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  1. #161
    Senior Member GvilleDave's Avatar
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    +1 on losing the triangles. I made mine at the start w/ triangles then when test hanging I quickly realized they were not needed on my hammock for a good seal and actually made things worse for me. I just have the UQ bungies looped over the gathered ball at each end of the hammock and that works good for me.

  2. #162
    Senior Member BodhiKnight's Avatar
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    Works much better without triangle thingies. Tinkering a bit more for a warmer fetal position. Thanks for the help.

  3. #163
    Senior Member SpaceCadet's Avatar
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    Sorry if this question has been asked, this is a long thread and I didn't' read EVERY post.

    For the shell, does it need to be breathable? Would it be ok for me to use coated ripstop? Does it matter at all?
    If you don't try due to fear of failure you've already failed due to fear.

  4. #164
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    Since were on the topic of questions that may already be asked. Any Hennessy sleepers how do you fit it for the asym lay? I'm a little confuzzled and this would be my first large project DIY...

  5. #165
    Senior Member sclittlefield's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by SpaceCadet View Post
    Sorry if this question has been asked, this is a long thread and I didn't' read EVERY post.

    For the shell, does it need to be breathable? Would it be ok for me to use coated ripstop? Does it matter at all?
    Yes or no. Insultex is breathable, but only very slightly. If you use non-breathable shell material, I'd recommend you do either a non-breathable layer against the hammock and breathable away from the hammock, or non-breathable on both sides.

    In most circumstances, it's not advisable to do breathable against hammock and non-breathable on the other side. Body moisture gets into the insulation but cannot escape out the other side. Insultex is more forgiving in this area though - because it doesn't trap moisture the way down or climashield does - it's more hydrophobic.

    Quote Originally Posted by Astrolope View Post
    Since were on the topic of questions that may already be asked. Any Hennessy sleepers how do you fit it for the asym lay? I'm a little confuzzled and this would be my first large project DIY...
    I sleep asymmetrically in my hammock with this underquilt w/o problems. If you want, what would be useful would be to make loops at the edge corresponding to your tie-outs, and run the tie-out through the loop. That would keep the underquilt in place very well.
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  6. #166
    Senior Member lustreking's Avatar
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    I have two questions about making one of these.

    I think that I'd like to make a two layer version, so it's less bulky in warmer weather. Can I just make it with the bottom and middle layer, and then make the top layer separate and just place it on top of the other two when more warmth is needed? Or should I have some kind of buttons, or velcro to attach them to maintain the spacing?

    I'm also planning on just putting the shell material on the outside. Would there be any issues with tacking the shell nylon to the bottom IX layer, and then doing the pleating as one whole piece?

  7. #167
    Senior Member lustreking's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by lustreking View Post
    I have two questions about making one of these.
    I'm also planning on just putting the shell material on the outside. Would there be any issues with tacking the shell nylon to the bottom IX layer, and then doing the pleating as one whole piece?
    I decided to go for it, and this method turned out great.


    Quote Originally Posted by lustreking View Post
    I think that I'd like to make a two layer version, so it's less bulky in warmer weather. Can I just make it with the bottom and middle layer, and then make the top layer separate and just place it on top of the other two when more warmth is needed? Or should I have some kind of buttons, or velcro to attach them to maintain the spacing?
    I decided make a two layer with the optional top layer, and put grosgrain tabs on the corners like the Molly Mac IX underquilts appear to have. When I want both layers, I'll just clip them together with the really tiny (#0?) s-biners, and attach the suspension lines to those.

    My question: On the two layer version, I rolled the nylon cover over the top side to cover the edges of the insultex (as well as to create a drawstring channel). On the top layer, I didn't think ahead far enough to make this layer a little larger to allow for a rolled hem. What should I do to finish the edges of the top layer? I was thinking maybe bias tape, that should be pretty light weight, right?
    Last edited by lustreking; 05-02-2011 at 08:21.

  8. #168
    Senior Member sclittlefield's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by lustreking View Post
    My question: On the two layer version, I rolled the nylon cover over the top side to cover the edges of the insultex (as well as to create a drawstring channel). On the top layer, I didn't think ahead far enough to make this layer a little larger to allow for a rolled hem. What should I do to finish the edges of the top layer? I was thinking maybe bias tape, that should be pretty light weight, right?
    Yeah, bias tape would be light, and work well. You can make your own if you want, with some scrap ripstop. Just cut 2" (or whatever width seems right) strips at an angle (the bias), and sew the strips together for a long length of bias tape. Pre-made is less of a hassle, but it's not terribly hard to make your own. You can get bias tape makers (they help make the double fold part really easy) on Ebay for cheap.

    In fact, you don't even need it to be bias tape. You can just cut straight strips of your scrap ripstop shell material and do the same thing. Bias tape is helpful on things with major curves. On something like this, it's not necessary that it be cut on the bias.
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  9. #169
    Senior Member lustreking's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by sclittlefield View Post
    Yeah, bias tape would be light, and work well. You can make your own if you want, with some scrap ripstop. Just cut 2" (or whatever width seems right) strips at an angle (the bias), and sew the strips together for a long length of bias tape. Pre-made is less of a hassle, but it's not terribly hard to make your own. You can get bias tape makers (they help make the double fold part really easy) on Ebay for cheap.

    In fact, you don't even need it to be bias tape. You can just cut straight strips of your scrap ripstop shell material and do the same thing. Bias tape is helpful on things with major curves. On something like this, it's not necessary that it be cut on the bias.
    Yeah, I was thinking about using the bias tape because it was already folded, however, the bias tape at JoAnn's was 40% cotton, so I decided against it. I bought a roll of 7/8" polyester ribbon. I'll try folding that in half and pressing it before I sew it on.

    Thanks for the plans! I can't wait to try it out the weekend.

  10. #170
    New Member
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    Great read, but I am wondering would this be warmer than a DIY sleeping bag UQ??? I'm still a noob, and I'm trying to decide which way to go. Thks.

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