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  1. #21
    Senior Member gargoyle's Avatar
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    CK1, If you were to hang a 9 foot hammock from a 7 foot span, you'd end up with a chair, or a very compacted hammock. You'll need to spread the hang points a few feet. If not your hammock will be at a severely exaggerated V. Not comfortable in my opinion.

    Pedro makes another valid point, (he usually does) if you strung a spreader bar, then it would open up the hammock, and allow for a more comfortable lay in the hammock.

    But the geometry or physics is all wrong going straight down from 7 feet. You can test this theory by placing a small nail into the points you feel are going to work and test hang an empty hammock (perhaps place a pillow to simulate your body weight).
    Ambulo tua ambulo.

  2. #22
    Senior Member coolkayaker1's Avatar
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    Ah, I see that now, Garg and Pedro. Thinking over here about a system that would very simply anchor it out without a compression bar; I think there are many who would not necessarily have a 22 foot unobstructed spread distance in a basement, and especially in a room.

    Hmmm.

    Idea (and I'm not a quant so I have no perception of if this would work or not): what if, looking at the hammock from a side view, with straps 7 feet apart coming down from ceiling, the right hand strap came down to the LEFT hand end of the hammock, through the gather (i.e. through an SMS ring or carabiner), then straight across (like a ridge line--a bonus!) and finally attached to the RIGHT hand gathered end 'biner (i.e. back under the ceiling point where it began). Then do the same for the other end, effectively creating an "x" plus two parallel ridge lines above the hammock.

    Discuss.
    Last edited by coolkayaker1; 08-10-2010 at 02:30.

  3. #23
    Senior Member pedro's Avatar
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    You're on the wrong track. I don't mean to be rude, but sometimes it just has to be said. If you want to try things like this, do it with kite string or something, make a model. If you want to hang a hammock on short centers from a tall ceiling, may I suggest a stepladder? I'm serious. Bunkbeds and college dorm lofts have been used with ladders for years.
    "Interesting! No, wait, the other thing.....tedious!"- Bender Bending Rodriques

  4. #24
    Senior Member gargoyle's Avatar
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    CK1, Probably not..

    Without something solid, the suspension would sway towards center. If you could mount to the ceiling, have an attachment point to the hammock, then turn 90 degrees away from the hammock and mount another solid point to the walls, then it might work.

    But if you can attach to the wall, just go that route.
    Ambulo tua ambulo.

  5. #25
    Senior Member Kasuko's Avatar
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    I agree, CK1 what you are saying works mentally but when you put it to the real test physics starts to apply, but this has sparked an interesting idea in myself for reducing the load of a hammock 1/2 between the floor and the ceiling.

    Now this solution won't be for everyone as it requires modifications to the floor, but run with me here.

    If you have a 9' ridge line hammock and you have support 9' apart on the ceiling then under "ideal" conditions the supports would be vertical but you need some way to counteract the lateral forces of the compression.

    As stated a rigid bar along the ridge line would work, but what if you instead "stake" out to the floor. It would be a lot closer to the hammock since you would be closer to the floor so it wouldn't require 22' also I think instead of "staking" it to the floor you "pulley" it to the floor and run it vertically to the ceiling. Thus causing the effective compression forces to be applied 1/2 to the floor and 1/2 to the ceiling and essentially converting it to pure vertical forces on the ceiling.

    Refer to the following picture:


    Red support would hold the forces of gravity (aka your weight) and that would be split by the 2 tie outs so each would have to hold 1/2 your weight.

    Blue would be the compression support and would provide cosX lateral forces on the floor support and 1/cosX support vertical. At a 45* angle that equals 70% force is horizontal but at 60* angle (closer to hammock) the force is 60% horizontal. Meaning as the floor support gets closer to the hammock the more the compression forces are converted to vertical forces. Also due to the pulley in place the vertical forces should be divided by 2.

    This type of support, if it works would work well in an area where the hammock spans almost the entire length of the room so the floor supports would be close to the hammock and also close to the wall (for entirely aesthetic reasons)

    Flaws anyone? (I'm sure there are plenty)

    Kasuko

    * X is the angle between the floor and the blue support line
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  6. #26
    Senior Member oldgringo's Avatar
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    You guys are making my head hurt.

    My colleague with the pocket protector, aka: pedro, speaks the truth.
    Dave

    "Loneliness is the poverty of self; solitude is the richness of self."~~~May Sarton

  7. #27
    Senior Member Bubba's Avatar
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    Lets say the end of the hammock is at about 4 feet from the ground (leaving a chair height sag), for a 30 degree angle to a 7.5 foot high joist, you would have to go around 5 and half feet out from both ends of the hammock. So lets say your hammock ridgeline (or the distance from end to end when hammock is hanging) is 8 feet, then you are looking at a 19 foot distance between the joist attachment points. It could be less if you have your hammock higher off the ground and you have more sag in your hammock.
    Last edited by Bubba; 08-10-2010 at 12:14.

  8. #28
    Senior Member NCPatrick's Avatar
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    Sounds more complicated (although it's fun to follow) than it needs to be. Hang and enjoy!


    "Civilization is the limitless multiplication of unnecessary necessities."
    - Mark Twain
    “I go to nature to be soothed and healed, and to have my senses put in order.”
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  9. #29
    Senior Member Kasuko's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by NCPatrick View Post
    Sounds more complicated (although it's fun to follow) than it needs to be. Hang and enjoy!
    It is just as complicated as it is hanging out in the woods with 1 minor change. We can change distance but not height.

    In the woods when you find two trees you adjust the height you hang from the trees to reflect the fixed distance the trees are apart by.

    In the house hanging from the roof we have a fixed height and as such have to adjust the distance.

    Now the real issue is if you hang "wrong" in your house then you are left with holes in the ceiling which is why people want to get it right the first time versus in the woods where you just readjust.
    I like metric, I use metric, for those of you who don't ... you should, for those of you who won't ... here.
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  10. #30
    Senior Member NCPatrick's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Kasuko View Post

    Now the real issue is if you hang "wrong" in your house then you are left with holes in the ceiling which is why people want to get it right the first time versus in the woods where you just readjust.
    I agree completely. One wouldn't want to hang wrong in the house, due to the real possibility of damaging it. If you "keep it simple", it's hard to go far wrong.


    "Civilization is the limitless multiplication of unnecessary necessities."
    - Mark Twain
    “I go to nature to be soothed and healed, and to have my senses put in order.”
    - John Burroughs

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