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  1. #381
    Senior Member Rain Man's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by egrant5329 View Post
    Have you had any that peeled? I am curious if it was or wasn't water proof after peeling.
    Yes, I did learn quickly that it would peel off. Stopped doing it that way, so never tested it for waterproofness after peeling.

    Quote Originally Posted by egrant5329 View Post
    For some reason I was under the impression that it is the silicone adhering to the thread that is important and not so much the coating, unlike urethane where the coating is important.
    That's my impression too, the stuff saturates and fills tiny gaps between the threads, thus another reason not to put it on thick. Just extra weight for no reason.[/QUOTE]

    Quote Originally Posted by egrant5329 View Post
    It was near freezing when I did it in my garage and at that time I didn't want to mess with multiple coats and doing it more than once.
    AHA! I don't blame you at all.

    Rain Man

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    "You can stand tall without standing on someone. You can be a victor without having victims." --Harriet Woods

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  2. #382
    Senior Member Rain Man's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by egrant5329 View Post
    Have you had any that peeled? I am curious if it was or wasn't water proof after peeling.
    Yes, I did learn quickly that it would peel off. Stopped doing it that way, so never tested it for waterproofness after peeling.

    Quote Originally Posted by egrant5329 View Post
    For some reason I was under the impression that it is the silicone adhering to the thread that is important and not so much the coating, unlike urethane where the coating is important.
    That's my impression too, the stuff saturates and fills tiny gaps between the threads, thus another reason not to put it on thick. Just extra weight for no reason.[/QUOTE]

    Quote Originally Posted by egrant5329 View Post
    It was near freezing when I did it in my garage and at that time I didn't want to mess with multiple coats and doing it more than once.
    AHA! I don't blame you at all.

    Rain Man

    .
    "You can stand tall without standing on someone. You can be a victor without having victims." --Harriet Woods

    http://www.MeetUp.com/NashvilleBackpacker
    .

  3. #383
    Senior Member egrant5329's Avatar
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    Well about an hour ago I took the bottle with the little bit of silicone/mineral spirits still oozing around in it and added more mineral spirits (totally non scientific without volumes or measurements). After shaking it up really well, I took a piece of the same 1.1oz ripstop weighing 10gm and kneaded it in the concoction for a few minutes. I then squeezed as much fluid off as I could and hung it up. I'll post the change in weight when it dries.

    It was easier to soak the material, the entire piece was saturated without having to work the surface with a foam brush and I didn't have to wipe the extra silicone off the surface. I think the final weight will tell me how close it is to premade nysil. If it works out, it will be a vastly superior way to coat the nylon than the thick mixture I used the first time.
    Ed

  4. #384
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    I've got a couple of hypotheticals / questions I'd like to pose, if anyone would care to take whacks at em, please do.

    1. I'm thinking that the angles of a typical hammock tarp should shed water virtually all water with zero coating.

    2. There could be a water problem from capillary action of hanging a nylon tarp over a centerline. Or from water running down the tie offs and creeping in. Are there others I've not thought of?

    3. I'm thinking paint roller's width of sil at the center line would kill the action of #2.

    4. Has anyone tried this using wax? Waxed cotton used to be the sil of the day. Would nylon absorb it like cotton does?
    Last edited by rturtle; 12-19-2011 at 17:04.

  5. #385
    Senior Member egrant5329's Avatar
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    I don't have enough experience hanging in the rain to comment about the angle. So far when I have used mine it wasn't pitched real steeply. Water would hang around quite a bit before pooling and running off.

    I also hang my tarp under the ridge line with a prussic on each end to move the tarp along the ridge line to where I want it more easily.

    On my experiment with the thinner silicone, my scale wasn't sensitive enough to measure the weight gain accurately. It went from 10gm to 11gm, but it needs another decimal of accuracy. I bet it is very close to commercial material.
    Ed

  6. #386
    Senior Member egrant5329's Avatar
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    Here is an example of my first bridge hanging. If I would have hung my tarp about a foot higher it would have been nearly perfect.
    Attached Images Attached Images
    Ed

  7. #387
    Senior Member Jazilla's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by rturtle View Post
    I've got a couple of hypotheticals / questions I'd like to pose, if anyone would care to take whacks at em, please do.

    1. I'm thinking that the angles of a typical hammock tarp should shed water virtually all water with zero coating.

    2. There could be a water problem from capillary action of hanging a nylon tarp over a centerline. Or from water running down the tie offs and creeping in. Are there others I've not thought of?

    3. I'm thinking paint roller's width of sil at the center line would kill the action of #2.

    4. Has anyone tried this using wax? Waxed cotton used to be the sil of the day. Would nylon absorb it like cotton does?
    Nylon naturally absorbs water. as it rains and the nylon tarp reaches its saturation point it will saturate you. No matter how steep you pitch a nylon tarp with no treatment it will absorb water.
    Yosemite Sam: Are you trying to make me look a fool?
    Bugs: You don't need me to make you look like a fool.
    Yosemite Sam: Yer deerrrnnn right I don't!

  8. #388
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    Thanks for the input. Just wanted to leave this here. In researching this, I found one of the things the industry uses:

    http://www.dowcorning.com/content/te...one_Rubber.asp

    Dow Corning LS 4325 is the solvent based silicone recommended for tents.
    Last edited by rturtle; 12-21-2011 at 10:05.

  9. #389
    Senior Member Knotty's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by rturtle View Post
    Thanks for the input. Just wanted to leave this here. In researching this, I found one of the things the industry uses:

    http://www.dowcorning.com/content/te...one_Rubber.asp

    Dow Corning LS 4325 is the solvent based silicone recommended for tents.
    From that site: Heat-activated platinum-catalyzed addition cure

    Probably not something us DIYers can handle.
    Knotty
    "Don't speak unless it improves the silence." -proverb
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  10. #390
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    That's true for the solventless Liquid Silicone Rubber. The solvent based stuff might be doable?

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