Using 3/16" Amsteel for a hammock suspension whoopee sling this doesn't come into play but as I recall the Samson site mentions losing 40% strength when using a Brummel eye in a whoopee sling instead of a long eye. The bury will need to be longer for the long eye splice as opposed to the Brummel.
I've used unscented dental floss to keep my long eye splices from falling apart when unloaded but pulling strands out of a extra length of Amsteel would match the color.
I know you right! Even though there is a loss of strength---I defer in this to wisdom of the herd.Originally Posted by GreatBigDave
Don't most all cottage vendors use a locked brummel and bury for eye splices on thousands of whoopie slings? I think a locked brummel is less likely to fail than stitching---all that has to happen is thread break from catching on something like brush or bling and it can unravel overtime if not checked.
I've never read a post here---My whoopie sling failed at eye splice!
I think amsteel's strength bypasses weakness from locked brummels---I can be wrong--I guess a lot. Why use my brains when I can use Wisdom of Herd? Although group think can be fatal at times.
And it's OK to thread stitch eye splice---I've not read about a sewn eye splice failing here either.
Happy New Year Hammock Friends
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Use polyester thread the same colour as your main line.
#100 upholstery thread by guterman is great but any brand will work well.
At that diameter you could use a locked brummel and the loss in breaking strain is still more than enough for 10x safety margin.
Someone gave you bad advice on the thread taking the strain if you stitch the bury.
Pull the line firm to engage the bury and then stitch it.
The stitching does not have to be super tight and it only holds the line tight together so that the bury is in tight contact all the time-no risk of slippage at all when tension is first applied.
Usually only stitched when no locked brummel is used.
I do all ny eyes this way because i dont use a locked brummel anymore
Knots in this stuff dont work too well.
Or maybee that was jyst an example of "over complicating" things
Lock Stitch instructions on Samson site.
http://www.samsonrope.com/Documents/...edures_WEB.pdf
I found this thread.
http://www.joann.com/coats-andamp-cl...rd1130538.html
I got Nugrey, even though the website does not show that color. It is nylon.
I collect vintage camp stoves.
I roast coffee at home.
How did it go?
Ok, not a scientifically referenced reply.
This is my first loop. And also my first lock stitch.
The thread, Coats and Clark Extra Strong Upholstery Thread, is really strong.
http://www.joann.com/coats-andamp-cl...rd1130538.html
The needles are a pack of 1/5 hand threading needles.
http://www.joann.com/cotton-darners-...g/1050012.html
It threaded easily and tied off easily.
I did not snug it very much.
I pulled on it with most of my weight it held the stitch.
The color Nugrey and the grey Amsteel Blue from Dutch blend well.
I might suggest a complimentary color rather than similar.
I can feel that the slippage I felt while handling the loop is gone.
I cannot say when I will use this. I was just intrigued with making one.
Ken in NC
I collect vintage camp stoves.
I roast coffee at home.
I've heard this being quoted, but I'm struggling to find the source, have you a link (I've been wandering round in circles on the Samson site).
--
Gadget
Last edited by GadgetUK437; 03-15-2018 at 04:04.
Chicago Yacht Rigging did a full series of strength test on Amsteel knots, splices and constrictor connections. For the Brummel and Whoopie slings the break strengths were above the min rating. They assume an 85% performance factor on the Brummel (i.e. only 15% loss not 40%). The series is interesting and a good read of on 7 short pages.
CYR's conclusion was the simple bury eye-splice was stronger and better than the locked Brummel.
Though I question this.
If you review their pictures the ropes failed at the end of the bury. The do not fail at the "Knot" (where the Brummel locks). The line broke where the fiber stress increases due to reduction in cross-sectional area &/or a stress concentration at the end of the bury. I believe their results are more influenced by material and manufacturing variances.
Dyneema.jpg
This has also led me to thinking about the Locked Brummel. The Eye cannot close down, how much bury is really necessary? My hypothesis is that the longer bury does not really affect overall line strength. I would love to test a locked Brummel with a minimal bury... Say 1" or a little more for line tapering. I would think the the concern would be potential unraveling of the line from where the weave is pierced to the cut end. your Thoughts?
Link to CYR's article and test: http://www.chicagoyachtrigging.com/1...v=7516fd43adaa
In my (very limited) testing, the test pieces failed at the tapered end of the bury (they had a locked brummel). That made sense to me, up 'til that point there is two lines sharing the load, hence they are stronger than the single line from there on. The single line will be weakest where the strands are less perfect, the tapered end of the bury is there to try to minimise the force multiplier effect of the transition from double line to single. The theory being a longer taper is stronger than short taper.
I had not considered the locked brummel to be a critical part, because at that part the load on each part (the sheath and the bury) is shared and therefore halved.
Here are my test videos,
INTRO
German 2.5mm 12 strand Dyneema
Failed at 469kg (1034lb)
Chinese 7/64" (2.78mm) 8 strand Dyneema
was even stronger, failed at 716kg (1578lb)
Last edited by GadgetUK437; 03-15-2018 at 09:58.
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