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  1. #11
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    Quote Originally Posted by sqidmark View Post
    I also think it would be easiest to lay the whole thing on the ground between trees to set the crude adjustments before raising it.
    My entire point of this topic was to keep everything OFF the ground while setting up & packing :-D

    Anyways, I've ordered a set of these rings, so I'll report back when they get here in 3-ish weeks (well probably end of july then, when I'm back from holiday and finally have my blackbird!)

  2. #12
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    I have some rings in my amazon cart but haven't pulled the trigger yet.

    We spent last night with some NJ crazies at Batona campground. I don't care what anybody else says, though they may be crazy they're alright by us! Anyhow, we arrived kinda late and fumbled considerably getting setup. It took an eternity. One of the problems was getting the tarp centered with the double wasps. That this was somewhat cumbersome was not unforeseen, but I didn't predict it would take sooo much juggling. An additional negative of this setup was that if the wasps were any more than two inches or so from the d-ring, the tarp would hang down below the crl much more than normal. That we were using a spreader bar only exacerbated this effect. Bottom line is that double wasps are out.

    Once home, I set about finding another solution. Decided to try klemheists again, only this time I wasn't going to use soft shackles. I get really frustrated installing/removing those teeny tiny soft shackles and that's probably one reason why I've been less than enthusiastic with the prusik's. Sure, if the prusik's work well then ya don't have to keep messin' with it. Mine didn't work so well. I had a spare set of Dutch hooks so I rigged 'em into my klemheists to allow for easy removal, otherwise I'd have just used double fisherman's. On the first test it held very well, very nearly as well as the wasps. Good enough anyway. I'm going to set it up again after dinner and maybe leave it up overnight to see if it loosens like the prusik's. I likely won't be staying out tonight though.

  3. #13
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    Left it set up last night. The klemheist's didn't budge. But then there was no one getting in and out and no wind so...

    I ran the crl through the d-rings this time since I had sooo much drop the night before with the wasp setup. Figured it can't hurt. If for some reason I decide to keep using the Dutch Clips, I'll splice on with locked brummels and the same for the loop at the other end.
    tarp-klemheist-dutchclip-a.jpg

  4. #14
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    You quitter, you went back to knots! Looks nice though!

    I'm waiting for my hardware, but results won't be in for another month orso
    I've also tried passing the CRL through the rings on my tarp or just over them, and saw the sag you experienced. I since put it through the rings every time :-)

  5. #15
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    Quote Originally Posted by massis View Post
    You quitter, you went back to knots! Looks nice though!...
    Yes, but at least it still uses bling. I don't know when I might get around to pushing the amazon button, so I may try making some pvc rings in the mean time. There's a thread here somewhere about that.

  6. #16
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    Yesterday the 1.8mm reflective dyneema line from Dutch which I won on the forum arrived (which is bloody fast!).

    Couldn't help and play around with my first attempt at splicing, and made this:
    UCR.jpg

    A short UCR with a CL on the end, and yes I buried a 2mm line in a 1.8mm dyneema line, which seems to work just fine.
    Slides around super easy, even when the line is taught. Once I put some load on it however, it won't budge at all. Going to do another one for the other end and try them out this weekend if weather allows, but my hopes are up, this is working awesome so far!
    Unlike the prussik, this is knotless (ok, not quite hardware either...) and can't come undone. Just put up the ridgeline fully tensioned, clip in the tarp and slide until it's taught.

    I'll probably change it slightly though, to have a longer bury and a small permanent knot on the end to prevent fraying and add even more grip.

    I'm even considering experimenting with a dogbone UCR, so that I can attach my tarp to one side and the CRL itself to the other, effectively using Derek's 2-microbiner CRL but without losing tension once I remove the tarp.
    Last edited by massis; 06-22-2016 at 06:19.

  7. #17
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    I know that others have tried using whoopies for the crl, but that doesn't seem to work out so well. I do realize you're only using this in place of the prusik. You can whip the loose end to eliminate fraying and also increase grip to the point where you may be able to keep the device on the short side. The effect would be much like in this whoopie/loopie sling thread. To whip the 1.8mm cord, I wonder if .9mm blind cord would work well. Yeah, definitely use a small loop. I'd suggest connecting to the tarp d-ring with a micro s-biner or small split ring or tiny tacblades soft shackle. These work pretty well made out of zing-it. I'm going to tinker with your idea tonight.

    One thing I wonder about though, is under very windy conditions will the constant ebbing cause these to loosen like a prusik anyway? The whipping may prevent that though, depending on how tight it's tied.

    UPDATE:
    I did a bit of experimenting at my desk with some zing-it, lash-it and 1.8mm poly blind cord. The bury is about 3" as seen in the photo. I'll scare up some .9mm blind cord later, however, the 1.8 does provide a good gripping surface for making adjustments. Wrapping the appropriate ends around my fingers a couple of times and pulling as hard as I could, the only slippage was in my fingers. It may not need a 3" bury. More experimenting ahead.
    crl-ucr-tarp-adjuster1.jpg
    Last edited by sqidmark; 06-22-2016 at 09:14.

  8. #18
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    If I look at holding strength right now, it won't need to be much longer, even though the bury's only 3" orso. Yesterday I had my wife try to move the UCR with full force, didn't move even the slightest bit. Seeing how little tension there really is on a taught tarp, I'm not really worried about holding power.

    Fraying will be an issue the way I currently have it, but if I change this to a dogbone UCR with a (much smaller than current) CL on either end, there won't be any fraying nor would it need any whipping (not a fan of whipping). The current version has the loop on the end actually buried the wrong way, creating a pinched point where the bury begins near the CRL.

    Basicly, I'll be doing a very small version of this topic, but not for suspension of the hammock: https://www.hammockforums.net/forum/...=1#post1531861

    As for tarp connection I'll stick with the microbiners for now, as I bought them a few weeks back and haven't even used them in the wild yet... I have a Mamajamba which has small keyrings for connection, to which I normally keep these microbiners attached constantly. At <3g each, there's not really any gain in replacing them weightwise either.
    Last edited by massis; 06-22-2016 at 08:54.

  9. #19
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    Sure there's not a lot of tension involved here, but aside from grip strength, the most important thing is that the ucr needs to not lose constriction.

    If I'm understanding you correctly, the loop at the end away from the tarp (where I have whipping) is just going to dangle there. It's purpose is solely to prevent fraying. Yes? This doesn't do anything to keep that end "loaded" though, so it won't take much to lose constriction especially with such a short bury. Recall that a whoopie sling has tension at both ends. This is why most folks leave a tail on a ucr, for attaching a prusik or klemheist. That's the primary reason why I whip it. In my crystal ball, under very windy conditions I foresee losing constriction because the tension won't remain constant.

    As indicated earlier, another reason I like the whipping is to possibly allow for a shorter device. Why use a 3" bury if 2" will do? It's a non issue as long as you have lots of distance between trees. I have two sets of test trees in my yard. The first pair are 19' apart and 2'-3' in diameter. I have to get a ladder out to use 'em (for the hammocks). The other pair (and my preference) are much smaller in diameter and not much over 12' apart. Combine an 11' tarp plus tie-out d-rings and room for crl connection at trees, it's not too hard to see why I'm a little particular to keep the crl/tarp connections as short as possible.

  10. #20
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    Here's my latest iteration. Uses .9mm cord for the whipping. Instead of an extra loop at the "loose" end, I simply tied an overhand and pushed it as close as possible to the bury opening. No chance of fraying and the overhand will also serve to keep the whipping from walking off. The bury started out at 2.5" and finished at about 2". This thing grips so well I'm wondering if I can get away with only 1". After all, ya never know how far ya can go until you've gone too far. I made a tiny locked Brummel at the other end but I'm thinking I could simply skip that and tie directly to the d-ring, thus keeping it as short as possible. Otherwise I'll try to find a split ring that'll just fit around the 1" beastie-dee.

    So far this thing works fantastic - at my desk. Can't wait to try it out on the tarp - not at my desk. It may need a few refinements yet but I think you had a great idea here massis, what are you going to name it?

    crl--ucr-tarp-adjuster2.jpg

    Edit: BTW, the CRL bury starts exactly where the loop bury ends. The loop bury could be shorter I guess, it's not like anyone's going to be hanging from it.

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