1. Originally Posted by acercanto
Is there any way to do a true locked brummel continuous loop? I've been pondering it in my head for a few days now, and I can't think of anything.

Very curious,
Acer
Define "true locked brummel".

If you mean such that the 2 strands are interwoven (marlin splices I believe they are called), then the manner that I have altered Opie's steps fits.

If you mean that the 2 strands have to also lie along the standing part as in the locked Brummel for a fixed eye, then the answer is no for the simple fact that there is no longer a standing part.

2. Okay my previous post is wrong.

Opie's procedure as I altered it is a "true locked Brummel".

I think the confusion comes about because people tend to think of the fixed eye made with a locked Brummel splice.

There are 2 splices in the fixed eye:

1. Locked Brummel splice
2. bury splice

Those are 2 different splices and not one splice.

The continuous loop as I make them (and as altered above in step 5 of Opie's procedure) involves making a fixed eye with a "true locked Brummel" and then 2 buries instead of the single bury of the usual fixed eye. The buries involve burying the "standing part" and "free end" (really 2 free ends) from the fixed eye into the rope of the eye yielding a continuous loop with a "true locked Brummel".

3. Originally Posted by TeeDee
Define "true locked brummel".
If you mean that the 2 strands have to also lie along the standing part as in the locked Brummel for a fixed eye, then the answer is no for the simple fact that there is no longer a standing part.
I think that's what I mean. It's just Opie's standard way, except the two brummel "pass-throughs" are reversed so that they lock under tension, as in a LB eye splice.

Clear as mud?
Acer

4. Ok, so I made my first continuos loop. I used 7/64 yellow Amsteel. I made it with 30" with 5" spliced in on each side. I will use this for Prussic knots. I ended up with a loop that is 9" in length. I hope I did this right seems very strong and nothing is slipping out of place. I'll make a few more then tackle a whoopi sling next.

5. Would the formula be the same if I was using a larger rope? I need to make some tie down loops for the motorcycle and was thinking about using 1/2" ski rope. I need to make some 12" loops.

6. Prez.... For anything thats going to bear any type of considerable weight or force, I use 6" buries.

That being said, I dont use the Zing It for anything thats going to bear a considerable amount of weight.

7. Originally Posted by russmay
Ok, so I made my first continuos loop. I used 7/64 yellow Amsteel. I made it with 30" with 5" spliced in on each side. I will use this for Prussic knots. I ended up with a loop that is 9" in length. I hope I did this right seems very strong and nothing is slipping out of place. I'll make a few more then tackle a whoopi sling next.
Sounds like you got it.

8. Originally Posted by Mrprez
Would the formula be the same if I was using a larger rope? I need to make some tie down loops for the motorcycle and was thinking about using 1/2" ski rope. I need to make some 12" loops.
Mrprez - depends on the rope material.

For buries, Samson recommends 2 fid lengths for class I rope (olefin, polyester or nylon) for the bury length, bury into 2 fid lengths

They recommend 3 fid lengths for Class II rope (high modulus fibers - dyneema, spectra, technora, etc) for the bury length, bury into 3.5 fid lengths.

1 fid is 7x the rope diameter.

9. I went with a 3/8" rope and 6" buries. The sizing worked out just fine and the loops are holding just fine. I'll be keeping a close eye on things. I also added backup tie outs to the front and the back just in case. Don't want a 900 lb motorcycle coming loose at 70 mph!

10. Originally Posted by TeeDee
Mrprez - depends on the rope material.

For buries, Samson recommends 2 fid lengths for class I rope (olefin, polyester or nylon) for the bury length, bury into 2 fid lengths

They recommend 3 fid lengths for Class II rope (high modulus fibers - dyneema, spectra, technora, etc) for the bury length, bury into 3.5 fid lengths.

1 fid is 7x the rope diameter.
Actually 1 fid length = 21 x rope diameter or 7 x rope circumference.