Benefits of ridgeline over tarp?

**oldgringo** · 01-22-2010, 12:10

Originally Posted by tlbj6142

But it is not sufficient with direct connections? If the tarp is loose, it is loose. How does the attachment mechanism affect it?

Not loose, snug.

The ridgeline is pulled tight, and bears most of the load, and the prusiks are used to position the tarp on that tight ridgeline. Without the ridgeline, the tarp bears 100% of the load.

Maybe I'm not explaining this well...somebody jump in.

**opie** · 01-22-2010, 12:29

Originally Posted by oldgringo

Not loose, snug.

The ridgeline is pulled tight, and bears most of the load, and the prusiks are used to position the tarp on that tight ridgeline. Without the ridgeline, the tarp bears 100% of the load.

Maybe I'm not explaining this well...somebody jump in.

Ill add...

And your tie outs produce the tension on the tarp to keep it taught. No need to crank the tarp tight, just snug it up and the tie outs do the rest.

**tlbj6142** · 01-22-2010, 13:07

Originally Posted by opie

And your tie outs produce the tension on the tarp to keep it taught. No need to crank the tarp tight, just snug it up and the tie outs do the rest.

If I only need 25# (made up number) to keep my tarp "snug" does it mater what it is attached to? I don't think so. I end up with the same amount of force on my tie-outs.

I'm not trying to dissuade anyone from using a full tarp ridgeline (there are plenty of benefits), I just don't see how it "reduces wear on the tarp's tie-outs".

**Rug** · 01-22-2010, 13:14

If you place your tarp OVER your ridge line don't you need to worry about the tarp rubbing on the line causing abrasion wear-marks on the tarp?

As far as extra strain on the tarp tie-outs; If you don't use a RL, you have to pull on the tie-outs TIGHT (bango twang). If you do use a RL they only need to be taut.

Just my $0.02

**GrizzlyAdams** · 01-22-2010, 13:41

Originally Posted by Rug

If you place your tarp OVER your ridge line don't you need to worry about the tarp rubbing on the line causing abrasion wear-marks on the tarp?

As far as extra strain on the tarp tie-outs; If you don't use a RL, you have to pull on the tie-outs TIGHT (bango twang). If you do use a RL they only need to be taut.

Just my $0.02

what me worry?

I worry about the fact that I don't get out in the field to get to worry about abrasion on anything I own

But seriously, no, sil is tough stuff and there is very little movement in the tree-to-tree dimension. More possible in the side-to-side, but that would be spread out I think. Where I worry about abrasion is when there is a lot of movement in a small area.

Alfred B.

**tlbj6142** · 01-22-2010, 13:48

Originally Posted by Rug

As far as extra strain on the tarp tie-outs; If you don't use a RL, you have to pull on the tie-outs TIGHT (bango twang). If you do use a RL they only need to be taut.

Is this because when you use a RL you are "hanging" the tarp, whereas if you don't you have to "suspend" the tarp?

**Rug** · 01-22-2010, 14:05

Originally Posted by tlbj6142

Is this because when you use a RL you are "hanging" the tarp, whereas if you don't you have to "suspend" the tarp?

Umm, yeah. That sounds good. On the other hand I just might be doing things wrong. In years gone by I would reef on my tarp lines to try and keep them from flapping in the wind, and it was obvious that tarp material was taking a LOT of strain. By using a RL , all of the strain is on the trees, and the tarp looks 'happier'.

I still don't know what I like better over vs under. Under looks natural, but over looks better.

If I were a DIY'er I would make a tarp with a built-in double-seam faux ridge-line. Along this thick and burley channel I would place evenly spaced gross-grain & D-rings. When setting up Ridge-Line I would run it through the D-rings (kind of like a shower-curtain effect.)

Make RL tight.
Pull Prussics on edge of tarp taut.
Pull guy-lines taut.

In my minds eye this will give a VERY stable tarp, and the load is evenly spread along the entire width of the ridge-line. By golly, now I do want to DIY.

**Rug** · 01-22-2010, 15:38

Originally Posted by GrizzlyAdams

what me worry?

I worry about the fact that I don't get out in the field to get to worry about abrasion on anything I own

But seriously, no, sil is tough stuff and there is very little movement in the tree-to-tree dimension. More possible in the side-to-side, but that would be spread out I think. Where I worry about abrasion is when there is a lot of movement in a small area.

Alfred B.

I don't doubt that sil is tough stuff. But I have seen cheapo blue tarps wear-through when I tried using an under ridge-line before.

**gstepclassical** · 01-22-2010, 17:49

OK OK OK. So I tried it and it is really is a great way to get your tarp centered or positioned to give you the best coverage with respect to wind direction. I used a biner on one end of the ridgeline and a figure 9 on the other. I can crank the ridgeline pretty tight with this arrangement. I had a couple of mini S biners that I used to connect the prusiks to the tarp and viola, there it was. I don't think initial setup is any faster but making adjustments is WAY easier. I don't think there is any difference as far as strain on the tarp is concerned with the ridgeline over the tarp. I'm thinking tension is tension if you need to keep the tarp from sagging. Thanks to all for the info.

**opie** · 01-22-2010, 18:14

Originally Posted by tlbj6142

If I only need 25# (made up number) to keep my tarp "snug" does it mater what it is attached to? I don't think so. I end up with the same amount of force on my tie-outs.

I'm not trying to dissuade anyone from using a full tarp ridgeline (there are plenty of benefits), I just don't see how it "reduces wear on the tarp's tie-outs".

I know what you are saying... But give this a think..

If I didnt pull the tarps ridge tight, and relied solely on the tie outs, I think a satisfactory pitch could be achieved without any starting tension on the tarps RL itself.