Hot Tent Tarp material

[stryder]

Thinking about doing a DIY cabin tent tarp similar to the great one done by Smokehouse. Hot tenting seems to offer some interesting possibilities. His is very slick, but a simpler version seems like a collection of rectangles sewn together.

Any tips on which of Dutch's great material choices would be good for such a project? It is a large shelter so not exactly ultralight. No special color or pattern requirements. Waterproof (will mitigate condensation with venting or a stove).

Would run a tall chimney to avoid embers but would expect pin hole burns similar to a normal tent down wind from an overly rambunctious campfire. Other vendors (Seek Outside, Kifaru, ) seem to sell silnylon hot tents with no reports of them going up like exploding meth labs.

[Dogger]

Made mine out of 1.6 silpoly. I have a kin-co stove 7ft pipe maybe. Threw the spark arrester away, they plug up. Had my tent out like 10 long weekends last winter no holes. A camp fire and a wood stove are two different things.
Dogger

[Dutch]

If you want a wide fabric, look at the xenon wide on www.makeyourgear.com (my DIY site). When I think of hot tent I think high walls. Xenon wide was developed by me and is the lightest wide polyester available.

[BrianWillan]

Thinking about doing a DIY cabin tent tarp similar to the great one done by Smokehouse. Hot tenting seems to offer some interesting possibilities. His is very slick, but a simpler version seems like a collection of rectangles sewn together.

Any tips on which of Dutch's great material choices would be good for such a project? It is a large shelter so not exactly ultralight. No special color or pattern requirements. Waterproof (will mitigate condensation with venting or a stove).

Would run a tall chimney to avoid embers but would expect pin hole burns similar to a normal tent down wind from an overly rambunctious campfire. Other vendors (Seek Outside, Kifaru, ) seem to sell silnylon hot tents with no reports of them going up like exploding meth labs.

There are a number of hammock hot tent designs on this site. Just do a search and you'll find lots. I have a rather large and tall canvas wedge tent with doors on both ends. If I was to design another one I would make one the same foot print as my existing but add 30" or so vertical side walls and flatten out the angle of the roof. This will give a little more shoulder room when standing in the tent. One thing I would keep is the stove jack location being in an end wall (or door in my case). Putting the stove jack in the roof has the down side of potential leaks if it rains or you have wet snow to contend with.

Good luck with your project.

Brian

[stryder]

"Xenon wide"
First I was thinking "high walls" with this, but 70+ inches high on a traditional cabin tent may be a bit much if I choose to leave my circus elephants home.

Than I was thinking half that is about 36", perfect for walls and reduce waste. I could order one piece in length I want and slice it down the middle.

Than I was like, holy cow, 70+ inches x two is 140 inches - close to 12 feet. I wanted the ridge-line to be more than 10'. Was thinking of seaming two pieces along ridge. More seams where roof panels meet side wall panels. With Xenon wide though I can seam two pieces together perpendicular to ridge-line. Run it from ground on one side up and over ridge-line to ground on other. Replace three seams with one! Much easier for first DIY.

Dutch, thanks for the variety of supplies and gear you offer.

[TZBrown]

Check this out

https://hammockforums.net/forum/show...tent-and-stove

If the wider material had been available at the time I would have used it and got a longer ridgeline, but this is adequate. I added an over cover of sil nylon later to let the snow slide easier.

The stove was also modified for a hinged door after use for a bit

[stryder]

Check this out

https://hammockforums.net/forum/show...tent-and-stove

If the wider material had been available at the time I would have used it and got a longer ridgeline, but this is adequate. I added an over cover of sil nylon later to let the snow slide easier.

The stove was also modified for a hinged door after use for a bit

Hey, I saw that... It actually is what leads me to believe this is a good 1st time project (few seams, basting tape, D Rings only for tension, etc).

So Sill nylon is slippier than sil poly? I thought of a sacrificial fly on top for cinders and such. From the thread it sounds like this is in response to accumulation. I wonder if I went with shorter walls and more pitch...

The slab side, is that just for ease of construction? Does it catch the wind more than other side?

Does the side stove jack means less wind issues with chimney?

Many thanks to you, smokehouse and dogger

PS I love SeekOutside's tipi hot tents but do not think they would work with a stove. They just emailed a newsletter with a new tent, called "Courthouse" that is a traditional cabin tent style. But theirs is heavier than yours and although their stuff is good value, it is costly.

[stryder]

do not think they would work with a stove.

This should read "do not think they would work with a hammock."

[stryder]

If the top panels were siliconized waterproof material like Xenon; and I planned to extend the top panels out a bit past the walls...

I wonder if I could use breathable material to reduce condensation (often in hot tenting it seems stoves are allowed to burn down overnight). I mean our hammock tarps now are wall-less shelters and do fine with rain. Using breathable material might be interesting. I do not think heat loss would be a concern with the majority of hot tents out there made of canvas.

Would welcome your wisdom...

[TZBrown]

I used sil nylon because it is what I had. During the first heavy snow it piled up on the long sloping side and pulled a bit, with the overfly I can pitch it out farther and the snow does not land and pile on the tent side.

Yours should work very well, but an over cover will improve the snow sliding off to outside the tent walls