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  1. #11
    Senior Member Country Roads's Avatar
    Join Date
    Mar 2011
    Location
    North Central West Virginia
    Hammock
    DIY Hexon 1.0
    Tarp
    DIY Xenon Sil,
    Insulation
    3s Yeti
    Suspension
    straps & buckles
    Posts
    1,202
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    26
    I use a couple of 5 foot daisy chain straps to keep it easy. To make sure they don't slip. I first attach them to the horizontal bar (same as you would a tree by putting one end through the loop), then around the back of the vertical bar, then around and back over the on the vertical bar strap. Hard to explain. They don't slip, but I can move the attachment point down or up to accomodate different hammocks. They have never slipped. You do have to make sure the part of the strap on the Horizontal bar "tightens" in the same direction as the threads of the bar or the bar will loosen a bit, but I have never had one drop out. My vertical bars are about 5 1/2 feet high with the length being just under 10 1/2 feet to fit in the space that I have. It is not painted and is also not made of galvanized pipe, so would be fairly easy to paint. Mine does not leave the room, mostly because I used 2 inch boiler tubing and it is HEAVY.

  2. #12
    cougarmeat's Avatar
    Join Date
    Aug 2012
    Location
    Bend, OR
    Hammock
    WBBB, WBRR, WL LiteOwl
    Tarp
    OES, WL BullFro
    Insulation
    HG UQ, TQ, WB UQ
    Suspension
    Python Straps
    Posts
    3,783
    I put a T connection at the top of the vertical pipes so I have a "stub" to loop suspension on - but you can see the actual connection is further down the pipe. I also measured from the ground up and put a thin band of tape every several inches after 4 ft - so I can easily dial in a suspension height. I have two main horizontal pieces and a center piece I can put in if I want a longer span for a WWRR.

    Without diagonal bracing at the to 90 degree point, there is ... movement ... in the stand. But its purpose is a static holder, not a play ground toy, so it should be okay. But still, that's a bit of heavy pipe just above me. Maybe someday I'll add bracing. Maybe someday I'll get a turtle stand and sell my pipe. It is heavy, but carry-able.

    I can see, for maximum efficiency in setup/take down, that locking some connections and keeping others twistable is best. For example, at one time I considered taking the "feet" off each time. But I saw I was doing some kind of "hat dance" while I was holding the vertical pole, twisting the foot on, and having to step over it on each rotation. I could see that I need to think about the order of putting together for minimum fuzz and packing (in the back of a hatchback) for presentations. For example, should the top (90 degree) T be permanently connected to the vertical pipe or the horizontal ridge pipe.

    Pipe4.jpg

    Pipe1.jpg

    Pipe3.jpg

    Pipe2.jpg
    Last edited by cougarmeat; 02-09-2018 at 14:41.

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