“Republics are created by the virtue, public spirit, and intelligence of the citizens. They fall when the wise are banished from the public councils because they dare to be honest, and the profligate are rewarded because they flatter the people, in order to betray them.” ~Judge Joseph Story
- My site: http://www.tothewoods.net/
- Designer, Jeff's Gear Hammock / Pack Cover by JRB
IMPOSSIBLE JUST TAKES LONGER
Thanks for all the good info!!!
I'd use polyurethane coated flame retardant ripstop with a siled fiberglass pipe hole.
It's not burnproof but it'll keep you from lighting up from a AWOL spark or ember. There are some big downsides though.
There are additional fire-retardant fabric coatings you can use to additionally aide in the fire resistance I suppose that could add a weight penalty though. I don't think these would work well on silnylon as most of them rely on the fabric's ability to absorb liquid.
I don't know how Seattle coats their fabrics but from what I understand polyurethane coated is just that... coated. The "inside" is where the poly is and the "outside" is just bear nylon. So when it rains and snows or whatever the moisture sinks into the fabric but not through the poly. Making the fabric heavier with the weight of the moisture. If you store it wet the poly can denature and leave you with a gooey stuck together mess. Then there's UV sensitivity. Poly will break down pretty quickly in consistent uv light. And then there's the strength. Because of the coating all the pressure of a tear is focused onto it's ends, whereas silnylon is impregnated with silicone not just coated. Therefore the stretchy silicone helps to move some of the force to other fibers essentially making the fabric stronger. The only downside is that silnylon isn't breathable and as far as I know can't be given flame retardant properties.
Anyhow, I guess there are new ways to coat poly and you can impregnate the fabric now with the fire retardant and uv suppressor? After looking for different poly nylons they advertise properties that don't sound like a typical poly coating so I'm curious as to how this stuff performs. And how it works.
Personally, I plan to make a shelter much like the smoke house. I LOVE the design, kindof like a lean too mentality. And I don't see how anyone can gram weenie too much on it because, lets be honest, your hauling a cabin out into the forest... That comfort implies a cost. This isn't a setup you'd use to speed hike 20 miles or something.
I plan to make a smokehouse-like tarp as a basecamp setup for hunting. Set it up and it stays up for a few days.
Any of you fabric gurus wanna shed more light on the poly-sil pros and cons? I'm quite interested myself in all the differences.
Last edited by attrezzo; 01-18-2010 at 13:06.
So... does anyone know where to get just the rubber/silicone ring that's in the center of the stovejack?
I think I have a complete DIY solution, except for that piece.
titanium goat sell just the flame retardant roof jack as a separate component that can be added to any shelter. Its easy to sew in and will accomodate stove pipes up to 6" in diameter. I can attest first hand to its amazing ability to resist combustion. I have had my stove pipe up into 600+ deg F where it touches the fabric.
$40 plus shipping. A great product.
I was out in the JRB winter hut just last weekend, and though she is battered and reeking of many many nights of fire and a few mishaps, still going strong and will do so for many years.
Sparks on the roof, is still a problem for any stove pipe that does not use a close weave mesh spark arrestor. Its my biggest concern against an all silnylon shelter. I have been running no spark arrestor for over a year and weight the added risk against vastly improved stove efficiency.
I have had one spontaneous stove pipe fire where all the creosote lit up at once. Fire came out the seams of the titanium pipe and were lit a foot beyond the pipe termination. That could have been BAD in a silnylon shelter. I also put a hot stove pipe through the wall of the shelter when it came dislodged from the stove in high winds. Made a perfectly round hole in a fraction of a second. I now use a three point aircraft aluminum wire tie out system to support the chimney pipe outside the shelter. Highly recommend.
Last edited by turk; 01-18-2010 at 18:58.
The jack in my canvas tent is in the sidewall. The tent maker strongly recommended that, to avoid the spark problems. Works great.
It may not be rocket science, but it's still science.
I have a commercial version on my canvas tent, too. It performs admirably -- and like oldgringo's, it's in the sidewall.
I think I've found a way to make an ultralight version (as ultralight as you can get, and still WORK!).
Has anyone ever replaced just the center ring? I couldn't find a replacement ring (instead of the whole panel) on any sites, but it HAS to be available to industry somewhere! darned if I can find it, though.
I'd like to test my idea, and post the results for people to use as they will... I really like the idea of a tiny stove in a hammock-tent, "a la" smokehouse!!
Last edited by Tedinski; 01-18-2010 at 19:52. Reason: spleling.
The stovejack materal I bought is here: http://www.beckelcanvas.com/products...products_id=27
$30.00 for a 3'x5' section a few years ago.
With any shelter using a stove one needs to use caution. I've used many shelter with stoves, but in a large shelter with a large stove like a 4-dog-stove you only have to feed it one time durning the night. With a small stove, it is what it is,,, small and fire is not going to last that long, but they don't use much wood and while your awake its nice for your whole body to be warm.
I've got a video I'm going to post with the same trip I posted and it shows the stove in action. I never had any smoke issues in the shelter.
How much do you think that panel weighs, overall?
If you buy a stove from Doug at Titanium Goat they give you a piece of Fiberglass cloth to put under the stove, but you can use it for the stovejack instead.
My total weight is 1lb 14oz for shelter and fiberglass cloth.