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  1. #21
    Senior Member GREEN THERAPY's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by kohburn View Post
    anybody tried attaching zippers to the outside of the hammock skin so you can just zip a sleepingbag onto the outside?
    Thats what I love about this forum... New idea's, new avenues to explore. I have zippered on a bug screen and the stretch factor hasn't been problematic so far ( five months of continuos testing ) I have been using velcro to attach various things and my love affair with it is at the ragged edge. Zippers can be bought relatively cheap at most Upholstery shops and they have a good selection of sizes. Cut the length you need off a roll, buy the pull and learn to sew them on. Does everything have to have a steep learning curve ?

    The weight factor can be offset by lighter packs. But thats a whole different subject and not part of this forum often.
    What I lack in knowledge I MORE than make up for with opinions.
    Green Therapy

  2. #22
    Senior Member stoikurt's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Peter_pan View Post
    Grizz,

    The black is the same DWR material so you can reverse it, as long as you are not using a HH Asym model (this would place the side loops in the wrong locations).

    Pan
    Are there any reasons why we couldn't sew a couple more gross grain loops onto the UQ to make it fully reversible for an HH?
    Stoikurt
    "Work to Live...Don't Live to Work!"

  3. #23
    Senior Member GrizzlyAdams's Avatar
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    reversible JRB quilt

    Quote Originally Posted by stoikurt View Post
    Are there any reasons why we couldn't sew a couple more gross grain loops onto the UQ to make it fully reversible for an HH?
    I'm not seeing any reasons. It feels like there's a length of gross grain tape along the edge (inside the fabric). It is 1/2" or more wide (working from memory), enough to sew extra loops onto it, oriented 90 degrees to the edge. After all these loops don't come under a lot of stress.

    Grizz

  4. #24
    Senior Member gunn parker's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by NCPatrick View Post
    What are the dimensions you will cut it to?

    I'm making a synthetic top quilt/underquilt (rectangle) and I was thinking 72" x 46" might work.
    My quilt is 78" x 59", I am 70" long so I guess I don't need it to be 78" long.
    so maybe I'll cut it 70" x 50" maybe?
    It would be nice to have it as small as possible to get the pack size and carry weight down too.

    maybe I could get away with 64" x your 46" but once I cut it, that's it so I gotta get it right
    Rivers know this: there is no hurry. We shall get there some day.
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  5. #25
    slowhike's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by gunn parker View Post
    My quilt is 78" x 59", I am 70" long so I guess I don't need it to be 78" long.
    so maybe I'll cut it 70" x 50" maybe?
    It would be nice to have it as small as possible to get the pack size and carry weight down too.

    maybe I could get away with 64" x your 46" but once I cut it, that's it so I gotta get it right
    if you could get someone to lay in your hammock while you clip the quilt to the edges using clothes pins or something like that, you could make a much more realistic judgement on the width before you cut & hem it.
    I too will something make and joy in it's making

  6. #26
    Senior Member gunn parker's Avatar
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    Your probably right, I'll have to get the wife to lay around in it for a while. I used her when I designed my (unfinished) bug net
    Rivers know this: there is no hurry. We shall get there some day.
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  7. #27
    Senior Member kohburn's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by GREEN THERAPY View Post
    The weight factor can be offset by lighter packs. But thats a whole different subject and not part of this forum often.
    I'm usually more concerned with pack size than ounces. doesn't matter how light it is if i keep bumping into trees. I've got a 30* bag that is 4"x7" in its compression sack. zipped open it is the right length and width to attach diagonally and protect my entire sleeping area. If i can use that for the under quilt and a second one to sleep inside of then i can forgo the sleeping pad entirely and have two sleeping bags with a total size of 4x14 (smaller than one rolled up camp pad)

    however i did consider that the sleeping bag is not water proof and most likely would lose heat to wind so it may be better to use an underfly to atleast protect it from wind and water. or perhaps just add a water/windproof skin to the bag in which case it could be used as a bivy sack in a pinch.

    the greatest weight savings comes from dual purpose items that let you leave one other item at home.

  8. #28
    Peter_pan's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by stoikurt View Post
    Are there any reasons why we couldn't sew a couple more gross grain loops onto the UQ to make it fully reversible for an HH?
    No reason..... just adds some very minor weight.....Of course if you mess it up and ask us to fix it, it will be outside of the warranty.

    Pan
    Ounces to Grams.

    www.jacksrbetter.com ... Largest supplier of camping quilts and under quilts...Home of the Original Nest Under Quilt, and Bear Mountain Bridge Hammock. 800 595 0413

  9. #29
    Senior Member NCPatrick's Avatar
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    Seems pretty far-fetched to me to mess up sewing on grosgrain, but okay <shrug>... what is the concern with adding loops to the quilt? (ie. how could it mess it up?)


    "Civilization is the limitless multiplication of unnecessary necessities."
    - Mark Twain
    “I go to nature to be soothed and healed, and to have my senses put in order.”
    - John Burroughs

  10. #30
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    I think he was just covering his "liability" so to speak...

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