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  1. #41
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    [QUOTE=sclittlefield;342959]
    In my opinion, IX is both overhyped (read the advertized "one layer Insultex protects a person to -13F. I question that.)

    If that were the case they'd be able to put the Aerogel makers out of business and we'd all be lining our walls with the mess.

    So it sounds like I can potentially swap out my blue foam pad for a rolled up IX underpad for very close to the same weight, maybe a few ounces more, and gain quite a bit in cold comfort.

    And for a lot less money and hassle than sewing up a DIY down UQ.
    Interesting.

  2. #42
    MacEntyre's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Gqgeek81 View Post
    If that were the case ...we'd all be lining our walls with the mess.
    Insultex has been approved for use as housewrap, like Tyvek but insulating.

    Quote Originally Posted by Gqgeek81 View Post
    So it sounds like I can potentially swap out my blue foam pad for a rolled up IX underpad for very close to the same weight, maybe a few ounces more, and gain quite a bit in cold comfort.
    They are apples and oranges... IX weighs significantly less than blue foam, but you can lay on foam pads, unlike IX. A blue foam pad is a far superior insulator.

    Quote Originally Posted by Gqgeek81 View Post
    And for a lot less money and hassle than sewing up a DIY down UQ.
    Just so! IX is PE foam fabric. It won't gather quite as well as we would like, but you can get around that using darts.
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  3. #43
    Senior Member sclittlefield's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by MacEntyre View Post
    They are apples and oranges... IX weighs significantly less than blue foam, but you can lay on foam pads, unlike IX. A blue foam pad is a far superior insulator.
    Quote Originally Posted by Gqgeek81 View Post
    And for a lot less money and hassle than sewing up a DIY down UQ.
    IX and Down are also apples and oranges. I have not found the warmth to weight equation to be as good with IX as it is with Down. And down squishes so much nicer in my pack.

    That said, on a lower budget, or as a quilt temp booster, or even for synthetic-over-down fans, it gets two thumbs up in my book.
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  4. #44
    Senior Member Roadrunnr72's Avatar
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    New to the Thread Injector, but you can sew threw 3 layers of IX, with a standard machine? Nothing special about it?

  5. #45
    Senior Member sclittlefield's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Roadrunnr72 View Post
    New to the Thread Injector, but you can sew threw 3 layers of IX, with a standard machine? Nothing special about it?
    Nope, nothing special to it. Easy as pie. Just use lots of pins to keep the layers in sync.
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  6. #46
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    So if I have a synthetic diy UQ and want to whip up one of these to use as a supplement when it gets real cold, do I want it sized to go over my UQ, or for this to go against the hammock, and the UQ below that? Scott, you seem to suggest that over is better, Mac seems to suggest under (or at least suggests that it works well, not necessarily that it's 'better').

    Under would be easier to size, since I wouldn't have to do much about making sure it doesn't pinch my quilt, so no extra planning or calculations needed.

  7. #47
    Senior Member sclittlefield's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by silentorpheus View Post
    So if I have a synthetic diy UQ and want to whip up one of these to use as a supplement when it gets real cold, do I want it sized to go over my UQ, or for this to go against the hammock, and the UQ below that? Scott, you seem to suggest that over is better, Mac seems to suggest under (or at least suggests that it works well, not necessarily that it's 'better').
    I'm not truly convinced that either way is better. So long as you're not squishing the insulation of either system, I'm half ready to guess that it'd be 6 in one and half a dozen the other. I definitely wouldn't write off either method.
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  8. #48
    Senior Member scum's Avatar
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    Sewing the Differential Cut

    I've got my IX & plan to start on this soon. I have a question about the differential cut. When it comes time to sew them together, on any given edge I'll have 3 different lengths to line up. How do you sew these together? At some point is there some 'bunching' that happens on the longer length so that the corners can all line up? Maybe a bit of stretching on the inner layer - or both? Seems like bunching would kind of defeat the point. Do you just center the layers and not try to line up the corners?

    I'm sure I must be over thinking this since everything I've looked up says its simple to sew up but I'm not finding much for sewing instructions to help me visualize this.

    Also, since I'm already over thinking things, shouldn't the inner liner be cut slightly smaller as well in order to prevent the innermost insultex from getting compressed? And finally, any benefit to adding some darts along the long edge similar to the Baby Orca?

    Thanks again!

  9. #49
    Senior Member Rat's Avatar
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    Scum, I think all of your questions were answered in the original post. Here it is for posterity.

    Quote Originally Posted by sclittlefield View Post
    Here is a quick and easy pattern to build your own a 3-Layer Insultex Underquilt. I wish I had dejoha's illustration skills, but I don't. You'll have to settle for this.

    Insultex (IX) requires that the layers not be "squished", but rather hang loosely. The small gap between layers (and it can be very very small and work effectively) minimizes the heat transfer, allowing the Insultex to perform at it's best. The differential cuts on this quilt design force those gaps, so no matter how tight you pull the quilt up under you, the layers will not compress.

    I have put this together as an average size - modify to your needs, longer or shorter, increase or decrease the width. The picture is a general guideline, but I have found this particular design to fit very well under a hammock and work effectively.

    Attachment 14902

    Materials:
    4yds Insultex
    3yds Shell material (unnecessary, but I prefer 1.1oz ripstop to add durability)
    20ft 1.5" Gross Grain (channels)
    24ft 1/8" shock cord (suspension)
    3 cordlocks (suspension adjustment)

    Attachment 14903

    Directions:
    1. Cut out the (3) raw sized panels of Insultex, as seen in the drawing.

    2. Mark your V-cut-outs (aka-pleats). A sharpie works well.

    3. For each V-pleat, fold in half the long way, and sew your lines together (you can cut the flap out or leave it, doesn't matter much either way). When you're done, all three layer pieces will have equal lengths and widths - 42" wide and 60" long - by these specs offered.

    4. Shell Material Sub-Directions: Shell material is useful for adding durability to the Insultex, but it also adds weight. One good option is to add shell material only to the outside, as the inside will be against your hammock and be protected.
    --4.a. Cut and sew to the same pattern as the corresponding IX layer.
    --4.b. Fold V-pleat over after sewing and sew flat to fabric (similar look to a flat felled seam).
    --4.c. When sandwiching layers together, be sure the proper side of your shell piece will be facing out.

    5. Sandwich all layers together in order. Use lots of pins here, as the differentially sized layers will fight each other.
    --Bottom Shell--
    --Bottom IX--
    --Middle IX--
    --Top IX--
    --Top Shell--

    6. Sew the perimeter of your quilt, approx. 1/2-5/8" in from the edge. If you sew too close, you may find you don't get through all layers as some shifting may occur. If you've sewn too far from the edge so that the gross grain will not cover your thread, feel free to trim to approx. 1/2" from your sew line.

    7. Cut (4)1.5" Gross Grain lengths to the height (2 pieces) and width (2 pieces), plus 2 inches. For example, the width is 42", so cut (2) 44" long pieces of gross grain. For a finished edge, fold the ends in, or heat seal with a candle or lighter.

    8. Fold Gross Grain in half (long ways, so the 1.5" gg is now 3/4" wide), pin pieces to corresponding perimeter edges of your quilt, and sew in place, being sure you are sewing through all layers. Sew two parallel lines for added durability.

    9. Use 36" of shock cord running through each of the short edges of your quilt channels. Sew one end of shock cord to the end of your channel, and use a cord lock at the other end for adjustment (Be sure to use a good knot on the end of the shock cord so it doesn't slip out of the cord lock). Alternately, you could put a cord lock on either end if you don't want to sew the shock cord in place. This will require two extra cord locks.

    10. Run the remainder of your shock cord through one long channel, and back through the other long channel. Slip the two loose ends through your last cordlock and tie a knot. (Heat seal your shock cord with a candle or lighter to keep the sheath from fraying.)

    11. Place the shock cord over the end knots of your hammock and use the cord lock to adjust. The under quilt will be able to slide back and forth along the channels for easy positioning.

    Notes: Insultex does not stuff well, but it does roll well. Fold and roll your quilt, rather than attempt to stuff it into a sack. This will save a lot of space.

    Currently, IX can be purchased here: TreeToTree Trail Gear
    In reading through the instructions, it looks like the inner layer of IX isn't compressed due to the differential 'bathtub' shape of the other layers; even though the perimeters end up all the same. This is a result of the darts, which, I think, you mentioned were needed.
    Last edited by Rat; 11-05-2010 at 14:46. Reason: The tumbnails dodn't copy over, but the link still works!
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  10. #50
    Senior Member scum's Avatar
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    Thanks. I appreciate the response!I've read it thoroughly, and you're right, it does answer the question of whether the inner layer of insultex will be compressed so no need for tweaking beyond the given instructions.

    However, my main concern is the how-to on sewing the differential cut. There's a difference of 4 inches between the inside and outside layers along the top/bot edges that need to be made up somewhere/somehow.

    In other words if I'm sewing on the top edge and start at a corner, when i get to the end of the edge at the next corner, the inside layer is going to be 4" short. Unless I pleat/bunch the outside layer somehow or split the difference and make the inside layer 2" short on each side?? Am I just worrying for no good reason and the 4" will easily work into the ~4 feet of edging?

    Sorry for being so dense on this, but I haven't sewn anything more complex than patch work for clothes. I'm sure it's painfully obvious to most but I just want to be sure to get it right. I'm really just looking for, 'don't be paranoid, let it bunch up a bit, sew it up and be done' or some other tip for getting it done better if one exists.

    Thanks!

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