Whoopie Sling needle

**Lonely Raven** · 08-16-2010, 09:35

Originally Posted by WV

If I understand you correctly, you may be using too short a taper. I pull out two strands about 2" from the end and cut them off as close to the main rope as possible. Then I pull two more strands about 1.5" from the end and cut them off. Then I poke the splicing tool of choice backwards through the eventual bury and grab the tapered end about .75" from the end. That way the small ends of the taper fold back, but don't reach the point where the first strands were cut off, and the doubled portion you pull through is the same diameter or smaller than the main rope. It also helps to enlarge the hole where the splicing tool exits the bury by pushing the rope together to loosen the braid and then pulling it against the splicing tool in both directions to make the exit hole larger. (Do this before you grab the tapered end.) When you pull it through, grab the bury and milk it back over the tapered end.

This is the fail-safe method. In practice I often use a shorter taper, but do it this way first. Once you get the hang of it you'll adjust to suit yourself. Good luck!

Awesome description. I had to figure this out myself the hard way as I didn't get all the details in the various videos and guides I saw online. But your description nails all the key points. Good stuff!

**nacra533** · 08-16-2010, 10:42

A small "splicing needle", which is different than a fid works on line down to 1/8, but I grind it down and round the corners a little.

A 3/16 (or 4mm??) swedish fid (tubular) also works great down to 1/8 and is my tool of choice.

Annapolis Performance Sailing carries both of these items for around $10.

For 7/64, I use the round nose needle that comes in a pack of upholstery needles from walmart. The pack is a buck or two and has several curved needles, a couple sailmaker needles, and the round nose one. All of the needles are really POS, except for that one. I also use it for fishing small line into stuff sacks, fishing the whipping line through the channel for a WBBB style whipping. I haven't used a dritz doll needle, but I assume it works as well.

**Lonely Raven** · 08-16-2010, 10:48

I completed my first soft shackle last night, I used the dritz ring puller thing (forgot the name), made things so much easier. I didn't even need to taper my line it worked so well, though tapering would probably have made it go much faster in the bury.

**nacra533** · 08-16-2010, 11:00

Originally Posted by Lonely Raven

... I didn't even need to taper my line it worked so well, though tapering would probably have made it go much faster in the bury.

For the loop shackle, the taper doesn't matter.

But for a buried splice, the taper is an integral part of it. If you don't taper it, the stress concentrates at the point of reduction in diameter where the bury ends. The splice will have a significantly reduced breaking strength.

**Lonely Raven** · 08-16-2010, 13:35

Originally Posted by nacra533

For the loop shackle, the taper doesn't matter.

But for a buried splice, the taper is an integral part of it. If you don't taper it, the stress concentrates at the point of reduction in diameter where the bury ends. The splice will have a significantly reduced breaking strength.

Awesome info, and does really make sense. Thanks!