OverCover Question

**warbonnetguy** · 10-09-2007, 19:26

Originally Posted by Cannibal

Please help enable my addiction.

that's halarious, i have also been addicted addicted to making gear, still am, but i recently realized that know i'm addicted to the hf as well, and there's so much traffic, it takes a lot of time to keep current.

me and my fiancee were just talking about my new addiction last night. she wanted me to ask if there was a support group for addicts.

but then i told her that's what the hf is.

**Cannibal** · 10-09-2007, 19:34

Originally Posted by warbonnetguy

she wanted me to ask if there was a support group for addicts.

but then i told her that's what the hf is.

Thank goodness; otherwise I'd be weird all by myself.

**hangnout** · 10-09-2007, 20:09

HC4U and anyone else who has used an overcover. How often do you use it and how effective is it?

**headchange4u** · 10-09-2007, 21:58

I only used mine in cold temps, maybe 30* and below and it also makes a nice wind barrier. Works basically like a travel pod. It works really well at warming up the inside of the hammock, but in warm temps it can turn the inside into a sauna. I never had any condensation when using mine, and that's why I would suggest using untreated fabric for breathability.

**ZDP-189** · 10-10-2007, 03:01

I believe the sock I saw has a "breathing hole" cut into the fabric to reduce condensation. This only makes sense if the purpose is to be an impermeable weather cover. If the purpose is to cut down on the wind blowing through the hammock, why not rig the cover inside the mesh? I would ideally attach it to the inside of the rim seam and over the ridge line, with maybe press-studs, lacing, or Velcro.

The other main differences to the sock design are: (1) I would have a top shell and not a bottom half of a shell and (2) instead of a breathing hole, I would put a hole in it 1/2 way to 2/3 the way along. I have a split ridge line, so I could thread the ridge line through the hole, and drape it down so that my body remains in the warm sealed cocoon, but my head sticks out with the excess fabric draped onto my shoulders and neck. This is the same principle as a good quality sleeping bag which can be drawn up around the shoulders so that the main section stays dry inside. If the weather is really foul and I need all the weather protection I can get, I can always rig the shell along the whole length of the ridge line. This should be comfortable, because the material that I plan to use is soft, breathable and very light - 30D polyester rip-stop. It will shed breezes and light spray. A sufficient quantity would roll into wallet-sized package and weighs only an ounce or two.

This system has the following advantages over a sock:

It is lighter and smaller
It avoids the condensation problems
It is easy to adjust from the inside to increase or decrease the protection offered
It can be rigged on one side only to act as a lean-to shelter/ wind break
It costs nearly nothing

The disadvantages are:

It doesn't provide total protection from rain (that's what the tarp is for)
It requires mild modification or retrofit to the hammock

I haven't made this myself yet but it should only take an evening. I have already used my poncho like this, rigged inside the mesh over the ridge line and draped around the sides. It blocked the strong breeze well, but the fabric it isn't breathable.

I have also had some success with using my poncho as an tent wall/ rain-fly extension. I have added six 1" polyester webbing loops to the rim of my rain-fly and along with the end attachment points, I can attach the poncho however I want it, usually with the top long edge horizontal on the fly and the bottom long edge pegged to the ground. This blocks sideways blowing wind and rain.

**GrizzlyAdams** · 10-10-2007, 08:53

I don't understand "inside the mesh", unless you mean inside a built-in bugnet. That it? I do have the general idea of a lightweight top-cover though.

But I'm wondering about this lightweight material that is inexpensive AND cuts the wind. Something as lightweight as a shirt, well I can feel wind through it. Unless it is the kind of high-end fabric that is used in lightweight wind-shirts. That would be quite nice, but quite expensive, supposing even that the fabric could be found. Ideas?

thanks
Grizz

**Cannibal** · 10-10-2007, 09:12

Plus, my Warbonnet has no ridgeline. It would be a major PITA to try to deal with it on the inside. It would be pretty easy in my HH, but I don't think it would work on the WB.

Why fix if it ain't broke? HH's concept is pretty simple and shouldn't be difficult to recreate. I'll give it a go this weekend or next week. Anything to add just a few more degrees of warm.

HC4U, why not use the Tyvex for the overcover (topcover)? Seems like that would trap the heat fairly well and be a great windblock. Just have to be sure to keep the opening open to deal with condensation.

**Rapt** · 10-10-2007, 09:20

Should also note that while not HIGHLY breathable, Tyvek is still breathable, so it will pass some moisture through it.

The biggest issue with most fabrics like Tyvek and other waterproof breathables (Goretex etc) that rely on vapour for transfer, is condensation of the vapour on the inside of the fabric when the fabric is at the cold interface or actually creates it.

I keep wanting to use Tyvek for something, but the colour keeps putting me off, or where it wouldn't be an issue, there are other more suitable choices.

How can I justify buying a roll if I can't find a bunch of uses??? C'mon help a guy out!!!

**NCPatrick** · 10-10-2007, 09:29

Hey, if Tyvek is breathable, then think about DWR ripstop for an overcover. It is a lot more breathable than tyvek, and has lots of uses also...

**Rapt** · 10-10-2007, 09:35

True enough... Sadly DWR ripstop isn't an off the shelf item in my area..... I'd need to splurge on some "expensive" stuff from a mail order source or treat my own plain ripstop...