What if you did not use a shockcord at all?
What if you put velcro on the underquilt, and velcro on the HH SS undercover, as seen in these pictures.
My DIY underquilt size is minimal, mummy shaped, and attaches just where it needs to be on the SS undercover, but, also along side the undercovers' bottom opening, to the foot posistion area,.....not over it. So, it is never in the way. There are no gaps, because the velcro in all the way around. It has 9 oz. of down, but, because of the minimal size, it can loft up to 5". The torso area of this UQ is differentially cut, for 5", and the leg and head parts are 3", so the down is where it does the most good. Karo baffels make it easy to get the down posistioned. I have always used karo baffels, and, have never had any issues with the down moving around. The second shockcord in the HH SS, the one which adjusts the TOP tension, is usually hard to find, it is located on the foot end, usually tucked well down into the silnylon hem. It can be tightened though, to give the perimiter top edges of the SS a firmmer fit. So, there can never be any air gaps. I have used this undercover down to 30 degrees so far this season. It works perfectly, compresses to just about nothing, and, best of all, fits dependably, with no fussing. Incidentally, the fabric for this is probably water proof, and, it lofts up fine. I could probably have put a layer if IX in there too, I have a layer of that in my down quilt, and, think it makes it warmer.
Never more than one man left behind, so far !
I just tie an over hand knot and leave the loop so all I have to do is pull the loop out and wallah...it makes adjusting the UQ difficult from the hammock if I want to vent it at night but keeps it real snug up against my body. WB im gonnna try your purssick knot Ideah. This may prevent the cord lock from slipping.
Sometimes I like to hike and think, And sometimes I just like to hike.
Hiking is'ent about waiting for the storm to pass its about learning to hike in the rain.
When I got my Crowsnest I had problems with gaps and I didn't want to shorten the shock chord so much that it would be like arming a cross bow just to set it up. Instead I cut the chord in half and put loops on the cut ends and now I just attach both ends to 2 prussics I put on the ridgeline. The bug net for the Switchback hangs from the same biners. I can still adjust pretty easily and I have had no gaps at all since I started doing this. I don't know if this would work as well in cold weather.
But one quilt that has never sagged a bit is the PeaPod, even at 10F, and I don't think it ever will. Neither did the JRB MW4 at about the same temp, or the SS with jackets and vests in the UC, in high teens, for that matter. But I have no experience at much colder temps. But I do wonder if there is an advantage to the shorter elastic shock cord suspensions on the MW4 and SS, compared to the long shock cord on a Yeti? Or maybe not, maybe I have just not tested cold enough to tell.
But the PeaPod has no elastics or shock cord. It has a full length Velcro top closure combined with some nylons "shoe laces" on the ends. I tighten those up to leave enough pod sag beneath the hammock so that it just barely touches my back, or maybe a very small gap, after I get in. That Nylon cord does not stretch with this small amount of weight.
So I am wondering: how would it work to replace the full circumference shock cord with something relatively non-stretchable? And rigged so that you adjust it after you get in by pulling the suspension line- kind of like an adjustable RL- until it is nice and snug against your back?
I don't know if that would work or not. The "give" in the shock cord might be needed when you move around or adjust the UQ from head to toe?
Apparently, signature that I used from 2006 no longer tolerated so now deleted.