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  1. #31
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    Quote Originally Posted by opie984 View Post
    Also, I use the wire core from coax cable bent in half to do my splicing. Works great!
    I too have used this for 7/64 and 1/8 since, like the telephone wire, it was just laying around in storage.

  2. #32
    Senior Member opie's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by opie984 View Post
    Anyone know how this compares to the strength numbers of the nacrabiner?

    Also, I use the wire core from coax cable bent in half to do my splicing. Works great!
    Im going to pull some apart this weekend for some hard numbers.

  3. #33
    Senior Member Mindwalk's Avatar
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    Started making these with 7/64 and then made some with 1.75mm (a bit harder, but works), using 24 gauge wire. These things are awesome. It's kind of addicting; give's idle hands something to do in front of the TV.

    Thanks Opie.

  4. #34
    Senior Member opie's Avatar
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    OK... Updated measurements...

    Starting length is the same, but instead of making your second mark at 3.5", make it at 2.5". The reason I changed this is because I didnt want to chance only having the knot lock the bury. What this does is now places the point at which both buries meet on the non loaded side of the knot. So no chance at all if it coming out. As you start dressing your knot, keep the meeting point of the main bury and the backsplice right at the non loaded side of the knot.

    make sense?

    Oh.. It also frees up some useable line to make the actual dimension of the shackle larger. Not much, but some.

  5. #35
    Senior Member opie's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Mindwalk View Post
    Started making these with 7/64 and then made some with 1.75mm (a bit harder, but works), using 24 gauge wire. These things are awesome. It's kind of addicting; give's idle hands something to do in front of the TV.

    Thanks Opie.
    Sounds like someone is having to much fun!

  6. #36
    Senior Member Wolverine's Avatar
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    Soft Shackle pictorial

    I've order enough Amsteel to make myself a couple of these with a few spares. I've also ordered the Splicing wire for this project. While I'm waiting for these to arrive. I've been thinking this over very carefully.

    Instructions about placement of the stopper knot seems to make sense. This will be my first attempt at doing any splicing, so how do I unhook the back splice once I get it to where I think it needs to be. Grabbing the end is easy enough, how do I release it? Thanks.

  7. #37
    Senior Member opie's Avatar
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    Wolverine... Thats a tricky question. I still have trouble getting consistent backsplices.

    When you start pulling the backsplice through, dont milk all the outer rope over the inner rope. As you pull the inner rope out of the outer rope where you inserted your splicing wire, pull it out JUST enough to unhook your splicing wire. Then milk the outer rope down over the inner rope. You will end up with either some still sticking out, or a small gap between the buries. Going with the new 2.5" measurement doesnt leave a newbie much room for a backsplice. Id suggest you stick to the initial measurements and when you tie your stopper, make sure that the point at which the buries meet is on the backside of the knot.

    Make sense? If not, when you get your line, it will. If it still doesnt, Ill walk you through it.

  8. #38
    Senior Member opie's Avatar
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    Ive got to make several of these tonight, Ill do a short demo on the backsplice.

  9. #39
    Senior Member opie's Avatar
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    OK... Backsplice... This is the same no matter what your making.. a backsplice is a backsplice. I do run a longer backsplice in my other products, but thats because I have more room.











    Here is what the end of a backsplice should look like when done properly...


  10. #40
    Senior Member Wolverine's Avatar
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    Soft Shackle pictorial

    Opie,

    Wow, that was outstanding! I'll give it my best. Excellent tutorial. Thanks.

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