatar
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    Google single line suspension. It you can find, and read through, the threads there is a ton of useful info. I've used a similar system, with 3 wraps IIRC.

    1. I don't see why it wouldn't hold you, if your using SMC descended ring or similar. Which #4 says you are
    2. 3 or 4 wraps from what I remember
    3. It will flatten the Amsteel where it's being compressed on the ring. I'm not sure if this is necessarily harmful or cosmetic.
    4. If it's climbing rated, no

  3. #3
    Intimidator's Avatar
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    I think foxpoop did something like this with a caabiner once.. not sure though. do a search for his profile and see if you can find it

  4. #4
    pgibson's Avatar
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    Goobies #3 point is spot on. It has been tested and was a topic of a lot of discussion a few years back. The findings from some of the most technically inclined folks that have ever participated here....literally a quantum physicist for one....is that the compression on the line will significantly weaken the line. There are a few ways to do what you have there but amsteel does not hold up well long term to compression....it's just not made to work in that way.
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  5. #5
    Senior Member
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    Quote Originally Posted by pgibson View Post
    Goobies #3 point is spot on. It has been tested and was a topic of a lot of discussion a few years back. The findings from some of the most technically inclined folks that have ever participated here....literally a quantum physicist for one....is that the compression on the line will significantly weaken the line. There are a few ways to do what you have there but amsteel does not hold up well long term to compression....it's just not made to work in that way.
    This is what I was suspicious of and you confirmed that. I keep trying to get closer and closer to my ideal suspension setup, which would include the following:

    1. Minimize the distance between adjustment points to reduce the minimum distance between trees I can hang
    2. Keep things lighter than using webbing and cinch buckles
    3. Doesn't cinch down the end of the hammock like using a girth hitch through the sewn channel. I want to experiment with having the hammock hang loose to reduce some of the tension in the sides of the hammock body.
    4. Allow the hammock to be easily detatched.
    5. Doesn't weaken/damage the hammock or suspension components (I'm 245lbs)

  6. #6
    Senior Member mophead's Avatar
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    Maybe give something like this a try?

    unnamed.png
    image2.png

    Three (or more) turns around the ring, tie a slippery half hitch, then stick some sort of toggle in the loop. The friction created by the three wraps take a lot of load off of the knot, so little was left I could use a carbon arrow toggle. I used this some last year when I was 230-235 and it worked beautifully.

    Here's a link to a diagram:https://www.hammockforums.net/forum/...l=1#post251665

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