Friday, June 25, 2010
With summer heat so intense that I chose not to complete my BMT section hike, I headed to the high country of the Mt Rogers area in southwest Virginia. I began my hike in evening cool, stepping off around 7 PM at the Old Orchard Trailhead where the AT crosses VA 603.
I headed uphill toward Old Orchard shelter, 1.7 miles away. It was refreshing to walk wide, well-groomed trail on a gentle uphill grade.
After about 45 minutes, I arrived at the shelter area which had become a bit of a tent city. On the left was half a dozen tents from a girls group. On the right was a group of tents from what I discovered was a group of policemen, up for a nationwide program in which policemen from all 50 states would summit their state’s high point at noon on Saturday. There was only one section hiker tucked into the shelter with her dog.
I headed a bit past the shelter and hung my hammock in the trees, achieving a bit of privacy despite the crowded condition on the other side of Old Orchard. Here, I settled in for the night.
Saturday, June 26, 2010
I got up around 7:30 as the girls’ group was hiking out. I relaxed a bit, packed up, then ate breakfast at the picnic table at the shelter. I stepped off around 8:30 and headed uphill on the AT. The tread got progressively rougher, packed with rocks and roots, but it was still smoother than most of the smaller trails I have been hiking in full summer foliage. It wasn’t long before I reached the intersection with the Pine Mountain Trail.
Dewey Bear and I took the Pine Mountain Trail, which also soon opened up into the sweeping views so well known in the Grayson Highlands area.
Soon after, I reached the intersection with the Crest Trail. I stepped up to check out the grove of trees where I hung my hammock for a night last year. Just like last year, a herd of wild ponies were grazing there.
From this point, I pushed on up the Pine Mountain Trail to Thomas Knob Shelter. The place was swarming with dayhikers, heading up to summit Mt. Rogers. Most were hiking in from Grayson Highlands State Park. I also ran into Nean, sometime I’ve known online for some time, but only just met in real life. I had lunch and hung my hammock for a nap. But the noise of so many dayhikers kept me awake.
I decided to grab Dewey and my stuffsack/daypack and summit Mt. Rogers myself. At the top, we both paused for a photo with the summit benchmark.
We returned to Thomas Knob, where I managed a few minutes worth of a nap before I packed up to continue my journey south. As I rounded the southern edge of Mt Rogers ridge, I faced the choice of continuing on the AT or to veer off onto the sweeping pass that the Virginia Highlands Horse Trail followed. Good views and a blue-blazing spirit led me onto the horse trail.
The trail became very rocky as it led down to Deep Gap, so I rejoined the AT there. I pushed on another half mile or so before I eased over to a comfortable dry campsite on Elk Garden Ridge.
I cooked dinner and settled in for the night.
Sunday, June 27, 2010
I awoke to foggy conditions. There was a hint of dampness up on the ridge, but the fog was much thicker down low. I descended into the mist toward Elk Garden.
I then climbed uphill along the southern edge of Whitetop Mountain. As I crossed the summit road, I passed Nean and Bambo’s campsite. They were taking their time packing up, letting their tents dry out from heavy morning dew. The sun had mostly come out and was turning into a beautifully cool day in the highlands. The views at Buzzard Rock were breathtaking.
I continued on down the trail, saying hello to a curious deer as I wandered past.
Nean passed me by while I took a break near Beech Mountain Road. He mentioned he was meeting a friend at Grassy Creek Road, a mile past Lost Mountain Shelter and invited me to join in for the food that would likely be waiting. I continued on, only stopping at Lost Mountain Shelter long enough to grab water and sign the register.
At Grassy Creek Road, I sat and socialized over chicken and a beer, courtesy of Jack, Nean’s friend from down the trail in Shady Valley, TN.
I continued on, joining the Virginia Creeper Trail and its many long railroad trestle bridges.
I pushed on to the point where the AT left the Creeper. Just past it, I found a beautiful stealth site right next to a trestle bridge. A thin line of trees hid my camp for the hundreds of cyclists that zoomed by.
I headed back up to the AT intersection and said goodbyes as Nean, Jack, and Bambo headed up the AT. I then returned to my camp and washed up in the creek beneath the trestle. The camp was nearly perfect, with the only detractor the smell of creosote from the huge cross-timbers currently being replaced as part of a massive restoration project. Despite this, I settled in for the night, quite happy from a great day.
Monday, June 28, 2010
I awoke around 2 AM to a heavy rain pouring down. I pulled my tarp into place and went back to sleep. I awoke a bit after 7:30 and got rolling around 8:30. The Creeper Trail offered a very fast smooth path into Damascus amid the morning fog.
An hour later I rolled into Taylor’s Valley. On Sunday afternoon, three different restaurants or snack stands offered up sodas, ice cream, and treats to the throngs of cyclists. But on a Monday morning, they were all closed.
I headed on, making excellent time as I followed Whitetop Laurel Creek. The trestle bridges continued and made great time to Straight Branch trailhead where I stopped at the bench and privy for a short break. I knew I was getting close to Damascus as I reached the large original steel trestle bridge near town.
The trail opened up into warm open sun in the last mile as I neared town. I bypassed the junction where the AT rejoined the Creeper and soon entered town.
I checked into the air-conditioned bunkhouse at the Hikers’ Inn, grabbed a burger and fries from the Whistlepig, and got busy with town chores. As I finished those, Nean and his group arrived in town and I joined them at Quincy’s. The rest of the day was a chance to relax. I ran into a couple of other friends, Lone Wolf and Bilge Rat, when I headed back to Quincy’s for dinner. It was a great day.
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