The knot I was thinking about is the Masthead.
http://www.ropeworks.biz/archive/masthead.html
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Jury_mast_knot
After thinking about this, I wondering if there's really an advantage to having 3 or 4 loops. I suppose there would be less stress than 3 tendons on a single attachment point, but it would make rigging more complecated.
Last edited by CajunHiker; 09-24-2010 at 11:36.
To Boldly Hang Where No One Has Hung Before...
You could just throw a butterfly knot into the rope and then whip it around the end of the bamboo so that the knot is in the middle of the whipping. This would provide an inline knot with support on both sides.Originally Posted by CajunHiker
The butterfly knot is effective when both sides of the rope will be under tension (like they would be if whipped) and it reduces the effective strength of the rope less than most other knots that provide a bight in the middle of the rope.
You could put multiple butterfly knots spaced appropriately to provide multiple attachment points if you wanted.
That might work, but I'm not sure the whipping would be suited for the direction of the tension.
To Boldly Hang Where No One Has Hung Before...
You guys could probably save some money on hardware by drilling holes in the ends of your struts that would accommodate snap locks of some type ( seems like everyone here already has an abundance of these) then attach your tendons to this.
I will be doing this myself this weekend , I have an abundance of poles, snap locks and light weight chain so this is what I will use. I`m not sure using the chain and attaching the struts to specific chain links adheres to the tensegrity principles , but it should allow me to quickly be able to experiment with lengths .
Have you a picture of one?
- MacEntyre
"We must, indeed, all hang together or, most assuredly, we shall all hang separately." - Ben Franklin
www.MollyMacGear.com
I was wondering about aluminum T-bar like this
http://www.ryerson.com/stocklist/t-1...-Standard.html
Less aluminum, so probably cheaper. Available in 25' lengths. Can drill through the flange easily. But I don;t know what the forces in a Tensegrity will do to it.
http://www.homedepot.com/Tools-Hardw...atalogId=10053
Spring link, for some reason we call them snap locks on the job, probably because we never bothered to look up the proper terminology.
I eschew hardware, unless it is made by Dutch!
I wonder... could an eye of amsteel could be passed through the same smoothed hole, instead of a snap lock, and a Dutch Biner snapped onto the eye inside the pole? All three tendons at that pole could be fastened to the same Dutch Biner.
- MacEntyre
"We must, indeed, all hang together or, most assuredly, we shall all hang separately." - Ben Franklin
www.MollyMacGear.com
Note that a Dutch biner is four times as strong as the snaplock. A 3/8" quick link is a better choice if you want to get your hardware at Lowes, but it is still only half to two thirds as strong as the Dutch biner. Other biners, like the ones from treklight (500 kg) work well, too.I eschew hardware, unless it is made by Dutch!
I wonder... could an eye of amsteel could be passed through the same smoothed hole, instead of a snap lock, and a Dutch Biner snapped onto the eye inside the pole? All three tendons at that pole could be fastened to the same Dutch Biner.
I used gated cable connectors through holes drilled in the ends of the struts to connect the tendons. It is working well, but I am getting some bending and stress showing around the holes and ends of the struts that is causing me some concern. I will be working on a better connector in my v2 stand.
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