Anyone have a video of a taper being performed on some cord/rope?
And at what point of any splicing process do you perform the taper?
One article I was reading suggested that you don't cut the loose strands until they're about to be pulled into the bury.
It's the first thing I do...
- MacEntyre
"We must, indeed, all hang together or, most assuredly, we shall all hang separately." - Ben Franklin
www.MollyMacGear.com
Sometimes I taper prior, sometimes after... It works either way and both have their pluses and minuses.
I dont have a video.... I could do a pictoral, but the original whoopie sling thread has an excellent pictoral and so does the vid link done by Nick...
http://www.howcast.com/videos/18098-...ing-With-Yalex
Its different rope, but the premise is exactly the same.
excellent link! thanks
Maybe I'm doing it wrong but I don't taper. Using the wire method that Grizz has shown us, I just place the end of the (Amsteel in my case) cord into the loop of the wire and pull it through. Haven't had any difficulty and just kind of massage it as I pull. Other cords/ropes may require a taper but I've done some braided nylon and polyester ropes the same way. I've only done Eye and butt splices though.
stumo
The purpose of the taper is not to make it easier to feed the line through, it's to prevent the rope from failing at that point. If you don't taper, the weakest point in the eye is where the standing line goes from double diameter down to single, and it will break there. It has something to do with uneven forces on individual strands or somesuch. I'm sure someone else can explain it better, but the point is, it's for strength that you taper, not ease of making.
Acer
It's better to have it and not need it than need it and not have it.
Formerly known as Acercanto, my trail name is MacGuyver to some, and Pucker Factor to others.
It's not procrastinating, its proactively delaying the implementation of the energy-intensive phase of the project until the enthusiasm factor is at its maximum effectiveness. - Randy Glasbergen
Acer's right... it is intuitive that stresses cannot be distributed evenly along a rope through a knot. Same is true for a diameter change of 2X. You get a high stress point, and that is where failure occurs.Originally Posted by acercanto
- MacEntyre
"We must, indeed, all hang together or, most assuredly, we shall all hang separately." - Ben Franklin
www.MollyMacGear.com
Next question: What type of rope should I use for a tarp ridgeline?
I've seen the info about Amsteel not holding knots at stresses as little as 10% of its strength rating (without a backer knot).
So, what is a different choice of rope that would be better for splicing and knotting?
Oh, and do you guys lock-stitch all of your non-adjustable splices?
Speer No Tangle does a good job.
Any inexpensive coreless braided para cord will do... I have some flat green stuff that I like, but I am running out, and don't know where to get more.
That, or an overhand loop to make a hold-open eye, or a locked Brummel, or a piece of electrical tape...
- MacEntyre
"We must, indeed, all hang together or, most assuredly, we shall all hang separately." - Ben Franklin
www.MollyMacGear.com
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