Best Length for Tree Huggers?

**nickelanddime** · 12-01-2007, 11:11

Originally Posted by warbonnetguy

what if you just had 2 slots like the plastic ones on backpacks, the ones you can just pull? would it slip? did the origional have 3 slots or 2?

If you are making it with only 2 slots you need to shave down or offset the bar closest to the hammock so that the webbing to the tree puts more pressure on the extra underneath it, even then the thought of that one pressure point slipping makes me nervous(.=filler, -/\I=webbing, o=slider bar cross section: hope that made some since because my gallery pic doesn't show it very well) http://www.hammockforums.net/gallery.../8/webring.JPG

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**warbonnetguy** · 12-01-2007, 14:08

yeah, i was thinking about that too, they are not identical on the plastic ones either. the cc buckle takes a different approach. did somebody make a diy version on the buckle thread. that bar which you are talking about actually sldes down and helps with the pinching. or maybe making the whole buckle curved? that would probably be something that you would have to have milled though.

**Strapman** · 12-07-2007, 17:56

I have been getting allot of customers this last year that have spoken of this forum, and finally I had one send me a link to this site. I am continuously being asked for a length of webbing that is sewn with a loop on each end for a carabiner or to feed the webbing through. Of course this is to wrap around a tree to hang a hammock.
I have been putting some thought into this application. The only thing that worries me is the abrasion between the webbing and the tree. Though I believe that the Heavyweight Polypro will stand up for a while, I know that Polyester will hold up better. Neither "poly" will stretch when wet where nylon could.
I was just reminiscing with friends about camping trips we have taken, and it seems that every time we are subject to Murphy's Law. I could just see hanging out in a hammock and the swinging motion abrading the webbing just enough for it to snap. And of course it would be the head side that broke, because it wouldn't hurt as much for the feet to hit first. In any case, the 1" Polyester Webbing may be a smidgen overkill with a breaking strength of 4000# but it will protect your head better.
I have made a deal in the past with some other hammock campers, and I promised that as soon as I could find this forum, I would sign in and post this deal.
The deal I have been authorized to give is the price of the webbing plus $2.00 for all the cutting and double box X stitching on both ends. For this application using polyester webbing 1"x15' at $0.38/ft would run $5.70+$2.00=$7.70/strap. I can offer USPS Priority Flat Rate for $9.45 anywhere in the United States as long as you aren't ordering over half a dozen.
Ink Imprinting would be a nice option to personalize your strap to identify it as your own. The price would be $5 for setup & cleanup, and 50¢/ imprint. Keep in mind that if you want the ink imprint to show up, you will need a lighter color webbing (yellow would be the best for two reason. 1) the imprint will show up the best as the ink is black. 2) Yellow will be the easiest to see at night in the dark). The price doesn't include carabiners or any other hardware.
If you want to look at our carabiners they can be found at http://www.strapworks.com/Carabiners_s/29.htm

As a strap manufaturer I am open to answer any questions you might have.
-David

**Cannibal** · 12-07-2007, 18:18

Strapman, welcome.

I'm one of the many users of your products on this site. Very glad to have you here and thanks for your straps not dropping me on my butt!

**hangnout** · 12-07-2007, 18:29

The deal I have been authorized to give is the price of the webbing plus $2.00 for all the cutting and double box X stitching on both ends. For this application using polyester webbing 1"x15' at $0.38/ft would run $5.70+$2.00=$7.70/strap. I can offer USPS Priority Flat Rate for $9.45 anywhere in the United States as long as you aren't ordering over half a dozen.

Another satisfied customer!

You would not need to sew a loop on both ends of the 15' straps because they are usually used with rings or buckles when they are this long.

Most tree huggers would be in the 4 to 6 foot range then rope to the hammock. They would need loops in both ends.

**warbonnetguy** · 12-07-2007, 19:05

strapman welcome,
if you wrap the strap around the tree and pass one loop through the other, the webbing cinches tight on the tree, if done this way, the webbing will not be loose enough to slide at all and no abrasion should occur, similarly, when swinging in the hammock, none of the webbing actually touching the tree will move, there is actually so little friction involved that a slight swing will keep going for a long time.

you should offer lighter weight 1" polyester webbing, www.owfinc.com has a 1" polyester that is really nice, 2000# break strength and almost half the weight of your 3500#. (6.125 g/ft). it's ideal for hammocks.

speaking of ideal, why don't you guys get some light weight spectra webbing made, the weakest i've seen it is around 5000#. if you had it made with a 1500-2000# it would be alot lighter than even the owf webbing. i've noticed there is hardly any selection of high tech fiber webbing online, it would be a good option to have.

so why do you use the box stitch and not the bar tack like is done on climbing webbing?

thanks for popping in.

Brandon

**headchange4u** · 12-07-2007, 19:20

Originally Posted by warbonnetguy

so why do you use the box stitch and not the bar tack like is done on climbing webbing?

Brandon

There was an article on BPL that compared different stitches and the double "x" box proved to be the best stitch. The the bar tack stitch didn't hold up as well because of so many needle holes, creating a perforation. The tests were performed on reinforcement patches, like on the corner of a tarp.

I like using the bar tack on webbing. When I make loops on my suspension straps I use a double "x" box with a bar tack on the top and bottom of the box. Like you said , they us the bar tack on climbing gear, so it must be a strong stitch.

**TeeDee** · 12-07-2007, 19:44

Originally Posted by warbonnetguy

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speaking of ideal, why don't you guys get some light weight spectra webbing made, the weakest i've seen it is around 5000#. if you had it made with a 1500-2000# it would be alot lighter than even the owf webbing. i've noticed there is hardly any selection of high tech fiber webbing online, it would be a good option to have.

..............

Brandon

I second Brandon's request. Some lightweight spectra webbing in the 1500# to 2000# range would be a lot better than polyester. Granted it would be more expensive, but then for tree huggers, the price could still be affordable. I'll bet spectra would last longer too, which would help with the price.

Heck I would even like some 1/2" wide spectra webbing. That would be ideal for a Bridge Hammock. would help with the weight of the Bridge Hammock whipping.

**slowhike** · 12-07-2007, 20:59

Originally Posted by headchange4u

There was an article on BPL that compared different stitches and the double "x" box proved to be the best stitch. The the bar tack stitch didn't hold up as well because of so many needle holes, creating a perforation. The tests were performed on reinforcement patches, like on the corner of a tarp.

I like using the bar tack on webbing. When I make loops on my suspension straps I use a double "x" box with a bar tack on the top and bottom of the box. Like you said , they us the bar tack on climbing gear, so it must be a strong stitch.

the test on BPL.com was sewing a heavier material to a very light weight material... for instance sewing a webbing shoulder strap to a silnylon backpack.
the box & X stitch proved better in that situation because it was easier on the light weight material & less likely to cut it like you said.

i still think (IMO) the bar tack is best for sewing webbing to webbing.