As far as colors I'd want to buy from:
Blue - Gray - Orange
As far as colors I'd want to buy from:
Blue - Gray - Orange
Thanks for the answers and suggestions, hutzelbein.Originally Posted by hutzelbein
Your suggestion of the Wooki is good, and I like it, and I saw others also +1 your exact thoughts. An UQ would be my preference. I am wanting to get something versatile. I want to go hammocking with my wife and sometimes go two hammocks side by side with a spreader bar in a Dutch Birdnest or hambunking in a 360 bugnet like a SMr Stratos Shield. In that situation I wouldn't take the XLC bugnet or topcover as they'd be redundant. From your answer, this means I wouldn't have a footbox in that setup.
On some trips I won't be able to hang every night, so I plan to take a groundsheet and a pad instead of a UQ. That way I don't get cold butt when I hang, and I can use the pad on the ground when I can't hang. This wouldn't be every trip, so I'm thinking of the feasibility of optimising for hang-only trips with single layer + UQ, and being able to go SL + pad + UQP on these hang/ground trips. E.g. I'm trying to use the UQP like a fake double-layer, but it's something I can leave at home, so it's modular. Using a UQP to hold a pad, I believe it would work much better with hooks on the side of the hammock that I can use to hold the UQP snug to the hammock. I had a thread asking about this feasibility of making a pad sleave with 2QZQ UQP, https://www.hammockforums.net/forum/...utch-Chameleon. My take away was it's do-able. I'm a noob, and I won't really know until I try it. Maybe I am asking too much. If I had unlimited money (and storage) I'd buy every combo, 2xSL + 2xDL hammocks, + UQs + UQPs etc.
I had gotten the UQP as a pad pocket idea from http://tothewoods.net/HammockCampingWarm.html,
Much like the two-layer hammock, you can create a "Pad Pocket" underneath the hammock so you can insert insulation. With this method the pad stays put so you don't have to wrestle with it in the hammock, but you're also limited on adjustments, like if you wanted to change which diagonal you sleep on. Without inserting darts into the pocket, you'll have to use non-compressible insulation like a CCF pad. CD Pritchard has illustrated directions for creating this version.
Last edited by bigbenny; 10-15-2017 at 18:50. Reason: Fixed typo
That's true, but you wouldn't *need* the footbox in this scenario. The "footbox" is just the name for the way the bug net (or top cover) is cut in the foot area. It gives you a bit more space in contrast to the way most other bug nets are cut. With the footbox you can go much closer to the edge without feeling pressure from the netting. If the net is not there, there's nothing to keep you from putting your feet in the same position.
However, I admit that I like the way the footbox pulls the hammock body together, to help create the "channel" your legs make by their weight. I guess the heavier you are, the less you would notice. The footbox also helps with keeping the top quilt in the hammock. But otherwise the hammock should feel identical.
If you want to absolutely keep the footbox, you could leave the net zipped on the XLC on that side, and only open it on the other side. Of course this means that you have to carry more gear than strictly necessary.
Pretty much everybody worries about the question "what if I have to go to ground?" in the beginning. We have all been there. Most find it's not an issue. If you find that a hammock is more comfortable than sleeping on the ground, you'll get to the point where you do almost anything to not sleep on the ground. Where there's a will, there are two anchor pointsBut in case the terrain really is totally unsuitable to hanging, it's probably a good idea to leave the hammock at home and take a tent
However, I understand that it's not so easy to let go of the issue. But I don't see why you don't simply order the double layer XLC. The weight difference is not that huge, and no underquilt protector will ever push the pad against the hammock hard enough to get the same effect as a double layer hammock. An underquilt protector is supposed to protect your underquilt from dirt and rain, and keep the wind from robbing your warmth. In order to do that, it should not compress your underquilt. That means that it cannot push a pad against the hammock hard enough. Those two purposes are mutually exclusive.
I would suggest that you figure out how often you really expect to use a pad. If you're going to use it less than 30% of the time and weight is very important, get a single layer XLC. It is possible to use a pad on top of the single layer. I know one person who says his pad works better in his single layer XLC than in any other double layer hammock. And pads are *always* a bother; even when you are using a double layer. Pads + GE hammocks = not a match made in heaven. That's why most of the long-time hammock users are using underquilts almost exclusively. You'll probably get there eventually, too. Once you start using and enjoying an underquilt, it's very difficult to go back to a pad.
But if you really think you're going to use a pad more than 30% of the time, simply get a double layer XLC. Apart from a couple more ounces, I don't see any disadvantages.
This, I like.
Thanks hutzelbein for the detailed reply. Your explanation of the footbox, that helps clear up my understanding.
I plan to get a UQ + UQP. I plan hang and use UQ as much as possible, and only take a pad when I know or really fear I won't be able to hang every night. After reading your reply, I'm pretty decided to get a double-layer so that I can use a pad there. Maybe later, money permitting, if I want to save weight I'll get a SL too.
Agreed! I think I am seeing a concensus of colors as I read through the comments. All of these are great!
Warbonnet Colors.jpg
Will some of the new features on the XLC (ie the top cover) work it's way onto the Blackbird, too?
Last edited by heyduff; 10-16-2017 at 13:04.
Attach another sheet of fabric with tieouts on the bottom of Wooki. Slightly heavier but quick and elegant to reverse it by just flipping over.
Top fabric with biner and rubber band
Loft
Bottom fabric with tieouts or loops for biner and rubber band
No compression on loft. Boom.
Last edited by bishopsix; 10-17-2017 at 02:21.
So what would happen with the fabric that is not needed then? Would you roll it up? Would it have two suspensions in different lengths?
Quite honestly, I don't think it's this easy, and it would be a lot more expensive, too. You would have to design the baffles differently, to be able to attach the second layer and still make sure that the cut is differential from both sides.
It would be easier (and possibly cheaper AND lighter) to increase the insulated area to cover both lay directions. It would probably look like an X.
More expensive, I agree.
The inside of baffles are usually composed of thin mesh-like walls between each other and sewn to the upper and lower fabrics like square shaped honeycomb. Imagine a long square tube made of mesh.
These tubes are usually pre-fabricated, sewn to fabrics and later filled with downs. Or some manufacturers make the baffles themselves.
Either way attaching the baffles between two fabrics is time consuming but not extremely difficult if using pre-fabs.
The additional weight will be less than full fabric. The cover of baffles is needed anyway so the additional weight is from the area not covering baffles which is about 60 to 90 grams.
I would not attach additional cover for my Wooki but if there comes universal Wooki I would gladly make my order.
Thank you for your insight and two suspensions in different lengths is great idea.
Nice updates for sure.
Don't need...but...want.........may have to.
Shug
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