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  1. #1
    Senior Member
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    First Bridge Hammock Build, Question(s)

    I've been using gathered ends for a while now and after a couple myog projects I thought it would be fun to try out a bridge hammock. I have the body all sewn up (did a Bic one). I did screw up and cut too much of the top but oh well... to my question. I don't want to invest cash for the Dutch clips and spreader bars yet, since I'm not sure if I will like it or not, can I sew on 1/2 straps to the corners, grab a stick or 2x2, put in a nail at 36", slide on some amsteal, and slide the hammock corners? Would it support my 220# beer belly? Later I would add in a spreader bar, unless someone has a good way to use hiking poles (not much info out there on it). Thanks.

  2. #2
    Senior Member
    Join Date
    Oct 2014
    Location
    Valpo, IN
    Hammock
    Towns-End Luxury Bridge
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    Metal hardware at the corners can be avoided.
    You can sew the webbing and girth hitch the dogbone directly to the webbing.

    A 2x2 with nails sounds like a good way to lose an eye, though I'm sure someone will chime in to the contrary.

    An oak dowel rod is a safer bet. If nothing else SPF lumber is in such bad shape these days that at least when you buy a dowel they have to use some decent wood.
    If you get sticker shocked on the oak dowel... an 1 1/2" pine should hold you, but inspect it carefully.

    But you might be halfway to buying a pair of real spreader bars if you are patient.

    Try looking up Professor Hammock on you tube, grizzly adams or WV here and you'll find some trekking pole info.
    But admittedly I found the trekking pole stuff intimidating and just went with poles or dowel rods when I started.

    http://www.backcountrygear.com/trekk...iABEgLPQ_D_BwE

    These poles are about the cheapest and easiest to convert, you can basically just use them as is.

  3. #3
    Senior Member WV's Avatar
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    theck, I agree with Bill. With 3/4" dowels I put a screw in the end, and put a little piece of tubing over the exposed threads where they might rub the amsteel. It only sticks out 1/2" or so. Trekking poles are a good option for people who weigh less than 175 lbs., but they need reinforcement of the locking mechanisms even at much lower loads.

  4. #4
    Senior Member
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    Thanks guys, pretty new to the bridge hammocks. I assumed that all the weight was transferred to along the lines from end to end and the bars just kept things in place. I am reading up now, there's not a huge amount of info out there on it, but that there's a lot of tension on the bars themselves as well.

  5. #5
    Senior Member
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    Valpo, IN
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    Towns-End Luxury Bridge
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    This isn't a webbing based bridge- but yar... the poles do quite a bit of work.
    You are correct- eventually the load is transferred fully to the webbing, and eventually up to the tree. But the poles play a big part along the way and tend to be the weak link in the system.
    I've used 1/2" grosgrain and 1 oz fabrics with dynaglide suspension... and snapped wood bars and dowels long before either of those UL parts wore out.
    Long term- you can see seam elongation and fabric failures at the center or ends... but more typically it's the bars that fail for folks.

    The learning curve is higher with bridges, but at the end of the day I find them much easier in actual use than a GE.
    You get good with anything given enough practice, but I find it easier to get the same 'hang' night after night with a bridge.

    But I still tell folks to use a GE first.
    Other than trying something new... there isn't anything so magical about a bridge that justifies leaving a perfectly good GE if you are happy.
    If you aren't happy... try a bridge.

    If you're mildly mentally disturbed and a glutton for punishment- then try building them

  6. #6
    Senior Member
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    Dec 2016
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    Lakewood, OH
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    I'm mostly interested in them to see if I can get a GG pad for example that's ultralight instead of a underquilt and be able to lay on my stomach. I'm a stomach sleeper but ok in a hammock though I wake every now and again to reposition myself (I do that when we are camping in the trailer and think it's just camping that does it to me). Overall I like the GE but building a bridge just looked so easy... And the cutting and sewing part was cake. I was just hoping to spend less cash on it thinking it could be hung with Amstel and a simple 2x2 or something.

  7. #7
    Senior Member WV's Avatar
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    The fact that you're willing to consider making a bridge hammock (or any piece of gear) yourself is a plus.
    The fact that you're a stomach sleeper is a minus. I suggest that instead of making a bridge, try making a larger GE hammock to give yourself room to move around (and turn over). Increasing the length brings more benefit than increasing the width, IMO. Then think about underquilts; I won't say more.

  8. #8
    Senior Member
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    Ha. Well the fabric cost was only $20 and the other materials I had leftover from packs I was building so I figured why not. I didn't expect another $40 for poles and hardware but oh well. If I didn't like it compared to my GE I'll see if my buddy wants it that's super poor and still in a 6# tent ha... I'm comfortable enough in my GE but always looking to improve my sleep even if I have to add a little more weight (but not too much ha). I have a 11' Dutch wide which I love and an 11' DH Darien that's a bit more confined but that's due to the net. I use UQ with those but was curious about Bridges and pads so I could go from a shelter if in a pinch then back to the air.

  9. #9
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    Mar 2015
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    Bay area CA
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    I just finished my first bridge (also a Bic). I essentially made my own dutch clips out of some aluminum I had laying around. I can get some pics if you're interested.

  10. #10
    Senior Member
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    Ya send some photos. Did you use a drill and grinder? I just have to rummage up some aluminum.

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