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  1. #31
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    I'm always amused at the advice given about the trailing rope tie off...

    Having spent my childhood and teen years sailing as much as I could. I've been on the end of a trailing rope... There's a LOT of water moving past you even when there's very little wind. In a small dinghy it may move into irons fairly quickly.

    With a larger boat there may be an auto helm that prevents or the rudder configuration will at least discourage the boat from doing that. It may be considerable time you're back there.

    At higher speeds its enough of a struggle to keep your head out of your own bow wave so you can breathe. Its very draining even if you don't have to hold the rope.

    Hand over handing up the line is probably a better option than waiting for the boat to stop, if you're strong enough to do it... Tying off when you need a rest is a good idea though, but I'd still suggest you want to execute the progress as fast as possible. (Drag is much less very close to the stern so you could get a REAL rest there before facing the big climb into the boat.

  2. #32
    Senior Member Rat's Avatar
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    I agree, a lot can be said about trailing ropes, and has been said on sailing forums.

    I was just trying to illustrate the use of two very different knots under similar (on the surface) circumstances.

    Besides, if I am on anything bigger than my Hobicat 16 I use a safety harness and lanyard. I too have been on the end of a trailing rope, once; and hopefully never again.
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  3. #33
    Senior Member Iafte's Avatar
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    I picked up these laminated knot tying sheets from Bass pro shops. They are mostly for fishing so I can teach my sons, I think I'll pull them out and see what knots they have on them. I'm slowly working them into being able to do everything themselves when we go hiking, They are able to hang their hammocks with no help now. Now to get their mother to stop packing a cooler with food or a large gym bag of cloths when we go.

    BTW, great info here.

  4. #34
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    Quote Originally Posted by GrizzlyAdams View Post
    Tonight I observed that with 2.8mm Spyderline, the rolling hitch doesn't hold under body weight tension. That's a pity. It would be nice to be able to leave a sliding adjustment knot in place, and save the weight of rings/buckles/carbiners.

    Grizz

    i found a friction knot that works. it even gripped uncovered vectran, which is just as slippery as uncovered spectra. i also used same sized lines for the friction knot and the line that gets "wrapped" even though they say to use a smaller dia. for the friction knot.

    i believe the knot is called the autoblock. i'll check and make sure and post a link if i can find one. it's basically a prissic equivalent.

    it did slip an inch or so while it tightened up upon weighting, but stops once fully tightened, then you have to manually loosen it (not that bad) to get it to slide again.

  5. #35
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    ok, the knot that i tied was a variation of the klemheist, that i could not find. several sites said the klemheist and the autoblock are interchangeable terms, except one site that said the autoblock requires a biner. this is not true.

    the klemheist did not seem to work very well, so i'll explain the variation that did.

    most diagrams show all the friction knots being tied with a loop of line. instead, i used a single strand with a loop tied in each end.

    the klemheist starts at the top, wraps downward and then then threads through the top loop.

    i started at the bottom, wrapped up (7-10? times), then wrapped back downward on top of the upward wraps. when you get back to the bottom insert the end loop through the starting loop.

    it seems to hold without slipping after the knot becomes tight.

  6. #36
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    I guess so!!!

    Most of those sorts of knots say that for more gripping power add more turns... Seems you really did. And then top wrapping back over them should make it essentially self locking.
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  7. #37
    If you're having trouble untying a bowline, you're not tying a bowline, it is the king because it's so secure [ though with modern ropes, a half hitch is a good idea] and easily untied. If your tautline slips just add another turn to the end. Better yet learn to tie the blake hitch, a much better knot.

  8. #38
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    Quote Originally Posted by Rapt View Post
    I guess so!!!

    Most of those sorts of knots say that for more gripping power add more turns... Seems you really did. And then top wrapping back over them should make it essentially self locking.
    yeah, i'm not switching to it or anything, but it did hold, with two same sized pieces of slippery cord too!

  9. #39
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    Quote Originally Posted by Iafte View Post
    I picked up these laminated knot tying sheets from Bass pro shops. They are mostly for fishing so I can teach my sons, I think I'll pull them out and see what knots they have on them. I'm slowly working them into being able to do everything themselves when we go hiking, They are able to hang their hammocks with no help now. Now to get their mother to stop packing a cooler with food or a large gym bag of cloths when we go.

    BTW, great info here.

    yes, i've never had trouble untying a bowline either, i've also never had one slip, you could always just use a yosimite backup or tie a double bowline or both, but i find the non backup single very reliable.

  10. #40
    Senior Member Javaman's Avatar
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    Another option from the Climbing or Search and Rescue world is the Garda Hitch on two carabiners. The carabiners are reversed, and the garda hitch is used to provide mechanical advantage for tightening the hammock. In my experience the Garda Hitch is simple to tie, doesn't slip and is easy to undo. I think Grog Knots or whatever the animated knot site is called shows the garda hitch in action with carabiners. I use the garda hitch with rings instead of 'biners but a couple of lightweight 'biners wouldn't result in toom much extra weight.

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