I'll write something up and get some feed back from others such as yourself and see if I can make it clear enough to understand and follow.Originally Posted by hammock engineer
I'll write something up and get some feed back from others such as yourself and see if I can make it clear enough to understand and follow.
I don't understand how you're making the adapters for the trekking poles, especially the grips.
I'll help with what I can. I will be around until July 9th or 10th. Hopefully I'll be hiking after that.
Is that too much to ask? Girls with frikkin' lasers on their heads?
The hanger formly known as "hammock engineer".
I'm not sure how TeeDee is doing it, but here is what I was thinking. I haven't tried it, but I think it would work.
I would use spectra and webbing to make a loop with a slip knot. Basically so you can adjust the size of the loop. This would fit over the bisket (I think that is the correct term) of the bottom of the trekking pole. This would go until the top section of the trekking pole. The knot would be tightened to hold it there.
On the other end I would make a pocket that would hold the handle of the trekking pole.
The pocket and the slip knot would be on the end of a length of spectra. It might be have 2 lines coming off to keep the forces even. The ends of the spectra would attach to the hammock lines where you want the spreader bar to be.
I was thinking about trying this since it could be used without collaping the trekking poles each night. An issue with this thought would be the tarp. It could hit the tarp.
I think reguardless of the way I use my trekking poles, I am going to make somthing that sets over the sharp edge of the pole.
Is that too much to ask? Girls with frikkin' lasers on their heads?
The hanger formly known as "hammock engineer".
Yeah, I was thinking something along those lines as well.
I've taken some pictures, but the CVS developing machine was down and so I couldn't get the film developed today. Will have them developed tomorrow and post.
Until then I'll try to describe what I'm doing.
I'm using stainless steel rings sewn to the end of the webbing as shown here:
The picture shows only the 3/4" ID rings. I have added 1" ID rings with a webbing strap with the suspension tied to the 1" ID rings. I'm using stainless steel to avoid any corrosion problems and because they are rated for their strength. I did use 1" ID nickel plated steel rings, but was uncomfortable since the weld was very minimal and I had no idea if they could possibly bend at some time in the future when such an event would make replacing them impossible.
On the ground end of the treking pole, mine have those carbide tips. The pole diameter is a tiny fraction less than 5/8". As such, a CPVC 1/2" coupling fits snugly on the pole end. The problem is that the couplings slide right through the 1" rings. However, the couplings fit into CPVC 3/4" to 1/2" adapters. The shoulder on the adapter from 1/2" to 3/4" doesn't fit through the 1" rings. So the sequence is: 1/2" coupling over carbide tip and pole end, coupling into adapter, adapter socketed into 1" ring. That secures one end of the pole to the suspension.
For the grip end, my treking poles have tops that screw off with 1/4 x 20 screws on the top of the pole. The screws are there so that a person can use the pole as a camera monopod. I specifically purchased poles with that camera mount feature long before this use appeared. Okay, I took another one of those 1/2" CPVC couplings, and cemented a 1/4 x 20 nut in one end using epoxy putty. Just enough putty to secure the nut. Then simply screw the coupling on top the top of the treking pole camera mount and slip the coupling through the 1" ring for the other end of the spreader bar. The top of the pole is too large to go through the 1" ring. The coupling is long enough so that it doesn't fall back out when there is nobody in the hammock.
That then secures both ends of the treking pole as a spreader bar.
One last detail: I wrapped 3 or 4 layers of that aluminum duct tape aound the 1/2" coupling used with the 3/4" to 1/2" coupling and then force fit the coupling into the adapter. That makes the two one unit.
I then drilled a small hole in the 1/2" end of the adapter, strung a length of guy line cord and tied to the webbing with the rings. Keeps it from getting lost. Did the same for the 1/2" coupling with the 1/4 x 20 nut also. Keeps all of the "treking pole adapters" accounted for.
My original idea for the steel rings was for use with the treking pole, but also I could pick-up an appropriately sized branch that was long enough and the diameter large enough that it would not slip through the ring. Cut the branch to the proper length, sharpen the ends to a blunt point and insert the points through the rings - viola - spreader bars. I have a picture of a branch utilized as a spreader bar here:
Again, that was using the 3/4" ID stainless steel rings before I learned that I would need 1" ID rings. I'm glad I used the 3/4" rings though because they now become the basis for attachment points for draft stoppers, under quilts, etc.
I learned I needed 1" ID rings when the branch pictured snapped when I laid down. Need thicker and slightly green or newly fallen branches. The branch I used on the other end held great.
Last edited by TeeDee; 06-24-2007 at 19:23.
Be very careful in how you do this with cord.
One thing I found out very quickly - if the pole is even slightly canted, a force develops that is perpendicular to the pole axis. This force is then in a direction to bend the pole. I broke a 5/8" hard wood dowel because of this. The dowel didn't fit snugly in a CPVC adapter I was using, canted very slightly, the dowel flexed and SNAPPED. When I tested the dowels bare handed I could barely flex them. I thought it would hold handily. Live and learn.
Using cord it is going to be VERY difficult to keep the pole from canting. A little too much (it doesn't take much) and you could easily lose the pole.
I have seen pictures of people using treking poles for spreader bars for a regular hammock, i.e., to keep the flapping sides open. Cord was used for that application. Keep in mind that the forces in that application are a very small fraction of the forces on the spreader bars for this hammock.
Thinks. I'll have to keep that in mind.
Is that too much to ask? Girls with frikkin' lasers on their heads?
The hanger formly known as "hammock engineer".
Why is it so hard to keep the pole from canting with rope?
hey teedee, just a thought, but i'll bet you could go alot lighter than your 1/2" tubular polyester. that stuff is way strong.when i messed around with the one i made, i was really psyched about making it, but didn't have any webbing on hand. well i couldn't wait, so i used 5/8" polyester grossgrain ribbon. i had my 5" thick bouldering pad under me and was really careful, but it held. the 5/8 polyester is probably even weaker than the 1/2" nylon grossgrain. i'll bet 1/2" flat weave nylon or 1/2" flat poly would be plenty strong. don't know what the jacks were using, but it wasn't tubular. you could probably switch to something lighter and still have plenty of margin of error, i mean grossgrain is some pretty weak stuff...Brandon
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