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  1. #11
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    Quote Originally Posted by Festus Hagen View Post
    "For a continuous ridgeline". For a tarp ridgeline?

    I'm using the micro carabiners from the hammockforums store for my tarp ridgeline. 3.2 grams, they say... Strong enough to withstand a good solid trucker's hitch on the other end. Not sure if you mean something else by "continuous ridgeline" but I can't think why you'd need a climbing 'biner just for a tarp ridgeline.
    Yeah for a tarp, when I said lightest I presumed smallest. I wouldn't want a big shiny thing attached to a ridgeline. My plan was to have it Clove Hitched to one end of a Zing It ridgeline and then to have a Nite-Ize Figure 9 on the other end.
    I'd rather have this than the No-Knot Knot because I believe that needs tension applied to it to be tied. Which wouldn't work if it's the first to be tied.

    Thank you all for your responses.

  2. #12
    Senior Member TrailH4x's Avatar
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    Me, I don't need no stinkin' biner, kneaux.

    If you want quick and light and don't absolutely have to have a biner in the assymbly, form a loop in the first end of the line and toggle it.

    Ridgeline ready to pack away with all components:
    PIC_0327.jpg

    Primary end (Toggled):
    5" gutted paracord threaded onto 3" locked brummel splice. Toggle is a 3/4" end cross drilled piece of galvanized steel tent stake (I now tether to the loop to keep it from getting lost). The red covering makes the primary end easy to find and it looks real geek too.
    PIC_0328.jpg PIC_0329.jpg

    Secondary end (Fig9):
    ridgeline is threaded through the eye of the Fig9. (I haven't lost any since I threaded it onto the line ).
    PIC_0334.jpg PIC_0335.jpg PIC_0336.jpg
    THis pic has the Fig9 midline attached as instructed by the manufacturer instead of threaded. I've found that the Fig9 twists weird in this configuaation unless you keep it several feet or more from the tree (departure and attachement angles of standing part are nearly 90°). Oh, and be sure to pack a couple extra Fig9's if you use this method. You will probably need them sooner or later...
    PIC_0337.jpg

    I'll post again a little later with my main two methods of securing my tarp. For now, just know I use the mini slide locks threaded onto the ridgeline and a 5" knotted tag of dynaglide on the tarp D-Rings.
    Last edited by TrailH4x; 04-15-2010 at 13:34. Reason: purdy picha's added.
    H4x
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    "You step into the Road, and if you don't keep your feet, there is no telling where you might be swept off to." Bilbo Baggins, as quoted by Frodo The Fellowship of the Ring

  3. #13
    Senior Member Festus Hagen's Avatar
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    I'm sure there's something out there incrementally lighter than the micro-biner (isn't there always something a tiny bit better?) but at 3.2 grams it's going to be tough to beat by much.

    The first picture I posted showed a micro-biner clipped to a bowline loop. Pull it around the tree, clip the biner to the ridgeline... simple.

    For the other end, I use a trucker's hitch. I resisted learning these knots for a long time, but they're not too hard to master. The nice thing about the trucker's hitch is that you get mechanical advantage (like a pulley) I think it gives 3:1 advantage (less friction) which makes a guitar-string-tight ridgeline easy to achieve.

    To tension my tarp, I have two more micro-biners prusik-ed to the ridgeline. Clip one on each end of the tarp and tighten.

    BTW if it weren't for all I've learned here at HF I'd still be using nothing but overhand knots...





  4. #14
    Senior Member Albert Skye's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Knotty View Post
    If you really want to cut weight, check out the loop shackles thread.
    http://www.hammockforums.net/forum/s...ead.php?t=9059

    Using them as pictured (with a very small radius bend) also cuts the strength efficiency of the rope (by the way, the numbers are likely worse for HM cord). I like soft shackles but I wouldn't use them in that application.

  5. #15
    Senior Member oldgringo's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Albert Skye View Post
    Using them as pictured (with a very small radius bend) also cuts the strength efficiency of the rope (by the way, the numbers are likely worse for HM cord). I like soft shackles but I wouldn't use them in that application.
    On a tarp, Albert? Really? Why not?
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    "Loneliness is the poverty of self; solitude is the richness of self."~~~May Sarton

  6. #16
    Senior Member Albert Skye's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by oldgringo View Post
    On a tarp, Albert? Really? Why not?
    I didn't know that was a tarp attachment.

    In any case, the reason is the same. I prefer to maximise strength efficiency (and minimise volume and weight).

  7. #17
    Quote Originally Posted by Albert Skye View Post
    I didn't know that was a tarp attachment.
    FYI: I was looking at it "backwards" too. I thought that pic was a small treehugger on the left shackled to a whoppie sling on the right. Knowing that a connection like that will derate the rope by 50% is great info.

  8. #18
    Senior Member Festus Hagen's Avatar
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    The picture, to me, looks like a tree strap/whoopie connection. I guess there are probably folks who carry a separate set of huggers for their tarp, I just haven't met them yet

    Amsteel is probably strong enough to use in this application, even knotted and bent to such a tight radius... I'd think the big problem would be getting the knot to hold. Me, I like the toggle/marlin spike method, as it allows me to use the same size strap on various diameter trees without having to connect farther off a smaller tree than I might want to (if that makes any sense?)

    For the ridgeline, I still like the 3.2 gram micro-crab...


    Quote Originally Posted by Albert Skye View Post
    I didn't know that was a tarp attachment.

    In any case, the reason is the same. I prefer to maximise strength efficiency (and minimise volume and weight).

  9. #19
    Quote Originally Posted by Festus Hagen View Post
    Amsteel is probably strong enough to use in this application, even knotted and bent to such a tight radius... I'd think the big problem would be getting the knot to hold.
    It's not knotted the way you're thinking. It's a diamond hitch stopper as part of a nacrabiner. One of my favorite toys even though I'm a wuss and do the girth hitch version. The little picture above the big picture shows the nacrabiner open.

    http://www.hammockforums.net/forum/s...t=10977&page=2

  10. #20
    Senior Member Festus Hagen's Avatar
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    Actually, it's knotted in exactly the way I'm thinking I just figured it would be harder to get the stopper knot to hold in Amsteel (never having tried this, myself, so I prolly should have shut up)

    I see right here this thread advises to use the diamond knot when making them from Amsteel... I had seen this thread before but failed to zero in on the details I guess.

    http://www.hammockforums.net/forum/s...ead.php?t=9059

    Quote Originally Posted by Boris Losdindawoods View Post
    It's not knotted the way you're thinking. It's a diamond hitch stopper as part of a nacrabiner. One of my favorite toys even though I'm a wuss and do the girth hitch version. The little picture above the big picture shows the nacrabiner open.

    http://www.hammockforums.net/forum/s...t=10977&page=2

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