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[VictoriaGuy]

Im envious. All those around here are missing all the accessories.

It's not hard to understand - when the cams bring $10+ each on eBay, etc., the temptation is great. The other thing that happens is that machines get separated from 'Granny's sewing basket and sewing desk' where all the bits were stored.
Good news is that for most gear making you really only need straight stitch and a normal presser foot. The Elna ZZ cam is still available.

You just have to be patient, I think. I'm in the habit of checking the local ads in the morning. For months there's nothing very 'interesting', then within a week I find two 'gotta have it' machines at the right prices.
If you are looking for a machine that was 'top-of-the-line' back in the day, it also helps to be in an area that was once fairly prosperous - some of those machines cost quite a bit .... a $250 sewing machine when a new Ford/Chev was $2000 was a big deal. I remember paying $700+ for a Pfaff 1222E in '76 and in the same year I think I paid $4000 for a new Plymouth....so it's almost like those $10k+ machines being sold today.

Any local gear makers that need a good machine should contact me!

[MagicPaddler]

gmcttr
Thanks you got me on the correct track. I found this video the best.

The machine is working now but still missing stitches especially on wide zigzag.

[VictoriaGuy]

It goes similar to this...

http://www.singersewinginfo.co.uk/457timing/



Google "Timing a (your brand/model here)".

It's fairly easy once you understand the concept or have directions for your specific machine.

That's an excellent explanation in the sewinginfo.co.uk link. It covers checking that the needlebar height is correct as well as the timing of the hook.
The basic idea is that the hook should be lined up with the needle after the needle has 'bottomed out' and risen back up a short (2mm is typical) distance. The thread loop is only formed under the fabric once the needle starts to rise back up.
Wide zig-zag is the most demanding test of timing, since one loop is formed earlier than with straight stitching, then the next is formed later than when straight stitching (needle in the middle position). It can take a bit of re-adjustment to get it stitching properly at both extremes.

Make sure you have the correct needle (type/class) in the machine - I've seen thrift shop machines with a couple of different length needles in the accessory box!

[Spaceman]

I'm still learning about my new-to-me machine. Posted this earlier.


I couldn't find anything specific on the Archer brand, except that it was made in a Singer factory in Poland. It's also the same as a White flat-bed Model 807 and I was able to track down a manual for one of those.

Along with the machine, I inherited a few different presser feet. I was hoping someone with more experience could tell me the type of feet I have and what their application would be. I know the one on the machine is for straight stitches, but I'm not sure about the others. I'm not sure the others even fit the Archer. They just came with the rest of Grandma's sewing stuff and she owned a number of machines over the years.






Thanks for your help.

[momtaxi]

Don't know, narrow rolled hem, don't know (maybe free motion?? or cording??), don't know but is that green stuff rubbery? Maybe a button foot, zipper foot.

[MagicPaddler]

VictoraGuy
My first attempt was to set the hook at needle at needle bottom. I could see it was not picking up the thread. I retimed more closely following the gmcttr referenced information. The dog timing has the material moving just after the needle comes out of the material. I think if it were set so the material stops moving just before the needle enters the material it would work better.
Good suggestions thanks

[Spaceman]

Don't know, narrow rolled hem, don't know (maybe free motion?? or cording??), don't know but is that green stuff rubbery? Maybe a button foot, zipper foot.

The green stuff is a hard plastic with a very fine texture on the bottom. There is a small notch in the center of the plastic.

[VictoriaGuy]

I'm still learning about my new-to-me machine.

That looks like a nice 'Singer clone' machine - I wouldn't worry about the specific 'Brand name' printed on it.

The presser foot in the machine is a straight-stitch foot, as you correctly stated. The leftmost foot in your picture of the feet looks to be a spare straight-stitch foot.

For me, the foot that is 'missing' is the straight/zig-zag foot that I keep in my machine most of the time.Household-Sewing-Machine-Parts-Presser-Foot-Low-Shank.jpg
I like to be able to use the ZZ without changing the presser foot - forgetting will result in a broken needle, and I don't wear safety glasses to sew! (Actually the broken needle tip is usually left hanging on the thread - don't ask how I know...)

The only other foot I'd use from that collection is the adjustable zipper foot (right-end of the row).

It looks like your machine should take standard low-shank (you can measure to see if it's lo- or hi-shank) presser feet; there are many available on eBay. For standard feet I've found the cheap ones work OK. Sometimes the roller and 'Teflon' feet can be handy if you are sewing anything 'sticky'. You can also get adapters which allow you to use snap-on feet.
eBay is also a good spot for cheap bobbins and bobbin boxes.

[VictoriaGuy]

The green stuff is a hard plastic with a very fine texture on the bottom. There is a small notch in the center of the plastic.

I agree with momtaxi; I think it's a foot for sewing on buttons. The foot holds the button in place and the zig-zag stitches the button through the holes. AFAIK, you need to drop the feed-dogs or cover them with a plate ('embroidery mode') to use a button foot. I've never used one, though, so I don't know.

I do know that for pant buttons, hand-stitching (with the matchstick/toothpick between the fabric and button) with good buttonhole twist thread does a better job than machine stitching. My pants seem to shrink more these days...

[VictoriaGuy]

The dog timing has the material moving just after the needle comes out of the material. I think if it were set so the material stops moving just before the needle enters the material it would work better.

Your two statements aren't necessarily contradictory - the feed dogs should be below the plate ('out of action') while the needle is in the material.
From one of several 'service manuals' I have here in the computer:

If the feed mechanism is properly timed, the feed dog should be
on its downstroke and level with the throat plate when the point of the needle
reaches the material.

BTW (off-topic) be sure to never run the machine with the presser foot 'down' so it can touch the feed dogs (without fabric) or you will take the 'points' off the dogs and mess up the feeding.
For working on the timing (without sewing), I remove the presser foot anyway...