Page 2 of 4 FirstFirst 1234 LastLast
Results 11 to 20 of 31
  1. #11

    Join Date
    Oct 2014
    Location
    New Jersey
    Hammock
    WB XLC DL 1.7
    Tarp
    SuperFly
    Insulation
    Wooki/Mamba
    Posts
    1,718
    Images
    38
    Using 3/16" Amsteel for a hammock suspension whoopee sling this doesn't come into play but as I recall the Samson site mentions losing 40% strength when using a Brummel eye in a whoopee sling instead of a long eye. The bury will need to be longer for the long eye splice as opposed to the Brummel.

    I've used unscented dental floss to keep my long eye splices from falling apart when unloaded but pulling strands out of a extra length of Amsteel would match the color.

  2. #12
    Phantom Grappler's Avatar
    Join Date
    Mar 2014
    Location
    Denton NC
    Hammock
    WildernessLogics 12x6
    Tarp
    HG cuben 13ridge12
    Insulation
    TqUq and pad
    Suspension
    PhantomGrappler
    Posts
    2,355

    What size thread for locking the bury in amsteel eye splice?

    Quote Originally Posted by GreatBigDave View Post
    Using 3/16" Amsteel for a hammock suspension whoopee sling this doesn't come into play but as I recall the Samson site mentions losing 40% strength when using a Brummel eye in a whoopee sling instead of a long eye. The bury will need to be longer for the long eye splice as opposed to the Brummel.

    I've used unscented dental floss to keep my long eye splices from falling apart when unloaded but pulling strands out of a extra length of Amsteel would match the color.
    I know you right! Even though there is a loss of strength---I defer in this to wisdom of the herd.

    Don't most all cottage vendors use a locked brummel and bury for eye splices on thousands of whoopie slings? I think a locked brummel is less likely to fail than stitching---all that has to happen is thread break from catching on something like brush or bling and it can unravel overtime if not checked.

    I've never read a post here---My whoopie sling failed at eye splice!

    I think amsteel's strength bypasses weakness from locked brummels---I can be wrong--I guess a lot. Why use my brains when I can use Wisdom of Herd? Although group think can be fatal at times.

    And it's OK to thread stitch eye splice---I've not read about a sewn eye splice failing here either.

    Happy New Year Hammock Friends


    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

  3. #13

    Join Date
    Apr 2016
    Location
    new zealand
    Hammock
    DIY gathered end
    Tarp
    ???
    Insulation
    inflatable pad
    Suspension
    DIY whoopies
    Posts
    340
    Use polyester thread the same colour as your main line.

    #100 upholstery thread by guterman is great but any brand will work well.

    At that diameter you could use a locked brummel and the loss in breaking strain is still more than enough for 10x safety margin.

    Someone gave you bad advice on the thread taking the strain if you stitch the bury.
    Pull the line firm to engage the bury and then stitch it.
    The stitching does not have to be super tight and it only holds the line tight together so that the bury is in tight contact all the time-no risk of slippage at all when tension is first applied.

    Usually only stitched when no locked brummel is used.

    I do all ny eyes this way because i dont use a locked brummel anymore

  4. #14

    Join Date
    Apr 2016
    Location
    new zealand
    Hammock
    DIY gathered end
    Tarp
    ???
    Insulation
    inflatable pad
    Suspension
    DIY whoopies
    Posts
    340
    Quote Originally Posted by SCReddog View Post
    Yeah, I didn’t really think about it but the whole point of using hollow core rope is the ability to make it constrict on itself. Any old synthetic thread will keep it in place. Thanks to all who explained that one to me. I was going to use stitches this time and learn Brummells later but Hiker Bro and Phantom Grapplerhave me thinking about it. I tell people who are new to sailing all the time not to be intimidated by knots. Guess I should take my own advice.
    Knots in this stuff dont work too well.

    Or maybee that was jyst an example of "over complicating" things

  5. #15
    Lock Stitch instructions on Samson site.
    http://www.samsonrope.com/Documents/...edures_WEB.pdf

    I found this thread.
    http://www.joann.com/coats-andamp-cl...rd1130538.html
    I got Nugrey, even though the website does not show that color. It is nylon.
    I collect vintage camp stoves.
    I roast coffee at home.

  6. #16

    Join Date
    Apr 2016
    Location
    new zealand
    Hammock
    DIY gathered end
    Tarp
    ???
    Insulation
    inflatable pad
    Suspension
    DIY whoopies
    Posts
    340
    How did it go?

  7. #17
    Quote Originally Posted by jadekayak View Post
    How did it go?
    Ok, not a scientifically referenced reply.
    This is my first loop. And also my first lock stitch.

    The thread, Coats and Clark Extra Strong Upholstery Thread, is really strong.
    http://www.joann.com/coats-andamp-cl...rd1130538.html
    The needles are a pack of 1/5 hand threading needles.
    http://www.joann.com/cotton-darners-...g/1050012.html

    It threaded easily and tied off easily.
    I did not snug it very much.
    I pulled on it with most of my weight it held the stitch.

    The color Nugrey and the grey Amsteel Blue from Dutch blend well.
    I might suggest a complimentary color rather than similar.

    I can feel that the slippage I felt while handling the loop is gone.
    I cannot say when I will use this. I was just intrigued with making one.

    Ken in NC
    I collect vintage camp stoves.
    I roast coffee at home.

  8. #18
    Senior Member GadgetUK437's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jul 2015
    Location
    Devon, UK
    Posts
    1,936
    Images
    54
    Quote Originally Posted by GreatBigDave View Post
    but as I recall the Samson site mentions losing 40% strength when using a Brummel eye in a whoopee sling instead of a long eye
    I've heard this being quoted, but I'm struggling to find the source, have you a link (I've been wandering round in circles on the Samson site).



    --
    Gadget

  9. #19
    Senior Member jeff-oh's Avatar
    Join Date
    Oct 2017
    Location
    Ohio
    Hammock
    10.5' open or Grand Trunk w/bug net
    Tarp
    12' Hex
    Insulation
    HG UQ- Down Bag TQ
    Suspension
    UCR's/Whoopies
    Posts
    273
    Chicago Yacht Rigging did a full series of strength test on Amsteel knots, splices and constrictor connections. For the Brummel and Whoopie slings the break strengths were above the min rating. They assume an 85% performance factor on the Brummel (i.e. only 15% loss not 40%). The series is interesting and a good read of on 7 short pages.

    CYR's conclusion was the simple bury eye-splice was stronger and better than the locked Brummel.

    Though I question this.
    If you review their pictures the ropes failed at the end of the bury. The do not fail at the "Knot" (where the Brummel locks). The line broke where the fiber stress increases due to reduction in cross-sectional area &/or a stress concentration at the end of the bury. I believe their results are more influenced by material and manufacturing variances.

    Dyneema.jpg

    This has also led me to thinking about the Locked Brummel. The Eye cannot close down, how much bury is really necessary? My hypothesis is that the longer bury does not really affect overall line strength. I would love to test a locked Brummel with a minimal bury... Say 1" or a little more for line tapering. I would think the the concern would be potential unraveling of the line from where the weave is pierced to the cut end. your Thoughts?

    Link to CYR's article and test: http://www.chicagoyachtrigging.com/1...v=7516fd43adaa

  10. #20
    Senior Member GadgetUK437's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jul 2015
    Location
    Devon, UK
    Posts
    1,936
    Images
    54
    In my (very limited) testing, the test pieces failed at the tapered end of the bury (they had a locked brummel). That made sense to me, up 'til that point there is two lines sharing the load, hence they are stronger than the single line from there on. The single line will be weakest where the strands are less perfect, the tapered end of the bury is there to try to minimise the force multiplier effect of the transition from double line to single. The theory being a longer taper is stronger than short taper.
    I had not considered the locked brummel to be a critical part, because at that part the load on each part (the sheath and the bury) is shared and therefore halved.

    Here are my test videos,
    INTRO


    German 2.5mm 12 strand Dyneema

    Failed at 469kg (1034lb)

    Chinese 7/64" (2.78mm) 8 strand Dyneema

    was even stronger, failed at 716kg (1578lb)

  • + New Posts
  • Similar Threads

    1. Bury the end of Amsteel...
      By MikekiM in forum Do-It-Yourself (DIY)
      Replies: 7
      Last Post: 01-18-2016, 19:48
    2. how do you splice 7/64 amsteel?????
      By Tn guy in forum Do-It-Yourself (DIY)
      Replies: 31
      Last Post: 01-03-2015, 16:36
    3. 1/8 Amsteel blue UCRs (Utility Constrictor Rope) bury and eye splice lengths
      By Smoothisfast in forum Suspension Systems, Ridgelines, & Bug Nets
      Replies: 1
      Last Post: 08-19-2013, 14:06
    4. Bury for Amsteel 1/8 and 7/64 splices
      By perdidochas in forum Suspension Systems, Ridgelines, & Bug Nets
      Replies: 20
      Last Post: 06-23-2013, 09:54
    5. Amsteel eye splice
      By stretch in forum Suspension Systems, Ridgelines, & Bug Nets
      Replies: 0
      Last Post: 03-02-2009, 16:23

    Bookmarks

    Posting Permissions

    • You may not post new threads
    • You may not post replies
    • You may not post attachments
    • You may not edit your posts
    •