I have a loop on the end of my tree strap.
What is the argument against using a girth hitch to attach a spike to the loop instead of a marlin hitch on the running length of the strap.
I think both would release equally well.
I have a loop on the end of my tree strap.
What is the argument against using a girth hitch to attach a spike to the loop instead of a marlin hitch on the running length of the strap.
I think both would release equally well.
I think what you'll run into with a girth hitch is you're stuck with hanging the hammock from the very end of the strap. With a marlin spike hitch, the hammock can be hung from anywhere along free length of the strap.
Other than that, I don't see any reason you couldn't use a girth hitch.
I have heard your confession I know who you blame
If you had it all back you'd just lose it again
Can't bank on redemption if you ain't saved
Don't bring me your tales of temptation and loss
Don't bring me the pieces of your shattered cross
-- Stuart Adamson
The biggest problem I see with the girth hitch is that the weight of the hammock and occupant will be on the toggle which means you need a toggle capable of withstanding the forces. For that I do not trust anything less than 1/4" diameter steel or Ti toggles.
With the Marlin Spike Hitch, if done properly, the knot itself and not the toggle supports the forces. Thus, the toggle can be something like a small piece of branch picked up off the ground. I have used small sections of branch as small as 1/8" diameter in my Marlin Spike Hitches in webbing.
Those who sacrifice freedom for safety, have neither.
Do not dig your grave with your teeth. (Unknown)
As others have said, the main detriment is that the toggle is load bearing, but at high tension, the girth hitch will slide unless you cross the working end tail under the standing end tail to add more friction. I've pulled vehicles with both variations, and the crossed version holds to the breaking point of the rope, generally.
HTH,
Acer
It's better to have it and not need it than need it and not have it.
Formerly known as Acercanto, my trail name is MacGuyver to some, and Pucker Factor to others.
It's not procrastinating, its proactively delaying the implementation of the energy-intensive phase of the project until the enthusiasm factor is at its maximum effectiveness. - Randy Glasbergen
I have heard your confession I know who you blame
If you had it all back you'd just lose it again
Can't bank on redemption if you ain't saved
Don't bring me your tales of temptation and loss
Don't bring me the pieces of your shattered cross
-- Stuart Adamson
Here's the 2 variations:
With the working end (tail) on top of the standing line, there's less friction, and it slips considerably sooner.
girthhitchbad.JPG
But with the working end (tail) under the standing end, it grips much better
girthhitchcorrect.JPG
Acer
It's better to have it and not need it than need it and not have it.
Formerly known as Acercanto, my trail name is MacGuyver to some, and Pucker Factor to others.
It's not procrastinating, its proactively delaying the implementation of the energy-intensive phase of the project until the enthusiasm factor is at its maximum effectiveness. - Randy Glasbergen
Here's a video.
http://www.ehow.com/video_2355269_gi...not-tying.html
Cannot show you a picture, but can describe a way of tying a Girth Hitch in the middle of a rope without passing the ends through the bight.
Form the bight where you want the hitch.
Bend the bight back over the rope and pull the sides past the rope forming the hitch. Now insert the toggle into the hitch and pull tight.
This can only be done around objects, such as the toggle, that can be inserted into the hitch.
Technically the Cow Hitch, which looks identical to the Girth Hitch, cannot be done this way, since the Cow Hitch is formed on the ring in the nose of a cow. The ring cannot be inserted into the hitch.
Those who sacrifice freedom for safety, have neither.
Do not dig your grave with your teeth. (Unknown)
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