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[Mrprez]

That is the way the Janome is. There are other oil points, but you have to take it apart. I leave that up to the mechanic to handle.

[mclmm]

Mine's a Singer 99K. A$70 off ebay.



I have already made a vinyl soft top for my BJ40 Landcruiser 4WD with it as well as modified loads of gear from packs and clothing to tarps. When I get around to it I'll be making a multicam or an Auscam HH clone, now that I have suppliers for the camo material.

[MacEntyre]

I have to say I love my Pfaff

I thought you might chime in if I mentioned Pfaff!

One thing that IS weird on both of the machines is that you do not oil them.

My friend's Consew 206 has a pan of oil underneath, so it oils itself.

[bull]

The Consew I have also has an oil pan with a screen pickup like in an automobile. Looks HEAVY DUTY ! I'll go in the garage and get the model #. Sure would like a manual for this machinery.
Mike

Mine is a Model # 220.

Anyone have an Instruction Manual I could copy ?

Thanks,
Mike

[gargoyle]

Deleted info.. faulty link, sorry.

[MacEntyre]

Thanks, Gargoyle! ...but I couldn't get that site to work. I went to the source:

Consew instruction manuals and parts lists.

[G.L.P.]

Ahhh here she is...i just got done test running her...and she works great

[nacra533]

This is just about the exact same machine that I have. The only difference is that the label on the front says Tacsew, instead of Consew.... bet they're made in the same factory.

Consew back in the day was made by Seiko, same as Singer Japan. These were gray ones and "da bomb". The newer ones are white and not as "respected" as the older ones. The consew and tacsew are probably both Chinese or Tiwanese now.

If your's still needs to hit the shop, try tuning it yourself. Many of the operators manuals included timing settings. It's really very simple if you're not afraid to loosen a few screws. Worst case is you make the timing worse and you carry to someone then, but if you have the confidence and skill to make your own gear, you can time a sewing machine. Usually, it's just one adjustment to get it right again, although there a lot of steps to get it back to "factory" specs.

The older vintage Consew 206, Singer 111, Singer 211, Pfaff 145 and the other truely industrial heavy duty machines are not very good for hammocks and gear. They are for heavy weight materials. They need a lot of tension and (I) can't run small thread through them. V69 is about the smallest. Normal Guttermans and Mettlers are around V46-V50 thread size or smaller.

The Consew 220 was a great, fast industrial light-med duty machine. I saw someone mentioned they had one. Keep it.

Industrial machines are usually very fast (5000 spm) and not necessarily heavy duty by any means. They also do one thing only and do it well. Reverse and zig-zag are rare.You can usually tell heavy duty from fast by the tension disk setup. Look at pictures of a Singer 111w155 or an old Consew 206RB1. These types of tension disks mean heavy weight material. Most other industrials are just fast.

I have:
-Singer 211 for Canvas and Heavy stuff. Compound, needle feed, will stitch through a volkswagon engine block, (without the oilpan)
-Singer 20u for hammocks and lighter stuff. Zig Zag and reverse,commercial duty machine. It makes me grin sometimes when I knock out a 10' stitch in a 30 seconds.
-Sailrite LSZ-1 - Zig Zag Walking foot for Sail making. Real good, but the feed dog teeth are a little too agressive for nylon.

[sclittlefield]

I have:
-Singer 20u for hammocks and lighter stuff. Zig Zag and reverse,commercial duty machine. It makes me grin sometimes when I knock out a 10' stitch in a 30 seconds.

The machine I've got is a Tacsew T20U. The guy I bought it from gave me a Singer 20U manual. They seem awfully close in design. It does reverse and zigzag.

The motor under the table it goes with says Consew on it.

I think I just royally messed up the bobbin casing - it was making a rats nest underneath (I think initially due to threading the machine wrong), so eventually I tried adjusting bobbin tension. I still can't get it to a place where it'll do silnylon properly yet.

Oh... and boy nacra - you're a wealth of knowledge! Any advice for my mix'n'match machine?

[warbonnetguy]

Industrial machines are usually very fast (5000 spm) and not necessarily heavy duty by any means. They also do one thing only and do it well. Reverse and zig-zag are rare.You can usually tell heavy duty from fast by the tension disk setup. Look at pictures of a Singer 111w155 or an old Consew 206RB1. These types of tension disks mean heavy weight material. Most other industrials are just fast.

even the industrial machines meant for lighter weight fabric (drop foot) have that big honking motor under the table. they'll all sew through alot more fabric than any home machine ever will. they may not be meant for heavier fabrics because they don't have the walking foot, but they'll still sew through alot of layers. sure maybe not as heavy duty as something setup for sewing leather, but you can still sew multiple layers of cordura, and i'd consider 1000d heavy weight fabric. many straight stitch industrial machines have reverse, at least many of the ones i've seen.

hows the sailrite compare to your singer 20? i always thought they(sailrite) looked like a glorified home machine with their ity-bitty looking motor and portable setup.

i've got a juki needlefeed dln 5410n. i love it. i tried some walking foot machines that had been setup for lighter stuff that worked pretty well, but ended up with the needlefeed. it's quite nice. i've yet to try a compound feed though, but suppose that's probably overkill for lightweight stuff, although i have had good success sewing lightweight stuff on a walking foot by turning the top and bottom tension way down.