Incubator secondary suspension question

[Chesapeake]

Ive had several UQ's already since I fell into the hammock rabbit hole about a year and a half ago, and all of my down quilts , save the JRB winter nest, have had both primary and secondary suspensions. The JRB was my first down quilt and Forum purchase, but it has a separate suspension line for each end , so the first one I bought from a vendor that had both was my HG 0° standard length × width Dutch edition. It came with quilt hangers for the suspension. I thought / remembered seeing most people using S biners on their quilts , so when I got my CDT UQ ( that is quite a bit wider than all of my other UQ's) I used a mini S biner on each end, simply clipped the top to my CL's , ran both primary and secondary suspensions through the bottom, and then biased the head and foot corners using the secondary.

Now, when I got my HG minus10° 2 weeks ago, it came with HG's standard different color plastic S biners on each end , but the secondary wasn't just clipped into the bottom with the primary like I always had thought it was supposed to be, it was larks headed/girth hitched. Upon seeing this I didn't understand at first and thought it was maybe just put that way to keep it on during shipping or whatever. So before putting it on my XLC for the first time, I undid the hitch , clipped it in like normal and biased the corners I usually do.

This new HG quilt is a short length and while its long enough for my 5'7" frame, doesn't give me much room for error. So getting it perfectly dialed in without any gaps and biased for the direction I lay is critical in getting the quilt to cover me completely w/o my head being right where it cinches at the ends and potentially creating a space for cold air seepage or a gap. My question is this : does having the secondary girth hitched/ larks headed to the bottom of the S biner right in the middle of the shock cord like HG had it set up for me originally allow for it to be adjusted easier/ more accurately , is it better the way I thought it was to be done or does it not matter much at all ? Whats the benefit of it being hitched like that , does it make it easier to bias the corners w/o having the rest of the quilt move also? I want it to be done right, should I switch it back so I have the most adjustment possible for those deep winter nights when I might need every bit of its -10° rating working for me and not against me? How do you do it?

[Grits]

[SilvrSurfr]

All of my secondary suspensions are larksheaded or girth hitched onto the biner.

[OneClick]

Great video. Loving the looks of a black hammock. I saw another one this past weekend in person so I had to order one (Tree Runner from SLD).

[tennistime99]

[QUOTE=Chesapeake;1829994]My question is this : does having the secondary girth hitched/ larks headed to the bottom of the S biner right in the middle of the shock cord like HG had it set up for me originally allow for it to be adjusted easier/ more accurately , is it better the way I thought it was to be done or does it not matter much at all ? Whats the benefit of it being hitched like that , does it make it easier to bias the corners w/o having the rest of the quilt move also? /QUOTE]

If you undo the larks head the secondary will just slide through the s biner and re-center itself, drawing both corners in equally. You need the larks head to be able to adjust the corners individually, shortening one side while the other stays put.... Does that make sense??

Sent from my XT1575 using Tapatalk

[Chesapeake]

[QUOTE=tennistime99;1831834]

My question is this : does having the secondary girth hitched/ larks headed to the bottom of the S biner right in the middle of the shock cord like HG had it set up for me originally allow for it to be adjusted easier/ more accurately , is it better the way I thought it was to be done or does it not matter much at all ? Whats the benefit of it being hitched like that , does it make it easier to bias the corners w/o having the rest of the quilt move also? /QUOTE]

If you undo the larks head the secondary will just slide through the s biner and re-center itself, drawing both corners in equally. You need the larks head to be able to adjust the corners individually, shortening one side while the other stays put.... Does that make sense??

Sent from my XT1575 using Tapatalk

Sure does, Thanks! After thinking about it and redoing the hitch, it hit me that having it the other way wasn't doing much as far as adjusting my head and feet corners.