DIW "WarBird" WBB style hammock

**BodhiKnight** · 04-10-2011, 17:05

http://www.duroindustries.com/index....on-fr-finished

**Jazilla** · 04-12-2011, 07:26

IMG_9222.jpg
Just pre-finished my 2nd DIY hammock. This is my first double layer. This was a test hang last night after making some adjustments i found needed to be worked out. Now it time to slap on some bug netting and tieouts then give it away...

**Meteor** · 05-01-2011, 20:04

Originally Posted by Jazilla

BlackGoat, I tried using the dimensions you give for the foot box shelf in your blog and I think I am missing something. The foot box you show as two sides being 24''. Is that from corner to corner not counting the 6 1/2'' piece. I also made the 6 1/2'' piece longer than 6''. I Took the hammock length and subtracted the lengths of everything but the 6'' piece and then supplemented that number for the 6''s making the attach side the same length as the hammock. I am going to give it another look as it was late last night and I didn't want to fix/rip seams.

This is my first time adding a shelf.

A few questions:

- 1022's instructions show using a 10 foot hammock body, but BlackGoat's shows using 11 feet. Which is best to use in your experience? (I have cut an 11' hammock body so far.) Who's triangle measurements work best?

- In BlackGoat's instructions, is the measurement of 24 inches on the side of the triangle toward the head end from the bottom all the way to the top of the triangle (i.e. the triangle is a right triangle, or is it 24 inches to the bottom corner of the 6 inch piece (i.e. the triangle is obtuse)?

- Where should you start sewing the footbox triangle to the hammock body? Do you whip and then start attaching the footbox triangle (the corner toward the foot end) from just past the whipping? Or, is there a specific number of inches from the end of the foot of the hammock body that works best?

**Jazilla** · 05-02-2011, 08:55

I ended up making my foot box bigger than blackgoats instructions (my preference). I also had to add material to the connecting point of the footbox and the shelf. I took my ridgeline length minus the footbox and shelf lengths (the edge that will be sewn to the hammock) and I used that length of the neck and it came out great. Also I tried the bugnet design and it didn't work really well for me. Ended up having to toss that one aside and pin on new and cut and use that. (Just the way I did my last one)

**Meteor** · 05-02-2011, 09:04

Thanks Jazilla - I think I may try sewing in the triangle first, only sewing up the head end side to about 6 inches from the top of the triangle, and then overlapping the triangle with a large rectangle of fabric from which I can cut out the shelf - kind of like Myles to go did.

Good to hear about your experience with the bugnet - I was planning to do the pin and sew method. What I'm learning here is that the instructions that have been posted are guidelines but it's not required they be followed exactly - there's still room for experimentation.

**Jazilla** · 05-02-2011, 09:11

There is always room for experimentation. I never follow a pattern of anything too close.

With the bugnet, I used big safety pins to hold grosgrain loops where my tie out points would go. After pinning I removed the loops, sewed everything up then added my tie out points at the location I had my temporary loops pinned.

**Meteor** · 05-02-2011, 14:38

I'm making a double 1.1 hammock body. The fabric for the footbox and shelf is 1.0 (from sclittlefield). I'm thinking of going double on both the footbox and the shelf as well for added strength. Is that wise or overkill? Any thoughts?

**Jazilla** · 05-03-2011, 11:51

IMO its over kill. You do the Double layer 1.1 for the strength in fabric to hold up to 200 lbs or so or to inset a pad or both. No real need to double the footbox or the shelf unless your gonna lay in on the shelf.

**samjaynes** · 05-03-2011, 22:31

Originally Posted by Meteor

I'm making a double 1.1 hammock body. The fabric for the footbox and shelf is 1.0 (from sclittlefield). I'm thinking of going double on both the footbox and the shelf as well for added strength. Is that wise or overkill? Any thoughts?

Overkill, and very hard to pull the seams together with all the angles, and transitions to the shelf. KISS - Keep it simple

**Jazilla** · 05-04-2011, 07:39

Samjaynes is completely right. I went all complicated trying to make Blackgoats pattern work for me and it turned into my night mare. I don't do patterns (drives my mother-in-law crazy cause that is all she works off of). I usually make a sketch I can follow and roll with it. Blackgoats write up is awesome. he put a lot of work into making it as anyone can tell by reading it. Best advice I can give is to measure twice and cut once.